Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Anyone ever ran the wiring for a windlass from the ER to the front anchor compartment(on a 280)? Looking for ideas on how/where to run it. I have made it from the ER to the panel when I added sat radio, that's as far as I've gotten. I'm thinking about installing a Lewmar v700, planning out what it would take. Thanks.
 
Re: Dinghy questions for 2007 280..

I have a west marine 10 ft. hard bottom w/9.9 evinrude, it will plan nice w/two, and struggles a bit but will plan with 3. I have the weaver davitts that bolt to the platform, and a rubber pad that glues to the dingy that then attaches to the platform. You just attach the two and turn the dingy towards the boat and it rests there.
 
Also a 10 hp two stroke will weigh much less than a 4 stroke and so it will perform a little better, fold the rear seat and store the motor there.
 
Hi Jyurgo, I installed a new Lewmar V700 on my 280 last season. Unlike some newer 280s mine was not pre-wired, which I assume yours is the same, mine is an Arizona boat. Which means running power wires, after looking at some other 280s I ended up running the cables along the port side from the ER jumper through the Lewmar provided breaker to the anchor locker and across to where I put the contacter just under the anchorlocker door. I have pictures at home and can upload later tongiht.

It really was not diffcult, I bought a 50ft fish tape which made it simple.

Terry


JYurgo said:
Anyone ever ran the wiring for a windlass from the ER to the front anchor compartment(on a 280)? Looking for ideas on how/where to run it. I have made it from the ER to the panel when I added sat radio, that's as far as I've gotten. I'm thinking about installing a Lewmar v700, planning out what it would take. Thanks.
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Inmotion said:
Hi Jyurgo, I installed a new Lewmar V700 on my 280 last season. Unlike some newer 280s mine was not pre-wired, which I assume yours is the same, mine is an Arizona boat. Which means running power wires, after looking at some other 280s I ended up running the cables along the port side from the ER jumper through the Lewmar provided breaker to the anchor locker and across to where I put the contacter just under the anchorlocker door. I have pictures at home and can upload later tongiht.

It really was not diffcult, I bought a 50ft fish tape which made it simple.

Terry
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Terry, I would definitly be interested to see exactly how you did it. Sounds like we have exactly the same boat(mines a AZ boat as well) and installing the same windlass. If it would be easier I will PM you my email and if you could send some pics and kinda what/how you did it. Thanks a ton,
Jerry
 
JYurgo said:
Terry, I would definitly be interested to see exactly how you did it. Sounds like we have exactly the same boat(mines a AZ boat as well) and installing the same windlass. If it would be easier I will PM you my email and if you could send some pics and kinda what/how you did it. Thanks a ton,
Jerry
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Terry, I would be interested in details as well, as the local Sea Ray dealer has quoted me $3000 to install a windlass on ours. I can PM my email, and if it's convenient, could you just forward what you will send or have sent to Jerry. :smt001
Thanks,

Jim
 
Sundance280 said:
Terry, I would be interested in details as well, as the local Sea Ray dealer has quoted me $3000 to install a windlass on ours. I can PM my email, and if it's convenient, could you just forward what you will send or have sent to Jerry. :smt001
Thanks,

Jim
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Does that include the Windlass and other componets?
 
jason78 said:
Does that include the Windlass and other componets?
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Does it matter? That's ridiculous no matter how you cut it! :wow:

I am in the wrong business... :smt001
 
Gunn said:
Does it matter? That's ridiculous no matter how you cut it! :wow:

I am in the wrong business... :smt001
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A guy on my dock paid $5500 to have a Windlass installed on his 260 over a year ago and I am not sure if he has even used it yet.
 
Gunn said:
Does it matter? That's ridiculous no matter how you cut it! :wow:

I am in the wrong business... :smt001
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It may or may not be ridiculous. We need more information.

Say I want a stainless steel chain rode. A very GREAT price on ¼ inch Stainless ISO-S40 Windless Chain is $10/foot plus shipping.

A short rode would be 150 feet.

So rode alone would be $1,500 plus shipping.
 
jasontbrant said:
Has anyone purchased a custom matress for the forward berth on their 280? If so, where did you purchase, how much did it cost and are you satisfied? Thank you in advance...
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Working on v-berth now. Wife bought a Therapedic mattress pad at Bed Bath and Beyond for our over priced Sleep Comfort bed and I'm considering buying another one and cutting it to fit the berth. I'll let you know. It is about 2-3" thick. I still want the hanging lockers to open as well. If they wont I will be going to foam shop and getting and cutting my own.
 
jasontbrant said:
Has anyone purchased a custom matress for the forward berth on their 280? If so, where did you purchase, how much did it cost and are you satisfied? Thank you in advance...
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I considered a thin custom mattress for our v-birth.

