Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Aaaaargh! Port engine wouldn't start. Bad battery according to the mechanic. My question, what kind of batteries should I be using in the 280DA? Cranking or deep-cycle? What specs? Just replace the originals that are on the boat now? Please help.
 
floriduramax1 said:
Is it possible to add the electric actuator for the engine hatch on the twin engine model? This thing kills my back to lift. Once it comes up a couple of inches, the struts lift it, but those first few inches are brutal. I would like to have my big cooler set in place and be able to raise the cover to get my grill or just inspect the bilge on occasion. Thanks in advance!
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I second that! That thing is heavy, and I consider myself still pretty young and fit. :smt001 Report back if you ever get something in place to raise it automatically...

jason78 said:
Several have asked for pictures of the new Corinthian Marine Snap In Carpet (Aquamat) I just purchased and installed. The carpet is R6302 Desert Sand w/ Linen Sunbrella Binding upgrade. I like it better than the "traditional" berber design.

...

The teak sump was made by Rich @ Goodale Marine. I think it really adds something to the cockpit. I plan to get the cabin insert as well very soon. www.goodalemarine.com
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Looks great! Makes me want to replace the carpet too, even though ours is still in pretty good condition. I really like the teak too. Being a hobbyist woodworker, I think I have plenty of teak lying around that I may just have to do that myself. It's a nice touch.

Tom
 
I was all set to install a power actuator last spring. But when I unwrapped for the spring, one of the gas struts was gone. So I replaced those and discovered that with fully functioning struts, the engine hatch is not so difficult to lift.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
I was all set to install a power actuator last spring. But when I unwrapped for the spring, one of the gas struts was gone. So I replaced those and discovered that with fully functioning struts, the engine hatch is not so difficult to lift.

Henry
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Has anyone ever figured out the reason some 280s have the hatch lift and some don't? It is not listed as "optional" as far as I can see. I picked a few parts and owners manuals from 03-07 and I don't see anything in them about the Electric hatch lift. Even the wiring diagram does not show any wiring for it. Although, I am pretty sure some people with 280s have said they had the lift factory installed.
 
I don't think SR offered the hatch lift as an official option until the next to last year of production. EIMs and switchpads were used across several models and those have hatch lifts (as well as port wipers and power windshield vents). Since the EIM offers integrated wiring, the 280 is all wired for a hatch lift, and given the proximity of the aft EIM to where a lift would be installed the cost of converting is just about limited to the parts. I priced non SR parts and it was about $ 300.00. But I was installing radar last year and after replacing the gas struts was such a success I decided to forgo the modification.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
I don't think SR offered the hatch lift as an official option until the next to last year of production. EIMs and switchpads were used across several models and those have hatch lifts (as well as port wipers and power windshield vents). Since the EIM offers integrated wiring, the 280 is all wired for a hatch lift, and given the proximity of the aft EIM to where a lift would be installed the cost of converting is just about limited to the parts. I priced non SR parts and it was about $ 300.00. But I was installing radar last year and after replacing the gas struts was such a success I decided to forgo the modification.

Henry
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Did you ever go so far as to see if the wires in the EIM harness exist? Typically, the spares show to "wrap and Terminate" but according to the diagram, the hatch wires are not even in the wiring harness for the AFT EIM in the 280 which I believe would make it very difficult to add to the EIM without removing and modifying the actual plug where the harness meets the EIM. Not sure how you would add pins and wires to that plug.
 
Hi All!
Anyone have the specifications on the Kohler 5kw generator? Mine is a 2006 era. Can't find my specs and the boat is at the yard and I can't get to the manual. Thanks!
 
srt8mag said:
Hi All!
Anyone have the specifications on the Kohler 5kw generator? Mine is a 2006 era. Can't find my specs and the boat is at the yard and I can't get to the manual. Thanks!
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I have the manual in PDF format -- shoot me a PM with your email address and I will send it to you. Mine is an '08 but I am sure it's the same.
 
jason78 said:
Did you ever go so far as to see if the wires in the EIM harness exist? Typically, the spares show to "wrap and Terminate" but according to the diagram, the hatch wires are not even in the wiring harness for the AFT EIM in the 280 which I believe would make it very difficult to add to the EIM without removing and modifying the actual plug where the harness meets the EIM. Not sure how you would add pins and wires to that plug.
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Never got that far, although I wasn't worried modifying the plug. The pins just snap into the plug body. The pass though plug bodies use a pin, or socket end on the wire that has a one way clip. Its just a piece of metal that is bent out a little. The wire end goes into the body and compresses the clip, once inside the plug body the clip expands and prevents the wire from being pulled back out.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
Never got that far, although I wasn't worried modifying the plug. The pins just snap into the plug body. The pass though plug bodies use a pin, or socket end on the wire that has a one way clip. Its just a piece of metal that is bent out a little. The wire end goes into the body and compresses the clip, once inside the plug body the clip expands and prevents the wire from being pulled back out.

