Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Two questions:
Getting back to installing a subwoofer like the factory install Kevin posted (thanks!). If there were wires already in place somewhere, wouldn't the sub need to be powered as well? Then what, a seperate switch to turn it on every time?
Sounds complicated but I'd love to make that upgrade.

Second, does anybody own a new 280 with the joystick control? How does it compare to twin sticks in reality?
 
I'll be inthe boat this weekend if there are any more pics of anything you guys can think of....also I figured I would tell you how they did the connections for the sub.
First- it's passive (unpowered) it has it's own amp(bridged) in the mid-berth and it has plenty of punch without being powered..
Second i stumbled onto this on the forum..
"To test this I removed the wall at the foot of the bed. I discovered the "subwoofer" wire is installed and just left hanging even if you do not opt for the upgraded stereo pkg."

134303663-M.jpg

This post is from 280 searay...about how he patched water leaks in his -midberth- search terms: 280 searay and subwoofer....I haven't removed this panel or looked how difficult it is but he says the wire is there in his......
I'm not sure which wires come from the back of the stereo to the amp(maybe amp pre-outs)....I looked a looong time ago and once I got it set-up haven't looked back.
Good luck
--Kevin
 
Cockpit compartment doors

What have others done to refinish the cockpit compartment door moldings? Mine have been touched up with spray paint, but I think it needs better. I was thinking removing them and having the frames powder coated.
Mike
 
Re-powder coating seems to be problematic. If yours look like mine, the aluminum has oxidized under the PC and created pits. Because powder coating relies on heat to activate the coating, you can't use bondo type fillers as they will melt. I suppose you could try TIGing aluminum onto the pitted areas and then blending it in, but welding heavily oxidized aluminum is a pita. Consensus seems to be replacement is the only route. I priced the door frame & hardware assembly for the battery switch compartment and it was about $ 200.00. I'm still waiting for the parts guy at the local dealer to get back with a price on the frame only.

Skipping back to Kevin's post. I've tried to get the foot wall panel out and I can't get it out. I may be too afraid of bending it, but there has to be a trick to it. Any one have any insight?

Henry
 
I'll PM 280 sea ray to post how he got the foot panel out...like in the pic.
MIke/Henry- What molding are you guys referring to the door track channels for the cabin door? Just curious
-Kevin
 
Anyone ever mess with the wiring for the fuel valves? My starboard engine would not stay running. Turned the knob on the fuel valve clockwise (Bypass?) and runs fine. Checked and not getting voltage when IGN switched on. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Mike
 
KHARRIMAN said:
I'll be inthe boat this weekend if there are any more pics of anything you guys can think of....also I figured I would tell you how they did the connections for the sub.
First- it's passive (unpowered) it has it's own amp(bridged) in the mid-berth and it has plenty of punch without being powered..
Second i stumbled onto this on the forum..
"To test this I removed the wall at the foot of the bed. I discovered the "subwoofer" wire is installed and just left hanging even if you do not opt for the upgraded stereo pkg."

134303663-M.jpg

This post is from 280 searay...about how he patched water leaks in his -midberth- search terms: 280 searay and subwoofer....I haven't removed this panel or looked how difficult it is but he says the wire is there in his......
I'm not sure which wires come from the back of the stereo to the amp(maybe amp pre-outs)....I looked a looong time ago and once I got it set-up haven't looked back.
Good luck
--Kevin
Click to expand...

To remove the starboard side wall of the mid-cabin you will need to remove the beauty caps on the 4 screws in each corner. They are colored similarly to the wall vinyl and are held in place with a little adhesive. I used a little Goo Gone to remove any stubborn adhesive. I backed all 4 screws and then gently pulled the bottom of the panel toward me. You can see the 4 gray plastic L brackets in the picture that the screws are fastened to. The panel is very tightly wedged in but take a gentle approach and be patient and it will come out with no problem. Good luck!
 
KHARRIMAN said:
About the colored hulls- I think they look GREAT but there are a few drawbacks that I read about when I was boat shopping. What you have to consider here in the west is Heat. On the inland desert lakes I frequent, the temp routinely pushes 100+. Then add in the reflection from the water and presto- you run the risk of delamination and warping due to the high heat and expansion of the fiberglass. (David Pascoe) I don't think anyone on this forum has had anything bad happen, but the others can chime in. Aside from that, they will also show more water spots if you care about that sort of thing.
Click to expand...

We are here on the West Coast as well and the temps will quite often push 100+. We have a black hull and have not had out gel coat slide off or anything in 4 seasons... :smt001 The black hull is very good about showing water spots and dirt. Keeping the hull properly polished, waxed and washed makes this a non-issue.
 