I determined any true mattress would be too thick for the storage compartment doors to open, they would hit the mattress.

Also a mattress would be too stiff to fold over to open the compartment doors or access the storage under the v-birth.


I fixed my aching back by purchasing a 6” deep king size topper, 3" of regular foam, 3” of memory foam from Walmart. It comes all together. The two are glued together when you buy them. BS on Walmart, its about 5" thick but that is another story.


I opened this up and removed the foam from the factory mesh bag and put it upside down on the floor, memory foam down.

Next I removed all the v-birth cushions and set them upside down on top of the foam topper and with a marker made my lines. No matter how you place the cushions one corner will simply hang over. I made this the port foot portion then used a piece of scrap for this corner.

Then I took the cushions off and set them aside.

Next I used an electric knife, the type you use to carve a turkey, and cut the foam topper to fit. Was my wife pissed that I used her electric knife! Note to self, next time don’t let her know when I use something from the kitchen.

I cut the topper to fit cutting it at a angle just like the v-birth cushions. I put the topper back in the mesh bag.

Finally I wrapped the topper in a bed sheet.

When finished and in the boat the sheet is on top, then the memory foam, then the regular foam, then under that is the various ends of the sheet tucked under the topper.

I may redo the sheet, having the sheet custom fitted but this is where I am at right now.

Total cost was about $140. A good night’s sleep….priceless.
 
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Floriduramax, that's a great idea, getting a foam matteress and cutting it to size.
 
Bucit said:
Floriduramax, that's a great idea, getting a foam matteress and cutting it to size.
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Thanks. I have a great foam warehouse across the street that we buy all our foam for sofas and booth dinettes. They can slice and dice anything you bring a template for:grin: They have every type of foam. You wouldn't believe how cheap you can buy the same foam that a mattress shop charges $$$ for:smt038
 
jason78 said:
Does that include the Windlass and other componets?
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Jason - yes, I just called the dealer again and clarified. Price around $3k includes rope, chain, wire and pulling it thru, foot switches, using the windlass switches on the dash touchpad, wiring to a breaker......they'll probably use a Lewmar unit.

Jim
 
Sundance280 said:
Jason - yes, I just called the dealer again and clarified. Price around $3k includes rope, chain, wire and pulling it thru, foot switches, using the windlass switches on the dash touchpad, wiring to a breaker......they'll probably use a Lewmar unit.

Jim
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Personally, (in my opinion) I think $3K for that install may be a pretty good deal- if it includes everything. The big ticket items here are the Windlass itself and the labor. Heavy gauge wire has to be run up to the anchor locker as well and at copper prices right now that will be a pretty penny too. I would ask what model Lewmar windlass they plan to use and price it our just to see. If I am not mistaken the Windlass itself will probably account for about half of that $3K.
 
Actually $3k does sound like a pretty good deal, the install is not that difficult, I did it last year for a cost of about 850.00. That's the windlass a Lewmar V700, about 650.00, 8 guage cable, and connectors is the rest, all from boatersland.com. Labor of course is the the true big cost, depending on your DIY comfort zone, took me about 12 to 15 hours, if you include planning. but I haven't tied in the helm switches yet, just a wired remote from Lewmar. So $3K for some else to do all the work and worry might be a good alternative

Either way good luck with the project, once you go windlass, you never go back!
 
Man! Trying to figure out where to mount this Catalina is killing me! I have almost every one of the mounts laying here and I just cant figure out where to put it:huh: I really want it under the swim ladder cover but I know the admiral will want to swim and climb aboard as I'm finishing the steaks:smt021 This is a very hard decision:smt009
 
Inmotion said:
Actually $3k does sound like a pretty good deal, the install is not that difficult, I did it last year for a cost of about 850.00. That's the windlass a Lewmar V700, about 650.00, 8 guage cable, and connectors is the rest, all from boatersland.com. Labor of course is the the true big cost, depending on your DIY comfort zone, took me about 12 to 15 hours, if you include planning. but I haven't tied in the helm switches yet, just a wired remote from Lewmar. So $3K for some else to do all the work and worry might be a good alternative

Either way good luck with the project, once you go windlass, you never go back!
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It's definitely worth a consideration....thanks Terry, Jason & Presentation for feedback. :grin:
 
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