Henry
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Sounds good. My only experience with the wiring harness connection to the EIM thus far was like pulling teeth because the wires are so tight and bound in to the trunk so well. To be honest I did not want to cut it all open either at the time which would have no doubt made it easier. I was trying to get the AFT ACC wire and finally got it out.
 
My '09 came standard with the electric lift hatch...I think Sea Ray put them on the '08 and '09 models, as I recall seeing an '08 with one, as well. Interestingly enough, my '09 also came with standard teak flooring, which looks great. Sea Ray added some nice touches in the final year of this model production.
IMG_1837.JPG
 
I would like to know if anyone can provide me with some practical bridge clearance numbers from the Waterline to the top of the windshield. In the owners manual it says 6'11" and I also saw it published somewhere else as 6'10". I was in the market for a 240 then a 260 and now what the heck, I think I will skip all that and get a 280DA if I can get under the bridge after the arch is removed. I know how that goes because I had a kayak, then a 16 alminum boat with a 15hp motor, then a 20 ft CC fishing boat which was just sold and now it is time for the cruiser. There are times i go out on the water in the afternoon and evening and I just don't want to come back until the next day.

The guy that is upgrading the lift said he can make the beam work on the new lift. One possible problem with a 280 that would still be an issue would be the Bridge Clearance on the canal to my house. I plan on removing the arch so the measurement i need is from the waterline to the top of the windshield.

If anybody happens to be at their boat while it is in the water and they happen to have a measuring tape, I sure would appreciate it if you could see what number you come up with. I think a salt water number will end up being slightly higher than a freshwater number due to the specific weight of the different waters.

I have enjoyed reading all the threads on this web-site. It has helped me alot in deciding what boat to go get.

Thanks Tommy
 
This thread has been the best thing I have found on the internet in the last year! Two quick questions I hope the gang could answer. First, I removed one of the light bulbs from the fixture over the galley which was a screw style light bulb. I have been unable to locate it at West Marine or an auto supply store. Has anyone replaced this and if so where should I look? The other question is regarding the port hole curtains. My boat didn't come with them and when trying to sleep-in on the hook as the sun rises have thought they would be a great addition. Does anyone have them and if so where would I locate a couple? Thank you in advance!
 
Tunaboat;463216I said:
was in the market for a 240 then a 260 and now what the heck, I think I will skip all that and get a 280DA
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Same here! We were looking first at a 215EC, then a 240, then a 250, then a 260, then a 270, and then a 280! Finally settled and then took nearly a year to find the one we wanted. We don't regret it. I'm just glad we didn't purchase each of those other boats first!

Anyway, while my boat is not available in the water at the moment, if you go to this link on the Sea Ray website and download the Owner's Manual Supplement for the 280DA, on page 6 (of the 2003 manual) you'll see it shows a vertical dimension from the waterline to top of the windshield as 6' 11". http://searay.com/Page.aspx/pageId/10411/Owners-Manuals.aspx

Enjoy the search!

Tom
 
jasontbrant said:
This thread has been the best thing I have found on the internet in the last year! Two quick questions I hope the gang could answer. First, I removed one of the light bulbs from the fixture over the galley which was a screw style light bulb. I have been unable to locate it at West Marine or an auto supply store. Has anyone replaced this and if so where should I look? The other question is regarding the port hole curtains. My boat didn't come with them and when trying to sleep-in on the hook as the sun rises have thought they would be a great addition. Does anyone have them and if so where would I locate a couple? Thank you in advance!
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Here is the bulb, I assume you are talking about the 120V light-

http://www.sailorsams.com/mall/e1425.asp

For the curtains, you will probably need to have them made or see if you can order them from Sea Ray. (this section updated) Although there does not seem to be a rhyme or reason as to why some 280 Sundancers did and did not get factory curtains, you can still take advantage of this wonderful option. If you do not already have them, you will need to install the snap studs on the portlight. Your best bet will probably be to find someone close to you with a 280DA that has curtains and will loan you a curtain then you can have it duplicated.
 
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jason78 said:
Here is the bulb-

http://www.sailorsams.com/mall/e1425.asp

For the curtais, you will probably need to have them made or see if you can order them from Sea Ray. This was discussed 50 or so posts back in tthis thread and it was determined that the curtains did not come in to play until 2005. If you look in the 2005 Parts manual you will see part number
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I have these curtains in my 2003?! :huh: Though I did buy it used...
 
Gunn said:
I have these curtains in my 2003?! :huh: Though I did buy it used...
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Well I don't know what to say then. There was a discussion on here 50 or so posts back about them because they are not listed on an option on the brochure or build sheet and I seem to recall most people 2004 and down did not have them. Maybe they only put curtains in every other one or something? :huh: I think it will be one of those little mysteries we will never know. Won't keep me up at night though. :grin:

Correction to jasonbryant- find someone, anyone with a curtain to loan you and have it made. One thing I can say for sure is if you have snaps on the portlights, then your boat did have them at one time. I do know the people that did not have them from new did not have the snaps on the portlights.
 
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