Official 280 Sundancer Thread

swaldrop2213@yahoo.com said:
Hey, Another question for the 280 capts. I can't make the foot switches for the windlass work, the helm switch works fine.
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Check the wires in the achor locker by the windlass. The foot switches attach there, It is easy to knock the wires off the terminals.
 
Henry Boyd said:
We've had a Food Saver brand for a number years now. We got it at Costco. They also carry the plastic sleeves that get turned into the vac bags. I seem to recall the starter kit was around $ 150.00. It also works great for storing food at home.

I'd think twice about filling up under the wetbar. There is a lot of stuff in back there; VHF cables wires coming down from the arch etc. What ever you do, do it so you can get in there if you have to run any cables forward, change the VHF antenna etc.

On the trim thing, something is not right. I don't know if it is your prop setup. We also do 23 knots (25-26 mph) at 3400 RPM on the 496. I also only use the trim tabs to balance the boat.

Henry
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I use the trim tabs to help get on plane. My boat is rear heavy and the bow rise is pronounced when accelerating.
 
Henry Boyd said:
We've had a Food Saver brand for a number years now. We got it at Costco. They also carry the plastic sleeves that get turned into the vac bags. I seem to recall the starter kit was around $ 150.00. It also works great for storing food at home.

I'd think twice about filling up under the wetbar. There is a lot of stuff in back there; VHF cables wires coming down from the arch etc. What ever you do, do it so you can get in there if you have to run any cables forward, change the VHF antenna etc.

On the trim thing, something is not right. I don't know if it is your prop setup. We also do 23 knots (25-26 mph) at 3400 RPM on the 496. I also only use the trim tabs to balance the boat.

Henry
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Deleted, incorrect info was posted.
 
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Woody said:
On my 280DA there are no wires under the wet bar. Everything runs inside the wall through big gobs of silicone in a couple different locations. Once I got the route figured out it wasn't to bad getting wires through.
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Thats how mine is. I have learned though to put the silicone back where I remove it from! Keeps the smells from the ER out of the cabin! I will be running some more wires just as soon as my package from BOE shows up:smt038:smt038:smt038

Edit: Concerning the wires and access, if I decide to modify the cabinet and install a slide out freezer/refrigerator or Ice maker it will be removable for access.
 
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Woody said:
On my 280DA there are no wires under the wet bar. Everything runs inside the wall through big gobs of silicone in a couple different locations. Once I got the route figured out it wasn't to bad getting wires through.
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I am assuming then that you have removed the Starboard wall panel in the Aft cabin to access everything? How difficult is it to remove and replace that panel? Thanks
 
floriduramax1 said:
I tried with no tabs all the way to full tabs:huh: I have been complaining that the props do not "bite" like they should. When I hammer from stop or no wake speeds, RPM's jump quickly to 4k-4200 and just feel like their slipping, but not :smt021 More like no bite! Once on plane she hauls the mail! Now this time with the full load I did not hit rev limiter like without load and less than half a tank of gas. I am curious how she would handle with the added weight of switching to an all chain rode.
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I got different engines but I found no advantage to firewall throttles. To me it feels like spinning the wheels to much trying to take off fast in a car. I roll the throttle on steadily until I get near that slippage sensation. Sometimes I have to pull pack for an instant, it bites and then continue with throttle as hard as it can take it without that slippage feeling. I can get my boat on plane much faster by not hammering right from the start.
 
Woody said:
I got different engines but I found no advantage to firewall throttles. To me it feels like spinning the wheels to much trying to take off fast in a car. I roll the throttle on steadily until I get near that slippage sensation. Sometimes I have to pull pack for an instant, it bites and then continue with throttle as hard as it can take it without that slippage feeling. I can get my boat on plane much faster by not hammering right from the start.
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Woody beat me to it, sounds like you might be cavitating with a full trottle, same thing happens to mine if I go full throttle. The RPMS will jump to 4 grand quickly but there is no acceleration, next time your out just try drives all the way down and throttles about 3/4, either way Good Luck!
 
Inmotion said:
Woody beat me to it, sounds like you might be cavitating with a full trottle, same thing happens to mine if I go full throttle. The RPMS will jump to 4 grand quickly but there is no acceleration, next time your out just try drives all the way down and throttles about 3/4, either way Good Luck!
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I also have no problems with this but I make sure both the trim tabs are down and the drives are in full down position and bring up engines slowly. It is much easier on engine and drive components if you don't "hammer" the throttles.
 
Woody said:
On my 280DA there are no wires under the wet bar. Everything runs inside the wall through big gobs of silicone in a couple different locations. Once I got the route figured out it wasn't to bad getting wires through.
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Interesting, I've got the gobs of silicone behind forward of the holding tank and all of the ER stuff and control cables go through there. The VHF, GPS, arch/mast light and stbd speakers are all up behind the wet bar and go through a hole (also with gobs of silicone)about in line with the back of the helm seat.
 
