Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[trdehmer]

Dare I ask what it took?

They attached it again somehow. Not sure how - looks like a new bolt and nut that are longer. They pulled the boat to fix the thru-hull transducer leak and fixed it then.

And of course now my darn depth gauge isn't working and it appears no one can fix them. Ordered a Hawkeye unit to replace gauge and thru-hull transducer.

 

[Josh28161]

Steering help needed.
Hello all, we had our new to us 04 out yesterday for a while and noticed a few steering issues. First there is about 20-30 degrees of wheel play before the boat will react. Second is on plane if I let go of the wheel the boat will start to turn port. I have been trying to research the issues but coming up with much. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

 

[stg099]

Steering help needed.
Hello all, we had our new to us 04 out yesterday for a while and noticed a few steering issues. First there is about 20-30 degrees of wheel play before the boat will react. Second is on plane if I let go of the wheel the boat will start to turn port. I have been trying to research the issues but coming up with much. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

I had a similar issue with sloppy steering. In my case it was the tilt Wheel mechanism at the helm that was the culprit. It’s an easy process to remove the steering wheel, then the rubber sleeve covering the mechanism, finally there are Allen head bolts that secure the u joint to the shafts and these need to be tightened. I added blue lot items while I was in there to prevent it from happening again. This removed almost all the slop from my steering.

as for the pull to port, if your throttles are in sync I could be that a prop is a bit off, trim tabs are not set evenly, etc.

 

[Josh28161]

I had a similar issue with sloppy steering. In my case it was the tilt Wheel mechanism at the helm that was the culprit. It’s an easy process to remove the steering wheel, then the rubber sleeve covering the mechanism, finally there are Allen head bolts that secure the u joint to the shafts and these need to be tightened. I added blue lot items while I was in there to prevent it from happening again. This removed almost all the slop from my steering.

as for the pull to port, if your throttles are in sync I could be that a prop is a bit off, trim tabs are not set evenly, etc.

Thanks for the reply. I will start there on both suggestions. Appreciate the input!

 

[Henry Boyd]

I had a similar issue with sloppy steering. In my case it was the tilt Wheel mechanism at the helm that was the culprit. It’s an easy process to remove the steering wheel, then the rubber sleeve covering the mechanism, finally there are Allen head bolts that secure the u joint to the shafts and these need to be tightened. I added blue lot items while I was in there to prevent it from happening again. This removed almost all the slop from my steering.

as for the pull to port, if your throttles are in sync I could be that a prop is a bit off, trim tabs are not set evenly, etc.

“Blue lot items” = “Blue Locktite” maybe? Gotta love auto correct!

It may also be wear in the steering pin in the drive gimbal assembly. The pin has a square head. It is inserted in the vertical ring of the gimbal that has a matching square socket. The threaded end goes up through the outer transom ring with a seal. On the inside of the transom the steering rod is dropped down on the top of the pin and secured with a nut. That’s just the big stuff apologies if I left out any hardware. The pin is stainless steel and the gimbal ring is aluminum. Over time the square steel head pounds and distorts the aluminum square socket out of shape.

To test for this on a Bravo with the boat out of the water swing the drive side to side watching the square of the pin. If the gimbal ring turns, but the pin stays stationary, it’s a bad gimbal ring. Never done this with a Alpha, but if you can see the pin it will work.

Another thing to look for is the cap nut on the connection between the steering cable and the power steering ram. The cable casing is held firm by the attachment nut and provides the stationary footing for the core to exert against. If the cap is loose, even a tiny bit it can introduce play by allowing the cable casing to move.

 

[Josh28161]

“Blue lot items” = “Blue Locktite” maybe? Gotta love auto correct!

It may also be wear in the steering pin in the drive gimbal assembly. The pin has a square head. It is inserted in the vertical ring of the gimbal that has a matching square socket. The threaded end goes up through the outer transom ring with a seal. On the inside of the transom the steering rod is dropped down on the top of the pin and secured with a nut. That’s just the big stuff apologies if I left out any hardware. The pin is stainless steel and the gimbal ring is aluminum. Over time the square steel head pounds and distorts the aluminum square socket out of shape.

To test for this on a Bravo with the boat out of the water swing the drive side to side watching the square of the pin. If the gimbal ring turns, but the pin stays stationary, it’s a bad gimbal ring. Never done this with a Alpha, but if you can see the pin it will work.

