Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Hello Everyone:

I put our 280 in on Thursday, and yesterday I've noticed that when I turn on the water pump switch at the dash pad, that the pump is cycling frequently, and warm water is coming out the water heater purge thru-hull fitting when pump is on. Does this mean that the heater's pressure relief valve is bad, or ? Pump is cycling way too much.
 
Sundance280 said:
Hello Everyone:

I put our 280 in on Thursday, and yesterday I've noticed that when I turn on the water pump switch at the dash pad, that the pump is cycling frequently, and warm water is coming out the water heater purge thru-hull fitting when pump is on. Does this mean that the heater's pressure relief valve is bad, or ? Pump is cycling way too much.
Click to expand...
The valve is not seated or has debris blocking it. Did you snap it open and close a few times?
 
If it's bad you need to go to an RV store for repalcement. HD or Lowes doesn't have it.
 
OK, I'm making good headway, getting the boat ready for the warm weather. Today I installed a permanent bypass system for the hot water heater, and added a 3-way valve on the input side. Also did away with some of the plastic Sea Tech connectors, and replaced them with brass. This should make winterizing a breeze. I also installed a new genny impeller today. Not a moment too soon, since the impeller was in really bad shape. I was lucky to find the broken pieces without too much of a hassle.

Now for the big job. Has anyone done a water pump impeller on a 496 Bravo III? I took a good look at the pump today, and I don't think Merc could have picked a worse location if they tried. I read one procedure, where it's done from the front, and the hoses stay connected. Not sure if it was the same engine though, but doing it from the front end definitely looks easier. Anyone have any ideas on this, other that "take it to a mechanic"?
 
Has anybody removed the lower two plastic (imitation wood grain) dash panels from a 280? I need to remove the panel furthest to starboard. I am sure they have plastic catches as there are no visible screws. I have tugged on the panel a little but would prefer to remove it without breaking it.
 
Danny Troy said:
OK, I'm making good headway, getting the boat ready for the warm weather. Today I installed a permanent bypass system for the hot water heater, and added a 3-way valve on the input side. Also did away with some of the plastic Sea Tech connectors, and replaced them with brass.
Click to expand...

I would love, love to see a picture or two of what you did here! I use a temporary setup of Sea Tech elbow connectors and the PEX tubing to create a bypass for winterizing the fresh water system. I was just down there last weekend staring at the water heater trying to come up with a way to make a permanent bypass with valves. There's not a lot of room to work with, but it is doable. I'd like to see what you did, if possible.

Tom
 
Hi all, I would like to go back to the constant water pumping cycling. Mine will not turn off. There are no visible leaks, the strainer is clean. I get good water pressure. Tried tapping the pump with a screwdriver to no avail. Any other thoughts? All the faucets, showers, etc are closed tightly. This is driving me crazy. I know I haven't updated my signature yet, but the boat is a 2006 280 Sundancer. On another note....does anyone have humming coming from their stereo? Thanks for the help...
 
I had this problem once the very first spring I was commissioning the boat. I couldn't find any leaks either to cause the pump to continuously run. What ended up working was to fill the freshwater tank full. Then the pump quit running. Never had the problem since though. Pump only runs after a couple seconds of the water running.

If you had removed any water lines near the water heater to bypass it for winterizing, check those fittings again. Maybe give them a squeeze together. Sometimes even though it won't leak, it will let air get into the system which won't let the pressure build to the cutoff pressure.
 
searay495 said:
Hi all, I would like to go back to the constant water pumping cycling. Mine will not turn off. There are no visible leaks, the strainer is clean. I get good water pressure. Tried tapping the pump with a screwdriver to no avail. Any other thoughts? All the faucets, showers, etc are closed tightly. This is driving me crazy. I know I haven't updated my signature yet, but the boat is a 2006 280 Sundancer. On another note....does anyone have humming coming from their stereo? Thanks for the help...
Click to expand...

Also check the connection at the top of the water tank. Sometimes the guys winterizing the water system will disconnect it there and stick the pipe into a gal of antifreeze.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. It started after I filled the tank, but will run dry and try again. One other question, I need to replace the Sealand holding tank filter. Seems like they come in different sizes, 5/8, etc. I assume this is the thread size. Anyone know what the 2006 280 Sunancer uses?
Thanks again.
 
There are also instructions available here somewhere for refilling your existing one. It was posted by former member Presentation, IIRC.
 
Ok....I have checked, rechecked, tightened, retightened and even took the pump apart......the damn thing won't stop running. I can not find a leak anywhere!! I am thinking about taking it to a marina, but what are they going to do that I haven't already, and at what cost to find a leak?! Very frustrating...still open for suggestions. Also, what are you all using for batteries that won't break the bank? I have a Costco and a Walmart available to me. I have three batteries. Thanks for helping out.
 
How is the water pressure? Do you get a lot of air mixed in with water at the sink? If so it is sucking air between the tank and the pump. Otherwise possible the impeller or check valve at the pump.
 
OK, for anyone who cares. Took the pump apart. Not really sure of what I was looking for. Put it back together, same thing. Screwed the pressure screw out some and walla!! Fixed.
 
When it rains I am getting water on the carpet down below right in front of the main electrical distribution panel. I replaced the seals/gaskets in the two port side port lites but that apparently wasn't the cause as the carpet is wet again after the heavy rains we had this past weekend. There is no obvious water running down the walls and the AC pan is dry. Any thoughts on where to look next? I also get water in the bilge when it rains so perhaps there is a common point of entry. Thanks.
 
searay495 said:
OK, for anyone who cares. Took the pump apart. Not really sure of what I was looking for. Put it back together, same thing. Screwed the pressure screw out some and walla!! Fixed.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the followup, that's good information to have in case it happens to us. For whatever reason your pump must not be able to quite get to the cutoff pressure. Turning it down a pound or two must have fixed it (I had to do the very same thing once with a well pump pressure switch).

Tom
 
JimT said:
When it rains I am getting water on the carpet down below right in front of the main electrical distribution panel. I replaced the seals/gaskets in the two port side port lites but that apparently wasn't the cause as the carpet is wet again after the heavy rains we had this past weekend. There is no obvious water running down the walls and the AC pan is dry. Any thoughts on where to look next? I also get water in the bilge when it rains so perhaps there is a common point of entry. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I was getting leaks where the outside benches connect into the floor . The water was going into the wall at the mid -berth. Had to take out the seats and re-seal. doesnt seem like that would make it all the way to the electrical panel area though. Are you getting any dampness around the mid berth wall?
 
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