Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[ZZ13]

Added a TV in the Cockpit. I've attached a couple of shots. Let me know if you're interested in the details. I'm very happy with how it turned out.

We've been interested in doing the same on our 300DA. Where did you get the mount? I'd need one of those. How did you connect up a signal (antenna)? I'd need to do that. I'd just want to tap into my Glomex antenna signal. Also, how is it during the day and at night? We prototyped one just by setting it on the shelf under the radar arch base and we were disappointed. During the day we essentially couldn't make out the picture. During the night, bugs in this area flocked to it (I am just down the river from you). We had to turn off the TV and leave the helm for a while until the bugs left. We decided we'd only be able to watch it at night with full canvas on. Maybe the cheapo TV we tried wasn't the right one for outdoors.

 

[Woody]

I worked on my rub rail leak today. I took the metal insert out but did not take the rub rail base off. I removed each screw and injected caulk into every screw hole for both the base and insert. I didn’t like what I saw, it’s a wonder I didn’t have leaks sooner. Maybe I did and didn’t realize what the source was. I do get some water in the bilge, not much, if it rains a lot. I have extra, improperly positioned screw holes partially and some completely drilled. A couple of these holes were not even covered with caulk. I have my doubts that a few screws were ever caulked. The hole positions some time overlap each other. One countersunk hole in the base must have been a problem in the factory because of course I put a screw in it only to find out the insert hole was dead center on it. I filled it with caulk for now, will have to take it all apart and fix later. Several stripped screws in the base(or is the wood backer rotted) I don’t know at this point. I got my fingers crossed that I stopped the leak for the season but my confidence is low. I dread thinking of what I’ll find under the rub rail base. In any case I see a bigger, more thorough job ahead.

This reminds me of the first day I got my boat…water was leaking into the aft berth. We found that some of the windshield mount screws were never caulked and some were missing and the open holes were there. Ya, Ya, I know they are made by hand… but do they realize how many problems, how much unnecessary work is generated, how much money is wasted messing with this stuff…all do to not putting a hole in the right location, not caulking or not actually putting a screw in after they drill a hole. I’m still wondering were they found the 2 foot long screw that speared my AC duct.

 

[RichardB]

:smt038I would love to hear the details! Looks great!

 

[Shtmetal]

I have a 2007 280 with the single 496 and it gets on plane fine with 4 adults. Last weekend I had 7 adults on board and it struggled a little getting on plane but once on top it cruised fine

 

[Shtmetal]

What is your normal cruise speed/rpm and gph on your 280 with the 496 mag

 

[mpmiller]

My TV installation has gathered some interest, so I thought I would share some of the details. There are basically 4 components, the mount, the TV, the antenna connection and the audio connection.

The Mount - I purchased this mount from my SR dealer. It is two pieces a base and stand. The stand just sits in the base and can be removed easily for storage below deck. I also had a sunbrella cover made for the TV which doubles as my storage bag.

The TV - The TV I purchased is a NAXA 2252. The TV is 12V and 110V, so I have both options. I tend to run off of 12V and currently just use the lighter outlet at the helm. I thought about direct wiring to an EIM ACC or adding an additional 12V socket, but I appreciate the clean look when the TV is stored. The TV is great, but it does get glare. I have ordered an anti-glare film from NuShield and will post my results.

The antenna connection - This was the hardest part of the entire installation. It would be really easy to split the signal right off of the glomex antenna, but I wanted the signal the current post amplifier/splitter. My first attempt involved removing the glomex switch, which had zero slack and afforded no access. Then I tried removing the refrigerator, which provided no access. The next step would be to remove all of the galley cabinets, which I elected not to do. (I swear the entire galley was built around this single switch) The next option, that I used, was to split the signal behind the cabin TV. Installed a splitter and fished the coax to space below the helm. Luckily I already had fishing tape in place from when I installed the cabin TV inverter. This run is not easy. I then removed the EIM drilled the hole under the outlet and installed the coax wall plate. Having fishing tape in these runs is invaluable, so if you ever make a run, leave a spare.

