Official 280 Sundancer Thread

I do have a throb that I hear at cruising speeds. I've never been able to pinpoint it's cause. At first I thought the engines were out of sync but they're not. What ever it is isn't noticed by anyone else and I've learned to tune it out and just listen to the engines. I'm thinking it is some kind of harmonic in my boat but I don't necessarily think it is a trait of all 280DA.
 
scoflaw said:
Thanks for the reply Jason, tell me, does your boat have a pulsing vibration you can feel in your feet, when your going 3800 rpm and up? Tech said it was the harmonics of the boat.
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I don't think so, definitely not any kind of engine speed pulsing; possibly some vibration- but nothing I can ever recall noticing. At 3800 my twins are purring like kittens. I will be out next weekend and check though. I am somewhat the OCD/Over-observant type so I am pretty sure I would have noticed it by now if it was doing it.

The only thing like that I have noticed like that is the "droaning" sound from somewhere in the 800~1100 range that has been posted about here before by others. There is about a 200 RPM range that the engines don't seem to like and I am more inclined to believe it is an engine thing rather than something specific to the 280. I never noticed it with my 225WE that had a single 5.0MPI but maybe having 2 makes it more pronounced. Don't know but I usually just tap it up to 1150 and not worry about it.

Remember, even though all of these 280s look the same there can be differences in thickness and weight of fiberglass in certain areas from one boat to the next. That could always be the reason one may not sound just like another or have the same quirks. The hull and deck are essentially made by hand and there can be differences in weight by hundreds of pounds from one hull to another possibly causing a difference in harmonics from one boat to another. Just keep in mind it is possible that it may not be a problem of any kind at all.
 
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More of an oscilating vibration, nothing to do with RPM variation. It's in the driveline. Hundreds of pounds difference in boats :wow:?? You sure about that one? I would think they would pour the same amount of product in the mold.
 
scoflaw said:
Hundreds of pounds difference in boats :wow:?? You sure about that one? I would think they would pour the same amount of product in the mold.
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Yes, I am sure. There is nothing "poured". Gelcoat is sprayed in a mold then fiberglass and other materials is laid in by a crew of folks. With this method, it impossible to make each boat *exactly* the same. The resin is allowed to cure, mold is removed, then hull and deck through a laser guided cutting bay where all the holes are cut.

The hull and deck are made separately by the same process. When they get to the end of the glass shop, they weigh the hull and deck separately to make sure they are within the stated weight tolerance range for each. The hull and deck range is different and the range varies for each boat. If a hull or deck weighs in too light or too heavy, it is scrapped. There is a chart at the end of the glass shop showing each model with deck and hull weight range. By the time I visited the plant, our model 280DA was no longer being manufactured so I have no idea what the range was for our boats however the ranges posted for other boats were in the hundreds as I recall.

My point really was just that different thicknesses, even minor could account in harmonic differences from boat to boat. Not saying that is what it is for sure just a reasonable theory.

I will say this- after visiting the plant, I gained much more appreciation for the quality of these boats and the cost. I have worked in an automobile plant before where parts are essentially bolted together, some by robots, to build a car. Unlike the automobile plant, these boats truly are "created" at the plant and the whole process is hands on by humans, except for the before-mentioned laser guided cutting bay.
 
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Electrical question . . .

I've had this boat for 7 months now and am trying to get the last of the punch list knocked out. Something I have neglected is figuring out an issue I have w/ the 110 AC outlets. The outlet in the cockpit - down beside the driver seat in particular. How do I get this outlet live? I have tried all the AC switch combinations on the electrical panel - nothing seems to work. Interestingly - the AC outlet down next to the panel - at the entrance to the mid-berth doesn't seem to work either. Both of the outlets on the starboard side in the cabin (behind the stove and behind the tv) work just fine when the "outlets" AC circuit breaker is turned on.

So - am I just missing something?
 
old-thirty-three said:
Electrical question . . .

I've had this boat for 7 months now and am trying to get the last of the punch list knocked out. Something I have neglected is figuring out an issue I have w/ the 110 AC outlets. The outlet in the cockpit - down beside the driver seat in particular. How do I get this outlet live? I have tried all the AC switch combinations on the electrical panel - nothing seems to work. Interestingly - the AC outlet down next to the panel - at the entrance to the mid-berth doesn't seem to work either. Both of the outlets on the starboard side in the cabin (behind the stove and behind the tv) work just fine when the "outlets" AC circuit breaker is turned on.

