Sounds about right for price. I had a new one made, (the canvas man destroyed my original one, *&$%). so needed a new one made. I have a 10" radar screen so the original one does not work when I have it mounted. Live and learn. Best of luck.
Sounds about right for price. I had a new one made, (the canvas man destroyed my original one, *&$%). so needed a new one made. I have a 10" radar screen so the original one does not work when I have it mounted. Live and learn. Best of luck.
mpmiller
New Member
- May 11, 2009
- 104
- Boat Info
- 2009 280DA, Garmin 740s Radar
- Engines
- T-4.3L MPI ALPHA (T-220)
Thanks for the pic mp! I think I will add this to the boat list. When I get it, I may need some specific pics of where the snaps go since GL does not put them on, if you can help with that when the time comes. Thanks again!
Ok guys, Will be a fresh newbie by this afternoon. I have searched the threads for my question and found anwers close but just want to confirm. I'm purchasing a 2003 280DA and wanted to know the correct procedure for switching from shore power and vice versa. What I'm looking for is what switches should be turned off when and at what point in that order do I unplug/plug shore power.Thanks
- Oct 3, 2006
- 4,404
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer, Westerbeke MPV generator
- Engines
- twin 5.0's w/BIII drives
The #1 thing to keep in mind is you do not want to plug and unplug under load.
At home would you unplug your hair blow dryer with it running? You should shut off the load first then unplug it.
The boat is the same way.
I turn off the big items like the air conditioning (may not be necessary, it’s just what I do) then the main AC power breaker in the cabin then I unplug shore power.
Welcome to the Sea Ray family.
Tonka Boater
Well-Known Member
Turn them all off before disconnecting then selectively turn on the red switches as you desire when you are on battery power. Same thing if you have a gen. Turn them all off, start the gen, switch the selector to Generator then turn on any or all white or red switches one-by-one.
EDIT: Someone can tell me otherwise, but I really don't think it matters if you pull the plug while there are devices under load. I do it only because I've always done it that way but I don't see any danger -- maybe it shortens the life of the items. Same if you plug back in while the devices on battery. I think you could leave all the white and red switches set, then pull the plug and the only battery items will run, then plug back and it will resume the AC and DC items with little or no harm.
Last edited:
themikehyde
New Member
I was just gonna say, turn off the shorepower rocker switch before unplugging the cord. Plugging/unpluggingthe shore power cord under load will cause arcing. Enought of that and it will eat away at your plugs. Whenever I go to a dock, I always check the receptacle on the opier to make sure it is not all corroded and black. If it is, I try t find another one. Boat US has many articles on this.
Thanks, I have already learned alot from the thread and hope someday I'll be helping everyone else too. Survey went great and oil analysis came back this morning all good so looks like its all a go. The downside Risers are due for change out so that will be an early hit but like I said survey went well.
MaddyDean
New Member
- Nov 25, 2009
- 545
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer, 1991
- Engines
- Twin 5.7 Mercruisers w/alpha drives
I know you have moved on--congrats on the survey. but this is what I do with the shore power.
- Turn off AC
- turn off radio
- turn everything off but the re-fridge
- turn off all the breakers (one at a time)
- turn off main breaker
- Turn off power switch from the shore power
- disconnect shore power
- Plug cord back into boat
- turn on shore power switch
- turn main breaker on
- grab a beer
- turn on AC
- turn on what ever else i need
- grab a beer.
themikehyde
New Member
I was wondering how the icemaker in the cockpit compartment worked out. My wife and I were talking how nice it would be to install another fridge there. The cooler is a pain to get in/out and the built-in cooler is an ice-eater! We thought that frig could be used for drinks and use the galley fridge for food. Anyone else considered/done this?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
themikehyde
New Member
After looking in this compartment again this weekend, I see the cooler comes way down into this area, not leaving much room for a frig. Oh well.
280wDTS
New Member
If your built-in cooler is installed like mine, then part of the ice melting could be due to air flow over the ice when underway.
One day when my wife was at the helm, I happened to stick my hand all the way back in the cooler. I quickly felt a good amount of air flowing into the cooler directly over the ice. I stuck the digital camera in the cooler and snapped a few pics. Sure enough there is a gap at the top of the cooler. Another task added to my list.
Just a thought
floatingdocs
New Member
On most 280 Sundancers what do all the dashboard switches "normally" control. What I mean specifically are the non-obvious ones(i.e. Anchor symbol for windlass). On my dashboard several of the Acc switches light up when pressed but don't seem to really control anything that I notice. Is there a "typical" layout in terms of what Acc 1, Acc 2, etc would normally be responsible for controlling. Another example - I have a Port side wiper blade control button but I don't even have a Port side wiper. Also I assume the buttons with no ability to light - for example on my boat the automatic hatch controls (which my boat does not have) are definitely "dead" switches? Thanks
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
All of the switches 'work', or rather control real circuits. The switchpads and underlying EIMs are used on different boat designs besides the 280DA.
The EIM is basically an electronic relay box that also contains the breakers for each circuit. Some of the unused switches "the ACC" for example have pigtails that come out of the EIM and are terminated. If you want to use the circuit for say, underwater lights, all you need to do is find one of these circuits connect the line to the positive side of your new device, and then ground the device to the ground buss. The helm switch would now control that item.
For switches like the port side wiper, you would have to look at the 280 wiring diagram and determine the pin position in the EIM plug for the positive side of that circuit. Then you would just need to add a wire to that pinout location.
The only caveat for this whole thing is that any device you add has to live within the current capacity of the circuit breaker associated with the switch.
Henry
floatingdocs
New Member
Several follow-up "dumb" questions. What does EIM stand for? Where would I find the pigtails/ Relay box with breakers if I wanted to use any of these switches? Are these switches running off of batteries or shore power? or some combo of both?
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
I'm not trying to get snippy, but you really should spend some time with the Owner's Supplement in the Owner's Manual.
Pigtails can be found on the EIM
EIM = Electronic Interface Module = Relay Box with breakers
Location - see manual for full details, but the forward EIM is on the starboard side at the helm footwell. Aft EIM is on the board mounted to Port side above the batteries.
These circuits are 12 volts DC, therefore batteries, Shore power is only 110 volt AC (unless you are using a Euro version, then 220 volt AC)
Henry
floatingdocs
New Member
Thanks. I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I will review the manual & limit my inquiries in the future.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Are you talking about the one with the horn button in the middle?The main cluster switch on your dash will have Water pump(two vertical lines with a horizontal wavy line), blower(fan symbol), navigation lights(light symbol~i believe with a boat), Anchor light(Anchor symbol), bilge pump(looks like a boat with water coming out), depth sounder(boat with sonar waves below it), Courtesy lights(light symbol)
themikehyde
New Member
While we are talking about the switch pads, has anyone attempted to repair one? The indicator for my water pump stopped working, and I can't see spending 300 to fix it. Last week, my blower switch quit working. Of course, that is on the other pad. It's a bit of a pain to have to go in the cabin to turn it on.
Mike
Mike