The sound - I wanted to be able to get sound to my cockpit speakers. I chose two options. The first was to enable the 1/8th inch audio jack from the helm. This was disabled when I installed the Garmin XM Satelite in the 740s. To readable this I ordered a line-level auto switch and installed next to the head unit. For the second option, I enabled the iPod adapter with BlueTooth, by installing a BlueTooth receiver. This has the doubled benefit of allowing my to stream Pandora from my iPhone. To be honest, we mostly just use the TV speakers.

PM me if you need more specifics or model numbers.

Also, here are a couple of my other favorite mods I can post details on.

3 color LED lights in Cockpit. (two types)
BlueTooth receiver for Audio System.
Installed inverter for Cabin TV, installed Wii.
Installed new head unit for Cabin TV, turned boat into 2-zone system.
Replaced Cabin Lights with LED.
Flush Mounted Garmin Touchscreen Chartplotter, installed radar.
BBQ mount under swim ladder.
Various teak inlays.

 

[Danny Troy]

The antenna connection - This was the hardest part of the entire installation. It would be really easy to split the signal right off of the glomex antenna, but I wanted the signal the current post amplifier/splitter. My first attempt involved removing the glomex switch, which had zero slack and afforded no access. Then I tried removing the refrigerator, which provided no access. The next step would be to remove all of the galley cabinets, which I elected not to do. (I swear the entire galley was built around this single switch) The next option, that I used, was to split the signal behind the cabin TV. Installed a splitter and fished the coax to space below the helm. Luckily I already had fishing tape in place from when I installed the cabin TV inverter. This run is not easy. I then removed the EIM drilled the hole under the outlet and installed the coax wall plate. Having fishing tape in these runs is invaluable, so if you ever make a run, leave a spare.

I had that same problem. Totally impossible to fish anything to the Glomex switch. I guess it's in the same location on yours as it is on my '03. I also put the splitter in the TV cabinet and fished a line back to where I have the TV mounted in the cockpit.

Also, I found the hole for fishing cables, which is located somewhere behind the head, to be small and fills up quickly after you add a few cables. I wish Sea Ray had more foresight when making that hole. I don't think I can get one more cable the size of RG6 fished through that hole. Hopefully I'll never have the need.

 

[gsmallwood]

One of my tach's bounces up and down some. I have read that you can move the switch on the back between 4 , 6, or 8 cy and this might correct the problem. Where exactly is this on the tach? I cannot feel it by reaching up to the tach.

 

[src]

It is set flush on the back of the tach, and if you can't see it, don't turn it. You need to make sure you put it back into the right position when you are done.

 

[trdehmer]

Well crap, had mine all apart tonight to make sure the pins were not corroded. They were fine, put some dielectric grease on the pins and mine still bounces up/down. Guess I can try switching between 4, 6, 8 and see if that fixes the issue.

My next issue is my water temp gauge - it works on/off and the night nav light no longer works for it. Can it be sent anywhere for repair? Or does any place sell new ones to match my 2003 unit?

 

[SurferRI]

I have a similar issue where my Starboard Tach is showing about 5900-6000 RPM when it is really about 3400 which is what the Port is reading. This matches up with the speed. I'm curious as well how to solve these tach issues.

 

[LiL Nauti]

My TV installation has gathered some interest, so I thought I would share some of the details. There are basically 4 components, the mount, the TV, the antenna connection and the audio connection.

The Mount - I purchased this mount from my SR dealer. It is two pieces a base and stand. The stand just sits in the base and can be removed easily for storage below deck. I also had a sunbrella cover made for the TV which doubles as my storage bag.

The TV - The TV I purchased is a NAXA 2252. The TV is 12V and 110V, so I have both options. I tend to run off of 12V and currently just use the lighter outlet at the helm. I thought about direct wiring to an EIM ACC or adding an additional 12V socket, but I appreciate the clean look when the TV is stored. The TV is great, but it does get glare. I have ordered an anti-glare film from NuShield and will post my results.

The antenna connection - This was the hardest part of the entire installation. It would be really easy to split the signal right off of the glomex antenna, but I wanted the signal the current post amplifier/splitter. My first attempt involved removing the glomex switch, which had zero slack and afforded no access. Then I tried removing the refrigerator, which provided no access. The next step would be to remove all of the galley cabinets, which I elected not to do. (I swear the entire galley was built around this single switch) The next option, that I used, was to split the signal behind the cabin TV. Installed a splitter and fished the coax to space below the helm. Luckily I already had fishing tape in place from when I installed the cabin TV inverter. This run is not easy. I then removed the EIM drilled the hole under the outlet and installed the coax wall plate. Having fishing tape in these runs is invaluable, so if you ever make a run, leave a spare.

