Official 280 Sundancer Thread

2014 sd 280...the step going down into the sleeping/kitchen area is fiberglass/plastic. I want to change this step to a teak version similar to what comes on the 330 SD... Has anyone done this...not sure if to order stop from another model, get one custom made, or maybe cover with flexiteak II...open to any suggestion...pictures would be great.
 
Has anyone had a problem with low engine temperature?
I recently got into the shallows and sucked up some sand. The engine began running with a low temp
it turned out some sand was keeping the thermostat open
I cleaned it out and is good as new
i hope this can help someone else with the same problem
 
gerryb said:
I would also recommend you check the mounting points and possibly reinforce them with some ss washers or a piece of ss metal across the bracket.
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Yes, it's pretty amazing that they elected to use a couple of wood screws on each side, to hold all that weight. For liability purposes you would think nuts and bolts would have been used.
 
Is there any other place other than say Marine Max to order a new port switch pad. I didn't know if there were a place that repairs them. Marine Max is the Sea Ray dealer here in Ga.
 
Hello everyone, almost new 280 owner-
it took most of the summer but I finnally finished reading this thread! Lots of great information. Thanks to everyone that has contributed! We purchased our 2002 280 in June and I've already used a lot of tips and suggestions from this site to get through our first season and fix a few random issues. Nothing big thankfully and we are loving the boat. I'm relatively new to boating (4 years) but so far I'm very happy with the single 8.1-BIII for our needs on the river. It gets right up with no trim and has plenty of room around it for service. Since that topic keeps coming up I thought I'd mention it. Another interesting point is that we have the aluminum track and 4 balls under the cabin door, not the trucks. Not sure if they were replaced by a PO but that is what it has. The track attached to the bottom of the door cam loose and the door fell off the track just after we bought it. After reading this forum I was able to remove it all for cleaning and re-attached with better hardware. It's good for now but I may re-enforce it this winter just to make sure it stays put. Hopefully I can pay it forward with some help here going forward. Thanks again.
 
gsmallwood said:
Is there any other place other than say Marine Max to order a new port switch pad. I didn't know if there were a place that repairs them. Marine Max is the Sea Ray dealer here in Ga.
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You can contact another Sea Ray dealer. The OEM for the switchpad, Digital Switching Systems, does not sell direct. Unless you find one on ebay or Flounder Pounder you will have to buy from a dealer.

Give Hall Marine a call if you don't like Marine Max. They have locations in Savannah, Charleston and Greenville.
http://www.hallmarine.com/Page.aspx/pageId/120130/Locations.aspx
 
I ordered mine from Prince William Marine in Virginia, look them up online.
 
Synthetic teak for head in 2014 sea ray sundancer 280? I hope I am posting this in the right place. Does anyone know where Sea Ray sources the optional teak flooring for head in 2014 280. I was wondering if to order from flexiteak or just order from sea ray.

Also, any ideas on how to replace fiberglass/plastic step-down into galley with a wood teak version like the ones in the 330s and above?
 
armentb said:
I hope I am posting this in the right place.
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While you may be able to get answers to general questions in this thread about your boat, the latest model 280 is a completely different model than what is primarily discussed here, which is the 2001-2009 280DA.

The thread geared more toward your boat is here. http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/26015-The-official-2009-270DA-2010-280DA-thread

armentb said:
Also, any ideas on how to replace fiberglass/plastic step-down into galley with a wood teak version like the ones in the 330s and above?
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To answer your latest question; Contact Goodale Marine. They have done a lot of OEM work for Sea Ray and can certainly help you. They do top notch work at a reasonable price. http://goodalemarine.com/steps/
 
MichaelRaasch said:
My starboard engine is smoking during warmup. Definitely appears to be excess fuel during warmup causing the smoke. It is also idling ruff during warmup. Any ideas what could cause this? I replaced the fuel filter and IAC filter and that did not resolve the issue. Its a 2005 280 with twin 5.0's. After it warms up it clears up and idles fine. I'm thinking the choke mechanism is malfunctioning but not sure.
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scoflaw said:
That's 1 of the symptoms of a plugged fuel pressure regulator from paint chips from the cf3. Check your fuel pressure at the rail, if its high that's your issue. Normal is 43
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I finally figured out the issue. Scoflaw was 100% correct. There was factory mercury paint clogging the fuel regulator on the cool fuel 3. Finally my engine runs so much better.

Now I have to put my new Carlisle HBA12 (Hydraulic Brake Actuator that costed $600) on the trailer so that I can go to Lake Powell this weekend.
 
My first post to Club Sea Ray: Our offer on a 2001 280 Sundancer with T 4.3 with accepted yesterday. We're pretty excited by our first big boy boat. The inspection will take place in a week and a half. Any advice on particular areas the inspector should look at? He is certified but I don't know how much he knows about 280's. No generator or heat/a.c. so that simplifies matters.
 
Water intrusion into the cabin was a problem on my 280. Pull the mid berth cushions and look for evidence of staining. Also check for moisture in the carpet in the area of the main power panel.
 
Electrical problems? Got to my boat and the blower, cockpit lights, anchor, bildge pump, aft acc, don't work. But the arch lights, radio, water all work. None of the breakers where the switches are were tripped nor any by the helm. I went to the circuit breaker in the bilge and the blower was indeed tripped. I pushed back in and still not working. I shut everything iff and powered up still not working. Engines start without any issues. Thoughts?
 
NautiBuoy said:
Electrical problems? Got to my boat and the blower, cockpit lights, anchor, bildge pump, aft acc, don't work. But the arch lights, radio, water all work. None of the breakers where the switches are were tripped nor any by the helm. I went to the circuit breaker in the bilge and the blower was indeed tripped. I pushed back in and still not working. I shut everything iff and powered up still not working. Engines start without any issues. Thoughts?
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Did you check the mini breakers in the EIMs? Have you had thunderstorms since you last used the boat? Near miss lightening strikes have been known to zap the EIM circuit boards.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
Did you check the mini breakers in the EIMs? Have you had thunderstorms since you last used the boat? Near miss lightening strikes have been known to zap the EIM circuit boards.

Henry
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Hi Henry - what are the mini breakers in the EIMs? I pushed the "buttons" back in
 
Do they make something to repair or cover the black rubber bottom on the carpets that flakes and makes a mess?
 
Just got my 04 280 and today I put on battery 1 and started the starboard eng and then tried the port but it jut clicked. Then I switched to. Both and it started? Why did one eng start and not the other? On batt 2 they both started. Weird???
 
SAshton said:
Just got my 04 280 and today I put on battery 1 and started the starboard eng and then tried the port but it jut clicked. Then I switched to. Both and it started? Why did one eng start and not the other? On batt 2 they both started. weird??
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Also the steering wheel is a little off center. Is this adjusted easily by Removing center emblem and the little nut?
 
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