Official 280 Sundancer Thread

SAshton said:
SAshton said:
Just got my 04 280 and today I put on battery 1 and started the starboard eng and then tried the port but it jut clicked. Then I switched to. Both and it started? Why did one eng start and not the other? On batt 2 they both started. weird??
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You have 2 banks of batteries for that boat. Starboard and genny on a single battery. Port and house on the 2 bat. side, designated on the switch as 1,2 and both.
So it sounds like bat. #1 is dead on the 2 battery bank
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So I have narrowed the issue down to the aft EIM in the bilge ... nothing noted on that EIM is working. All of the breaker buttons are pushed in and there is power getting to the board. Are there actually fuses inside that board? thoughts? Thanks.
 
SAshton said:
Why would the starboard engine start on batt 1 then if it were dead? Confusing.
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Notice you have 2 battery switches, side by side. Starboard engine is not even wired to the 1,2,both switch, works off the switch next to it
 
That makes sense. So I have to load test to find the bad one. Now I need water depth. My ray marine C70 doesn't have it and I turned on the depth on smart craft and it doesn't say anything and water temp is -31 lol. Are the 2 linked and maybe I need a new transducer? Or don't have it and need to add
 
When I'm anchored what's my best bet for the battery switches? Left is 1,2,all and off. Rt is on and off
 
Best to replace that bank as a pair. Depends on how much power your using on the hook. If you don't have a smartcraft manual, you can probably google it on line
 
NautiBuoy said:
Electrical problems? Got to my boat and the blower, cockpit lights, anchor, bildge pump, aft acc, don't work. But the arch lights, radio, water all work. None of the breakers where the switches are were tripped nor any by the helm. I went to the circuit breaker in the bilge and the blower was indeed tripped. I pushed back in and still not working. I shut everything iff and powered up still not working. Engines start without any issues. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Sounds like the EIM in the bilge. Had the same thing happen. Not fun and very expensive.
 
NautiBuoy said:
So I have narrowed the issue down to the aft EIM in the bilge ... nothing noted on that EIM is working. All of the breaker buttons are pushed in and there is power getting to the board. Are there actually fuses inside that board? thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Please post where you find one and the cost. I payed 500.00 for mine at MM
 
NautiBuoy said:
So I have narrowed the issue down to the aft EIM in the bilge ... nothing noted on that EIM is working. All of the breaker buttons are pushed in and there is power getting to the board. Are there actually fuses inside that board? thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Sure wish there was a fix to hardwire everything to toggles and get rid of the EIM's. No place for that kind of system on a boat.
 
I need advice on a new problem that has cropped up. My bilge blower switch is acting strangely. It started with not being able to turn the blowers on using that switch. I went to the power panel in the cabin and since I have a genny, I have a blower switch in that panel. I was able to turn the blowers on at that location. I went to the instrument panel and pressed a couple of the surrounding switches and the blower switch seemed to come back to life. For the rest of the day I was able to turn the blowers on and off as usual. Today I had the blowers on while underway, and on arrival at my slip I couldn't turn them off. I had to do it from the power panel again. Any ideas on what can be going wrong? I know it has to be more than a simple switch replacement, considering the panel switches are "computerized".
 
Danny Troy said:
I need advice on a new problem that has cropped up. My bilge blower switch is acting strangely. It started with not being able to turn the blowers on using that switch. I went to the power panel in the cabin and since I have a genny, I have a blower switch in that panel. I was able to turn the blowers on at that location. I went to the instrument panel and pressed a couple of the surrounding switches and the blower switch seemed to come back to life. For the rest of the day I was able to turn the blowers on and off as usual. Today I had the blowers on while underway, and on arrival at my slip I couldn't turn them off. I had to do it from the power panel again. Any ideas on what can be going wrong? I know it has to be more than a simple switch replacement, considering the panel switches are "computerized".
Click to expand...

It can be one of 3 things. The switch pad, the EIM, or the module on the side wall under the dash that both switch pads and the cabin blower switch plugs into. Does the trim tabs work when the blower switch pad don't ? If they do most likely not pad.
 
gsmallwood said:
It can be one of 3 things. The switch pad, the EIM, or the module on the side wall under the dash that both switch pads and the cabin blower switch plugs into. Does the trim tabs work when the blower switch pad don't ? If they do most likely not pad.
Click to expand...
I wasn't able to test that, since I was already in my slip when I tried to turn them off. I'll check that this week. I'm glad to be able to turn them on and off by the switch panel blower switch. Does the fact that the switch in the cabin works give any clues as to which part is bad?
 
I had the same exact problem. Then a little later the little green light would no longer turn on to indicate my blowers were running. It turned out to be the switch pad.

Then a year later the starboard switch pad started to act all crazy!

Both replaced now and all good, except for the wallet. $350.00 or so each if I recall.

Tom
 
Gunn said:
I had the same exact problem. Then a little later the little green light would no longer turn on to indicate my blowers were running. It turned out to be the switch pad.

Then a year later the starboard switch pad started to act all crazy!

Both replaced now and all good, except for the wallet. $350.00 or so each if I recall.

Tom
Click to expand...

So you have an '03 also, and needed to replace both. I guess I should consider myself lucky that it lasted until now. I'll try the switch-pad first, since it's the cheapest fix. Hopefully I'll be able to return it if it doesn't fix the problem.
 
Looking to upgrade the 04 TV/DVD to an ac/DC flat screen with DVD combo. Any ideas on correct size and which mount is best?
 
Also maybe clarion stereo that has aux or Bluetooth but want to keep the remote at the helm. What works?
 
Hi

I found the port over the galley has been leaking (water runs down the back of the microwave and out under the fridge onto the carpet), and after a lot of googling the unit appeared to be a Bomar 'Flagship' unit.

I called Bomar and they confirmed that Searay did purchase the 561 model (which is a version of the Flagship of the same size) around that time, and new seals for it are part number P100-32 @ $20 each. I have ordered a couple as I was on the phone to them and they were very helpful, but they did also say that the seal is not actual a complete molded piece (as I had presumed it was), but made up from a length of gasket strip with the two ends bonded together, and I see that you can buy Bomar gasket by the length online so I am sure it would be easy to make a new gasket either from a length of their or a generic gasket strip of an appropriate size.

Anyway hope that helps someone.

Anthony
 
When underway am I supposed to close the a/c sea cock? I have always left it open the 3 times I've been out since I got her. Kind of a pain if that's the case
 
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