Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Voldad said:
Mine just did this - lost the holiday weekend. It was the Idle Air Control. Swap from the good engine and see what happens. Its located right behind the air intake - take about 10 min to swap.
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Thanks, Voldad. I'll try that. I noticed that the engine with the alarm was idling around 500 rpm instead of the usual 600 ish. Wonder if this is related?
 
saopm said:
NP...I'm still burned by the whole situation if you couldn't tell. How much could SR have possibly saved by not installing three screws on each side?

-Tim
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I agree. After reading your original post I went home and checked mine. Something I would have never thought about.
 
:thumbsup:On a different note, if anyone has a problem w/overboard discharge of the holding tank......Replace duckbill valves, 17.00 each x 2, took me 30 minutes to change, common screw driver and a medium pair of channel lock pliers. An easy fix to a problem.
 
saopm said:
On the 280DA the Blower Covers are held on by just Caulk, no screws. I lost one of my covers in a wind storm last month and it cost over $450 to replace and that is just the part and gelcoat, not labor. In fact I had to wet sand and polish myself. I removed the other side with very little effort. I reinstalled both sides with 3M 4200 Marine Adhisive and used blue painters tape to keep them in place while the adhesive cured. I was going to add a couple of screws but it feels very solid with just the 3M 4200. If the covers are loose on your boat I would pull them off now before you lose them. I still cannot beleive there are no screws!
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I was recaulking mine a few months ago and one popped off while digging out the dried caulk. Fell into 15 feet of cold water at the dock. I went to the dealer thinking it would be a cheap replacement. I was told that Sea Ray would have to make one special since they had none on the shelf. Cost $950. Diver at $75 found it the next day. This is something you want to keep and eye on.
 
Well, thanks all for the useful tips on installing a cockpit cover a few pages back. The tips and the photos all went to good use and I had no problems whatsoever installing mine this past weekend! Fits great, looks even better.

I ended up spacing my snaps about every 10 inches. This seemed to work perfectly as I had THREE snaps leftover when I was finished. I used all of the existing camper canvas studs and had to drill new holes for studs going all the way around the windshield from arch to arch. Used an 1/8" drill bit which seemed to work perfect.

And let me mention one more thing, that Pres-N-Snap tool was a joy to use! Previously I had used the snap tool sold by Great Lakes Boat Top on a tonneau (bow) cover for my 175. Junk. And I even called it that before I had purchased this new tool. This Pres-N-Snap is crazy simple, works every-single-time. I'm just walking around trying to find other things that need snaps so I can keep playing with it! Best $110.00 I ever spent on a tool.

I also used a revolving hole punch to punch holes where I marked them before installing the snaps. Worked great too.


BoatCockpitCover.jpg
 
Gunn said:
Well, thanks all for the useful tips on installing a cockpit cover a few pages back. The tips and the photos all went to good use and I had no problems whatsoever installing mine this past weekend! Fits great, looks even better.

I ended up spacing my snaps about every 10 inches. This seemed to work perfectly as I had THREE snaps leftover when I was finished. I used all of the existing camper canvas studs and had to drill new holes for studs going all the way around the windshield from arch to arch. Used an 1/8" drill bit which seemed to work perfect.

And let me mention one more thing, that Pres-N-Snap tool was a joy to use! Previously I had used the snap tool sold by Great Lakes Boat Top on a tonneau (bow) cover for my 175. Junk. And I even called it that before I had purchased this new tool. This Pres-N-Snap is crazy simple, works every-single-time. I'm just walking around trying to find other things that need snaps so I can keep playing with it! Best $110.00 I ever spent on a tool.

I also used a revolving hole punch to punch holes where I marked them before installing the snaps. Worked great too.


BoatCockpitCover.jpg
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Awesome job! Congrats!
 
JimT said:
I was recaulking mine a few months ago and one popped off while digging out the dried caulk. Fell into 15 feet of cold water at the dock. I went to the dealer thinking it would be a cheap replacement. I was told that Sea Ray would have to make one special since they had none on the shelf. Cost $950. Diver at $75 found it the next day. This is something you want to keep and eye on.
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Thanks all for the info. Guess I'll be doing a caulk job this weekend! Im still really suprised that there are no bolts or anything, but i guess that makes it easier to repair, as long as it's not lost overboard already... as you pointed out!:smt038
 
Be careful how you remove the blower covers. I had a cracked one replaced last fall. It was loose, but when the fiberglass guy removed the cover it came away with a big (2" dia) patch of gelcoat. Not a real issue as it was being professionally repaired, but could cause some headaches for some one who was expecting a simple remove and re-glue job.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
Be careful how you remove the blower covers. I had a cracked one replaced last fall. It was loose, but when the fiberglass guy removed the cover it came away with a big (2" dia) patch of gelcoat. Not a real issue as it was being professionally repaired, but could cause some headaches for some one who was expecting a simple remove and re-glue job.