So - am I just missing something?
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In the bathroom/head is a small medicine chest. Open this and hit the reset button on the GFCI outlet. This outlet feeds the other two outlets you mentioned. Please post a follow up post letting us know your results.
 
i am having trouble locating a sound shield for my Kohler generator. the exhaust doesnt seem to be the problem with the noise. its actually quieter in the cockpit than in the cabin. can anyone point me to the right direction to find one of these?
 
scootdogg said:
i am having trouble locating a sound shield for my Kohler generator. the exhaust doesnt seem to be the problem with the noise. its actually quieter in the cockpit than in the cabin. can anyone point me to the right direction to find one of these?
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You will need to call the local Kohler Dealer if you cant find one used. For you, it is Mobile Marine in Davidson 704-784-4592 or Nixon Power in Charlotte.

I think the problem is going to be a) you won't like the price -and- b) I would be shocked if you can get it to fit.

I believe it is around $1500 new. It is basically a doghouse that fits over all 4 sides and top. I am pretty sure it will be impossible to do a complete installation considering the genny location in a 280DA.
 
jason78 said:
You will need to call the local Kohler Dealer if you cant find one used. For you, it is Mobile Marine in Davidson 704-784-4592 or Nixon Power in Charlotte.

I think the problem is going to be a) you won't like the price -and- b) I would be shocked if you can get it to fit.

I believe it is around $1500 new. It is basically a doghouse that fits over all 4 sides and top. I am pretty sure it will be impossible to do a complete installation considering the genny location in a 280DA.
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I'd be curious what you find out. There isn't one on the kohler in my 300DA either. A sound shield was something I had considered looking into, but not gotten around to yet.

I hear the generator most when sitting in the aft cockpit seats when its right under you. Of course thats where everyone hangs out for the most part unless its time to call it a night. The noise in the cabin and exhaust noise overboard are actually suprisingly quiet from my perspective.



-James
 
JimFromMD said:
I'd be curious what you find out. There isn't one on the kohler in my 300DA either. A sound shield was something I had considered looking into, but not gotten around to yet.

I hear the generator most when sitting in the aft cockpit seats when its right under you. Of course thats where everyone hangs out for the most part unless its time to call it a night. The noise in the cabin and exhaust noise overboard are actually suprisingly quiet from my perspective.
-James
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I dont think you would have any problem at all installing one on your 300. The location in the 280 barely makes the genny barely servicable, let alone coverable. You should be able to drop it right on.
 
Does anybody know where I can find the plastic tabs that hold the return A/C grate in. During my last outing in big water I had two break and the grate will not stay in anymore. Thanks!
 
Bucit said:
Does anybody know where I can find the plastic tabs that hold the return A/C grate in. During my last outing in big water I had two break and the grate will not stay in anymore. Thanks!
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+1 .......mine has been laying on the floor since I bought the boat
 
Presentation said:
In the bathroom/head is a small medicine chest. Open this and hit the reset button on the GFCI outlet. This outlet feeds the other two outlets you mentioned. Please post a follow up post letting us know your results.
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You are the Man! This ranks right up there w/ the "secret compartment." I've had this boat for seven months and never knew there was an outlet in the cabinet in the head - let alone that it was a GFCI outlet controlling other outlets. As soon as I opened the cabinet - the red light was glowing. A simple push of the reset button and everything is back to normal.

Interestingly, this also solved a winterization problem for me. The previous owner had an engine room heater installed and it was hard wired to this same circuit. I was trying to figure out why it wouldn't turn on and now have that problem solved too.

This forum is a great resource. Thanks to all those that hang out here regularly and provide the help that you do.
 
Bucit said:
Does anybody know where I can find the plastic tabs that hold the return A/C grate in. During my last outing in big water I had two break and the grate will not stay in anymore. Thanks!
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kkalsch said:
+1 .......mine has been laying on the floor since I bought the boat
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Mine were broke when I bought the boat and the dealer replaced them. I will try to find out where they got them unless someone else replies sooner.
 
Going to mount a GPS, radar unit on the dash. Did some sniffin around for a good spot to locate 12v and a ground. Nothing looks real easy to access. Thinkin about the trailer switch, if I could figure how to get it apart. Any ideas?
 
scoflaw said:
Going to mount a GPS, radar unit on the dash. Did some sniffin around for a good spot to locate 12v and a ground. Nothing looks real easy to access. Thinkin about the trailer switch, if I could figure how to get it apart. Any ideas?
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You would be better off going to the battery terminal on the control module under the trottles. That is where I got my 12 V power. It is not that hard to get to.
 
Here is a picture of how I did mine:

underdash.jpg


The exposed buss bars are for the Raymarine SeaTalk data wires coming from the GPS, Depth, and fluxgate smart heading sensor.

The covered fuse block is a Blue Sea unit. The ground and power for this come from the main power feed to the forward EIM that is located in the drop down cubby under the controls. These are controlled by the battery switch. This allows the electronics to be on anytime the battery switch is on, provides more than enough amps for multiple circuits. It is an easy fish from the forward end of the EIM to the hole under the dash where the main wires come out.

Note I did an after market upgrade to Smartcraft, so that is why the SC junction box may not look the same as the stock install.

Henry
 
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