The sound - I wanted to be able to get sound to my cockpit speakers. I chose two options. The first was to enable the 1/8th inch audio jack from the helm. This was disabled when I installed the Garmin XM Satelite in the 740s. To readable this I ordered a line-level auto switch and installed next to the head unit. For the second option, I enabled the iPod adapter with BlueTooth, by installing a BlueTooth receiver. This has the doubled benefit of allowing my to stream Pandora from my iPhone. To be honest, we mostly just use the TV speakers.

PM me if you need more specifics or model numbers.

Also, here are a couple of my other favorite mods I can post details on.

3 color LED lights in Cockpit. (two types)
BlueTooth receiver for Audio System.
Installed inverter for Cabin TV, installed Wii.
Installed new head unit for Cabin TV, turned boat into 2-zone system.
Replaced Cabin Lights with LED.
Flush Mounted Garmin Touchscreen Chartplotter, installed radar.
BBQ mount under swim ladder.
Various teak inlays.

Wanting to switch to LED's in the cockpit, heard it's not enough light... How many "LED's" in one light, and does it provide the same or more light than original? I saw a surface mount at West Marine for $19.99 and the lights could be switched from white to red if one wanted (4 white LED's & 4 Red LED's). Guess I could just do it for $20 and see what it does... Also saw 16 LED light for the Radar Arch, but no "reviews" if it produced adequate lighting... Usually LED's especially in flashlights just don't have any balls...

 

[mpmiller]

My 2009 came with LEDs from the factory, but they were single color. I don't think the cheaper LEDs will get you what you want. I installed the i2Systems Apeiron A3120 (from Jim @ BOE) in the arch, they are tri-color and shed plenty of light. The other cockpit lights I installed were direct OEM replacements from ITC marine. (69660-SS-RBW). I have not tested the ITC lights at night for brightness. The color switching is really nice, we use blue most often (less bugs and easier on the eyes) and red if necessary when underway. I will take pictures of both and post. The following are quick pictures of the blue with flash and without, the white is just as bright as the OEM LEDs.

 

[themikehyde]

I purchased LED's from superbrightleds.com. I tried several colors and the vote seemed to be in favor of the blue (4211-B6), they are 6 LED Festoons and seem plenty bright for the arch and cockpit. The LED's also do not seem to draw bugs as much.

 

[trdehmer]

So the part number you listed below is a direct replacement for the OEM bulbs in the cockpit and arch? I have a 2003 280DA.

I purchased LED's from superbrightleds.com. I tried several colors and the vote seemed to be in favor of the blue (4211-B6), they are 6 LED Festoons and seem plenty bright for the arch and cockpit. The LED's also do not seem to draw bugs as much.

 

[themikehyde]

They were direct replacement, in my 2001.

 

[trdehmer]

Did you install the Apeiron lights in addition to keeping the OEM cockpit lights? Do the bezels go right where the OEM ones were mounted?

My 2009 came with LEDs from the factory, but they were single color. I don't think the cheaper LEDs will get you what you want. I installed the i2Systems Apeiron A3120 (from Jim @ BOE) in the arch, they are tri-color and shed plenty of light. The other cockpit lights I installed were direct OEM replacements from ITC marine. (69660-SS-RBW). I have not tested the ITC lights at night for brightness. The color switching is really nice, we use blue most often (less bugs and easier on the eyes) and red if necessary when underway. I will take pictures of both and post. The following are quick pictures of the blue with flash and without, the white is just as bright as the OEM LEDs.

View attachment 30793

View attachment 30794

 

[trdehmer]

What LED lights work for the NAV lights? The same 4211 bulbs from Superbrightleds.com?

 

[mpmiller]

I replaced the OEM lights. Easy install, just had to make the holes a bit larger.

 

[themikehyde]

I actually had ordered 2 1142-W2-WV's also. I think I must have planned on those for the masthead light, but not sure. I will have to check next time I get to the boat.