Henry
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Interesting... Would you recommend trying to re-glue them in place by squeezing in some additional caulk where it has come loose instead of starting from scratch after cleaning and removing them?
 
JimFromMD said:
Interesting... Would you recommend trying to re-glue them in place by squeezing in some additional caulk where it has come loose instead of starting from scratch after cleaning and removing them?
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Tough call, as we've also had reports of these things just falling off on their own, or popping off when someone uses them as a hand hold. I think I'd say try and remove them. If they come off great, if it feels like they are on solid, work around them. Definitely caulk them when you done. I had unexplained fresh water leaks in the bilge until I re-caulked mine. Rain water was running down the camper sides under the covers and down the blower ducts.

Henry
 
Mine are definitely loose and could come off also :(. I think I found my cure for the "wanting to move to a bigger boat"!!! I have had mine in a covered slip for close to two months and couldn't take it anymore! Pulled her out and took to shop to scrub off the newly acquired fur coat!! Spent all day killing spiders and cleaning crap:( Got her looking like new but I'm WORE OUT!!
 
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what is a normal oil pressure reading for the 4.3 mpi's? my port motor started at 80 and eventually came down and stayed steady at 60 at about 3600rpm. my starbord motor only got to 60 and hovered more around 50-55psi. at idle port was at like 60 and starbord 40. guages accurate? problem?
 
masilobes said:
what is a normal oil pressure reading for the 4.3 mpi's? my port motor started at 80 and eventually came down and stayed steady at 60 at about 3600rpm. my starbord motor only got to 60 and hovered more around 50-55psi. at idle port was at like 60 and starbord 40. guages accurate? problem?
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I just got back from a trip out today. At startup, idling they were both showing around 40psi. At cruise speed around 3600rpm, they were both showing around 60psi.

I'm using the Mercruiser semi-synthetic oil, 25W40 with NAPA Gold oil filters.

Tom
 
Hello,
Is there a reset on windlass? Chain became bound. Freed the chain. I can hear starter clicking but no motor action.
Any suggestions?
 
My windlass is now working from the dash aft replacing the switch pads, however I cannot get any response from the foot buttons on the bow. I have checked all 3 breakers. Anyone ever replaced them?

Mike
 
themikehyde said:
My windlass is now working from the dash aft replacing the switch pads, however I cannot get any response from the foot buttons on the bow. I have checked all 3 breakers. Anyone ever replaced them?

Mike
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As I recall, someone once reported the foot switches have their own breaker or fuse that is hard to see and located almost under the switches in the locker. Is that one of the breakers you checked?
 
:thumbsup:That was me Jason, theres a fuse tie-wraped right under the windlass motor in the fwd. anchor locker.
 
susanandlance said:
:thumbsup:That was me Jason, theres a fuse tie-wraped right under the windlass motor in the fwd. anchor locker.
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On the 2002 the inline fuse was held onto the underside of the deck with one of the screws that secured the control box. So the moral is the fuse can be anywhere under there. Anyway this is what it looks like - the plug thingie directly above the red wire.

P1010859.jpg


Henry
 
jason78 said:
Yep, I had the same problem along with many others here. The problem seems to be they didn't leave an extra foot of slack on the coax. Rather than attach the coax to the antenna then pull the slack back down inside the radar arch, they just crammed the antenna on thereby ripping the coax out of the connector inside the mount tube. I added a lengeth of new coax in and connected it the right way.
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wvsundancer said:
TV Saga on the 280DA: Ok so I now have installed my new 19" JVC Flatscreen/DVD. I have now discovered my Glowmex amp is bad and it is on it's way back for repair. I thought what the heck might as well check the antenna while I'm at it and guess what ??? Never hooked up to the coax from the factory !! I just always thought all these years that this was just not very good equipment until we changed over my friends 310DA to a flat screen and we picked up 12 channels. Go figure !!
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Just a quick update my new amp and new Glowmex arrived today. The Glowmex they sent me has the new Digital decal on the side. Also the amp is a little different from the 2003 version. I think I am going to like the new HGlowmex better it is smooth and my old one had a pebble finish that attracted dirt. These guys were great and called to let me know my stuff was on the way. Now the fun begins...
 
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