Thanks 66pony, will check that later this week, I'm busy buffing for the next couple days. That Buff Magic stuff is the best i've used btw. Thanks, Lance
 
Henry Boyd said:
Interesting, I've got the gobs of silicone behind forward of the holding tank and all of the ER stuff and control cables go through there. The VHF, GPS, arch/mast light and stbd speakers are all up behind the wet bar and go through a hole (also with gobs of silicone)about in line with the back of the helm seat.
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You are correct about those wires. Your post caused me to question mine so I went out this afternoon and refreshed my memory. When I pulled my antenna wire through I pulled the arch access plate and forward stbd speaker out. I actually did nothing from under the wet bar because it was hard for me to reach.
 
Getting ready for a new scuba diving season and need to change anchor line. Existing length way too short. Can anyone advise me as to the maximum length of 1/2" anchor line that will fit in the anchor hatch?
Thanks
Jeff
 
floriduramax1 said:
Working on v-berth now. Wife bought a Therapedic mattress pad at Bed Bath and Beyond for our over priced Sleep Comfort bed and I'm considering buying another one and cutting it to fit the berth. I'll let you know. It is about 2-3" thick. I still want the hanging lockers to open as well. If they wont I will be going to foam shop and getting and cutting my own.
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Ok here's the "skinny"...http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=16736740&RN=690&KSKU=121630& This is the one I used. I laid the topper on the floor, laid the vberth cushions upside down on it, marked it out with a sharpie at the same angle as the cushions and allowed a space because the vberth walls go up at an angle and the space gets larger. Used an electric knife and cut her out. Before I started this, we used this topper on our POS Sleep Number bed but did not like it.

At this point I (before I started cutting on it) I had no idea what she paid for it:wow: I had to use some of the cut off material to add to the top because I extended it so it would be flat by the dinette (and not have that angle) and used spray adhesive to glue them together. I temporarily wrapped the zip on mattress cover that comes on it and installed it.

Spent the weekend on the hook and all I gotta say is AWESOME!!!! Admiral was happy and that worked out quite nicely:grin::grin:. I just had her drop the whole thing off at my upholsterer's house so he can modify the cover to work as it was intended.

I will post some pics as soon as I get it back in. I will not be using my Vberth table as the filler. I will make just a plywood filler and extend it so it will be flat at the dinette end. This makes the Vberth longer and less "crowded"!

I also posted pics of the cushions removed that wrap around the front and serve as a back rest. I am fabbing some black Corian and it will be high polished so as to cover the raw edge and also allow me to store stuff on the ledge. All this really makes the vberth comfortable:smt038

I am making all this where it can be removed and everything put back in place if the next owner wants to!
 
Under contract and moving up. Great boat and a great group of owners here. Thanks for all the knowledge you have all provided!
 
jk280 said:
Getting ready for a new scuba diving season and need to change anchor line. Existing length way too short. Can anyone advise me as to the maximum length of 1/2" anchor line that will fit in the anchor hatch?
Thanks
Jeff
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We have deep waters out here in California. I have 300feet of anchor rode plus the 25' of chain. I think the anchor locker can hold twice what I have. If you have the windlass make sure you use the correct size chain and rope.

Best,
Rich
 
Hi everyone, soon to be new owner of a 2010 280, 496, gps, gen, etc. This is my first boat so I'm concerned about what i should look for during the sea demo. Should they demonstrate everything is in working order, windlass, gen, ac/heat etc. Or should i expect, here it is, it floats, sign the contract. Advice of what I should look for? Any links would help if this has been covered, ( ive looked), thanks.
 
ReLAXin said:
Hi everyone, soon to be new owner of a 2010 280, 496, gps, gen, etc. This is my first boat so I'm concerned about what i should look for during the sea demo. Should they demonstrate everything is in working order, windlass, gen, ac/heat etc. Or should i expect, here it is, it floats, sign the contract. Advice of what I should look for? Any links would help if this has been covered, ( ive looked), thanks.
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Welcome and congrats on your new boat! Although these are fairly general questions, You may have better luck finding information specific for your boat model in the "Official 2009 270DA/2010+ 280DA" thread. This thread is intended primarily to answer questions on the 2001-2009 280DA which is a much different boat than the 2010 280DA you will be purchasing. Sea Ray did a re-numbering during hull design changes that occured over the 2009-2010 model years and essentially moved all numbers up based on overall length. It is very confusing for all of us.

Please don't take this the wrong way, you are more than welcome to post here I am just trying to help guide you get the best answers for your specific model, mainly for future questions. There could be specific things with that model that other owners can share with you.

Here is a link to the thread I am talking about http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/26015-The-official-2009-270DA-2010-280DA-thread

To directly answer your question, I would say if it is a new boat, they should take you through all systems to demonstrate how they work and while doing so, test to make sure they are working properly. Most reputable dealers will do a Pre-Delivery inspection as well. In the past I have seen some recommend a survey for a new boat. Not sure I would go to those lengths, but that is really a personal choice. As long as all systems work, the warranty should cover any immediate or short term problems. Provided though you have a strong dealer that will work for you if/when warranty work arises.
 
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