Official 280 Sundancer Thread

I am looking for a way to get 12 volt key activated power at the helm. What wire is the best tap for that? It will be to run the NEMA network. Any input would help.
Thanks
 
My 2006 280 Sundancer does not have a depth sounder. What is a good brand and should I go with the in hull or through hull version. I will be doing install my self but not sure if the in hull will work through the fiberglass. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
66pony said:
I am looking for a way to get 12 volt key activated power at the helm. What wire is the best tap for that? It will be to run the NEMA network. Any input would help.
Thanks
Click to expand...

The only circuit on the 280 that is controlled by the key is the ignition system. If you are doing electronics you can tap into one of unused the ACC circuits off the forward EIM and have control via dash board when battery switch is on.

Henry

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Thanks Henry,

I was hoping to get something that would only be on when the Ignition was on, and do it automatically. The next resort is to run wiring from the ignition switch to the helm.
 
sedboatman said:
My 2006 280 Sundancer does not have a depth sounder. What is a good brand and should I go with the in hull or through hull version. I will be doing install my self but not sure if the in hull will work through the fiberglass. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

I'd recommend a through hull transducer. The in hulls use a container about the size of a coffee can that gets the open end glued to the bilge. The transducer is suspended from the top and the whole thing gets filled with mineral oil. The thing is sooner or later they leak making a mess in the bilge and leaving you with no depth gauge.

The type you choose depends on your use. If you want basic depth that's one choice, you want fish finding and there are more.

Finally there's the issue of integration with existing electronics, or future things.

You might give the folks at BOE a call.

You might also consider using a multi function display that gives you GPS and charts.
A good illustration is something like the Garmin 421 that has built in GPS and chat plotting and with a transducer will provide depth. I'm not recommending the 421, just using it as an illustration of an inexpensive solution.

Henry




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Nmea 2000 power is supposed to have its own separate fused switched supply. Personally I would keep it separate sometimes you want the systems on to chart a course etc withoug having the ignition switches on draining battery, or if there is a problem with the engine electical system you find yourself unable to even know your position etc.
 
I never turn my ignition switches off while I'm on the boat. With the switches on, what would be draining the batteries? Never had an issue. I also have a very small first aid kit.
 
Last edited:
scoflaw said:
I never turn my ignition switches off while I'm on the boat. With the switches on, what would be draining the batteries? Never had an issue. How large is your first aid kit?
Click to expand...

When you say "Ignition Switches" are you talking about the AFT Ignition Switches (keyed) or the Ignition Switches on the helm?
 
Keyed, I keep the toggles off, but always wondered what the downside of leaving the toggle that powers my sounder on.
 
I went to my Marina and they got me one from Sea Ray, come to find out, mine worked after all. What a hitch...
 
I'm having a problem with my bilge pump
the light is on at the helm
can anyone explain how the wiring runs
 
Hey Everyone,

I'm getting a "non critical engine alarm" for "Engine Trim Sensor." When i click more info it reads engine trim sensor not working properly. Its only the starboard engine and only comes on when I go above 4,000 RPM's or make a sharper turn. Anyone have experience with this?
 
TheBigb said:
Hey Everyone,

I'm getting a "non critical engine alarm" for "Engine Trim Sensor." When i click more info it reads engine trim sensor not working properly. Its only the starboard engine and only comes on when I go above 4,000 RPM's or make a sharper turn. Anyone have experience with this?
Click to expand...


Not the most technical guy here, as I always profess... but I have had a similar issue with one of my drives. The wires to the engine trim sensor got pinched and it stopped working. Perhaps yours is getting something similar when you turn in one direction.
 
TheBigb said:
Hey Everyone,

I'm getting a "non critical engine alarm" for "Engine Trim Sensor." When i click more info it reads engine trim sensor not working properly. Its only the starboard engine and only comes on when I go above 4,000 RPM's or make a sharper turn. Anyone have experience with this?
Click to expand...

This happens on my 290 as well... In fact, I can pretty much predict when it's going to happen. I just ignore it.
 
First post about the possible first boat. I am looking at a 2006 280DA with twin 4.3 Bravo III's with 242hrs. I am in the process of getting the survey done and next week is the sea trial. My surveyor happened to look at the boat today out of the water. Mentioned some corrosion on the Bravo III's and suggest I may want someone to look at it. I understand corrosion is normal and I will wait until the survey is completed to see if there are any other possible issues.

My question... is corrosion something you accept and repair yourself if minor or is this something you negotiate further or have them repair prior to taking the boat? We have come to an agreement on price already and curious on what the normal expectation is when purchasing. I am excited about a boat and a 280DA at less than $50k, original asking price was $65k but no genny. I am not excited about bringing out another thousand if I don't need to. I know I will have to do that eventually.
 
AU1N04 said:
First post about the possible first boat. I am looking at a 2006 280DA with twin 4.3 Bravo III's with 242hrs. I am in the process of getting the survey done and next week is the sea trial. My surveyor happened to look at the boat today out of the water. Mentioned some corrosion on the Bravo III's and suggest I may want someone to look at it. I understand corrosion is normal and I will wait until the survey is completed to see if there are any other possible issues.

My question... is corrosion something you accept and repair yourself if minor or is this something you negotiate further or have them repair prior to taking the boat? We have come to an agreement on price already and curious on what the normal expectation is when purchasing. I am excited about a boat and a 280DA at less than $50k, original asking price was $65k but no genny. I am not excited about bringing out another thousand if I don't need to. I know I will have to do that eventually.
Click to expand...

Minor corrosion happens and should be addressed through preventive maintenance before it becomes a major problem. Can you post a photo of the drives? That will help us to better guide you.
 
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