smanier
New Member
I have no problems planing with any load, no tabs, any load.
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I have no problems planing with any load, no tabs, any load.
If you don't clean the door tracks like you clean your butt crack, it gets all crusty.
Wondering what the normal procedure everyone uses to remove the RV Antifreeze from the water system and add back in fresh water (I'd like to obviously remove as much of the RV stuff as possible).
Do I just run the faucets until the pink stuff no longer comes out then fill the tank with fresh water? Will this clean out the water heater?
Lastly, how much water do I need to pour into the toilet to get that ready to use?
I assume you used the non-toxic stuff. Empty everything via the faucets. Empty the water heater via the faucet on the hot water heater. This gets the water heater mostly empty. Then follow the below steps. If you want to add a step, fill with fresh water and empty it via using every faucet then follow the below steps. Below is the Sea Ray recommended process.
1. Use a solution of 1 pint Purex or Clorox bleach to 25 gallons of water. With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank.
2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines.
3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.
4. Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them. Also clean the screen filter at the fresh water pump.). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days.
6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by filling the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.
An annual or semi-annual re-commissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.
Thanks!
How do I clean the screen filter at the fresh water pump? In other-words, where is the fresh water pump and will I know how to disassemble it to get the screen filter out to clean?
New guy here and in the Sea Ray family. I bought this winter my first boat. It is a 315 (European equivalent of 280) with 2 x 5.0 MPI Mercruiser/BIII drives, built in 2003.
I got a lot of help by reading this forum and especially this thread, to learn the different systems of the boat and general model specific info . Thanks to all for sharing this knowledge.
I made my first ride last Saturday. Runs great!!
I am based in Athens, Greece.
New guy here and in the Sea Ray family.
It’s the item in the bottom left corner in this photo.
It’s white and round.
The threads are like a garden hose.
It’s in your engine compartment, port side, above the water heater. At least that is where mine is located.
Remove your wedding ring, unplug shore power, turn batteries off, find the water pump and attached to the water pump is this screen filter. Unscrew the white screen filter by hand, remove it, go rinse it out with water, put it back in, turn on the battery power and water pump then check for leaks.
I clean the fresh water screen filer once a year. We do use a lot of fresh water so your needs may be less. I have a small amount of debris every time I clean it. When we purchased the boat and I cleaned the fresh water pump filter for the first time it was full of gunk. I don’t think the previous owner ever cleaned it.
Please let us know how it goes, take some photos, post them and add to the resource of this website.
Thanks, how do I get the toilet ready? Add the toilet chemical? Holding tank already has the pink stuff in it?
O.K. - next two questions. How do I get my heat to work? Valve down by the bilge pumps is open - cleaned strainer prior to storage. Had it running for 10 minutes and nothing - no water squirting outside the boat?
Since you launched, have you went boating?....with the sea cock open?
It’s possible you are air locked but the digital readout should tell you that. It’s possible you have an obstruction blocking the water flow but the readout should tell you that too. It’s possible something is broken. It’s possible you have it set wrong.
First things first. You are plugged into shore power (I assume you have no generator); have the A/C panel main on, green light indicating you have 120V AC is on, the breaker for the A/C on and the lights are on for the touch pad that controls the A/C heat unit located next to the electrical panel, right? CORRECT
The sea cock is open, right? CORRECT
You have set the unit to ‘heat’ by pressing heat on the touch pad; you have turned the heat way up so it should be working. The word heat is light up in green, then press temp so the readout alternates between actual cabin temperature and what you set it to. You have set it to a temperature above the current actual temperature, right? CORRECT
Now you say 10 minutes later nothing happens, no water is shooting out the thru hull on the port side by the bow, about even with the forward most port window, right? NO WATER COMING OUT OF THRU HULL
What does the readout say on your touchpad? Do you see a code like PS5 or anything? JUST READS THE TEMP, NO CODE
Did water flow and shoot out the thru hull for 10 minutes then stop or did water never run? WATER NEVER CAME OUT THRU HULL