Thank You JEREMY!
--Kevin:grin:
 
First, I'm new to this site.
Mildew in sump pump area
In my looking for a 280 Sundancer, I ran across what seemed to be a nice boat (2003DA twin 4.3's). To my surprise when I looked at the sump pump, the mildew smell nearly knocked me out. It appears that this area filled with water and actually came all the way up to the carpet level and soaked the carpet. Should I investigate further or run for the hills? There were several other issues with the boat, very stiff cabin door, several gauges didn’t seem to work.
 
I assume you are talking about the sump pump under the steps. Check the breaker for the sump pump. On my boat it is located above the igniton switches. If this is not the problem, remove the plastic plate and manually check the sump pump to see if it is working. I guess the pump has not been working for a long time for all that mildew to accumulate. Hope this helps you.

Glenn
 
The area under the steps is the low point for the front part of the hull. It is the farthest aft that water can get. I would investigate more. Water here could be caused by a bad float switch, or pump in the sump box. If the boat was left on a slip with the AC running, the condensate draining into the sump box would have no where to go.

If is not related to a sump box problem, the other common causes of water here are from loose porthole dogs, and in some cases bad bedding on the bow rail hardware. But I have to ask how the owner let it get bad. Every time you empty the trash you can see if any water is down there, and its a darn small trashcan!

FYI, CSR member TurtleTone has his 280 listed on this site. You might take a look at it, it is in very good condition and well cared for. Here is a link:

http://www.clubsearay.com/boats/listing/55/28_Sea_Ray_280_Sundancer_2003.html

Good luck and let us kow how things work out.

Henry
 
Thanks Jeremy. I see why some folks say it is easy. On your boat there are four mounting brackets in roughly each corner. On ours there are only two along the bottom. The forward edge on our panel is tucked behind all of the forward wall paneling and the top is tucked behind the ceiling. I am now beginning to get the feeling SR made a design change afer they figured out the only way to get that panel off was to take half the boat apart!

Henry
 
Thanks for the input - I agree I think the pump was off or not working and flooded the boat. I can handle that - but is it ever possible to get that "smell" out. Also - just got the records on the boat - seems it's had a rough life - even fell off the trailer once. I think I'll pass on this boat (too bad I liked it). I would love to look at TurtleTones - sounds like what I am looking for. But I drove 8 hours round trip this weekend to see this 280DA, CT is a little out of my range.
 
My sump has a switch mounted in the compartment. Is thia standard, looks a little aftermarket? It is an On/Off/Auto unit. I always try to be careful to make sure it stays in the on position. I can see where it would be real easy to set it to off when emptying the wastebasket.

BTW - A freind of mine has his 2002 280DA for sale here in VA. It has twin 5.0's and I believe he is asking around 50K. If you are interested, let me know.
Thanks,
Mike
 
I love my 2002 280 but its time to sell her. I'm looking at upgrading to a 42 or 46 foot Post Marine sport fish. Need something bigger to go offshore and diesels for the fuel economy... If anyone knows anyone that is interested in a nice 2002 280, let me know. I'm only asking $52,000k for it. The twin Merc 5.0 EFI Engines have 420 hours on them and my Kohler 5k gen has 800 on it. Runs like a champ!

3211_1016996080166_1683052833_19800_2312114_n.jpg


This is what I have my eyes on...

13358_1114396115106_1683052833_239316_773391_n.jpg
 
Actually MikeHyde was interested in my boat (the poster above mine) but he opted for a boat with T 4.3's... I'll never let you live it down, Mikey! LOL
 
Hi all

I was reading the test result of 280DA in the boattest.com (http://www.boattest.com/boats/Boat_video.aspx?ID=174#bt-Overviews) and the specifications says sleep for six and says for the dinette "This dinette seats four and easily converts into a double berth for overnights. There's also good storage above."

I know that two can sleep in v-berth two in mid-berth and one adult in dinette or two kid in dinette

I'm planning to make a long trim this summer and plan to be 6-7 people(both adult) on board and sleep in the boat.
Does any of you 280 owners experienced this or how many people you sleeped ?

The most important issue is absolutely not about this topic which is the single or twin engine; I have one diesel and a bow thruster but my plan is make a 600 nauitical miles trip 230 go 230 return and 150 day trips. I'm gonna pass the Çanakkale(Dardanelles where the Trojan horse is) Strait where the Marmara Sea meets Egean then down to Greek islands.

Any thoughts recommendations warnings will be appreciated, thanks in advance.

Best regards.
 
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