Another thing to look for is the cap nut on the connection between the steering cable and the power steering ram. The cable casing is held firm by the attachment nut and provides the stationary footing for the core to exert against. If the cap is loose, even a tiny bit it can introduce play by allowing the cable casing to move.

Thanks Henry, I will check those possibilities as well. Hopefully it will be one of the easier, and cheaper fixes.

 

[stg099]

And yes, blue loctite! Autocorrect for the win!

 

[Armada]

Hello Guys,

I have a few question regarding the sliding cabin door.

1.) Is it possible to rebuild/replace the track system?

2.) Is it possible to reupholster the leather vinyl of the interior of the door. I assume this would mean somehow removing the door by removing the dash, helm station etc?

Unfortunately it was not properly stored this past winter and, being in WA state, moisture was pretty easily able to find its way in and damage the interior part of the sliding door.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I looked very seriously at replacing the rollers for the door. I think that could be done leaving the helm in place.

I think Taking the door completely out would be required to replace the lining because the starboard edge is hidden by the helm/body structure. That would require not only taking the helm apart, a lot of work but doable. It would also mean pulling the starboard half of the windshield. These are tempered glass, not laminated. So if it gets pinched or twisted it’s complete destruction. If the windshield is lost I have no idea how it could, if ever, be replaced.

 

[K Ruck]

Kevin, just curious if you found a solution to your problem yet?

I did discover that the voltage drop was at the Relay connector. I cleaned and adjusted contacts and resolved voltage issue. I did still need to replace electric fuel pump to solve all issues. Thank you to all that assisted.

 

[Half Off]

I did discover that the voltage drop was at the Relay connector. I cleaned and adjusted contacts and resolved voltage issue. I did still need to replace electric fuel pump to solve all issues. Thank you to all that assisted.

Is that a pretty big job replacing the fuel pump? I looked at replacing the one on my starboard engine at one time due to similar issues but I solved mine by cleaning a connector on the harness going to the pump.

 

[paul hsu]

Hello Guys,

I have a few question regarding the sliding cabin door.

1.) Is it possible to rebuild/replace the track system?

2.) Is it possible to reupholster the leather vinyl of the interior of the door. I assume this would mean somehow removing the door by removing the dash, helm station etc?

Unfortunately it was not properly stored this past winter and, being in WA state, moisture was pretty easily able to find its way in and damage the interior part of the sliding door.

Any help is appreciated.

Henry is correct, however you may be able to repair the damage by removing the damaged parts as much as possible. When I replaced the interior of my airplane, the company that did it used corrugated plastic, so I borrowed their method. I replaced most of my boat interior in this way. I cut the new corrugated plastic panels i found on Amazon.com to shape and used contact spray cement to glue foam backed vinyl that I purchased online. I screwed them in place and hid the screws with buttons. Parts that are hidden and not accessible i cut to approximate size, and don't have to fit perfectly since they appear fine until the points where they are hidden. If you think that this may work, let me know, and I will provide more info. I was able to afford my boat because it was a neglected boat, so I wound up redoing most of the interior.

 

[Darrenfon]

Henry is correct, however you may be able to repair the damage by removing the damaged parts as much as possible. When I replaced the interior of my airplane, the company that did it used corrugated plastic, so I borrowed their method. I replaced most of my boat interior in this way. I cut the new corrugated plastic panels i found on Amazon.com to shape and used contact spray cement to glue foam backed vinyl that I purchased online. I screwed them in place and hid the screws with buttons. Parts that are hidden and not accessible i cut to approximate size, and don't have to fit perfectly since they appear fine until the points where they are hidden. If you think that this may work, let me know, and I will provide more info. I was able to afford my boat because it was a neglected boat, so I wound up redoing most of the interior.

I absolutely love what you did with your helm, so I'd love to see anything else you've done as well. Before Covid I planned on doing my helm like yours, but now with the loss of income, I will most likely have to wait another year or so before I do that.

 

[Armada]

Paul,

Thank you for your response. I will do a bit more research and will consider your recommendation. I agree with Darrenfon, your boat looks fantastic. Any additional pics and info regarding the customization you did would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking for a bit of inspiration as I'll be upgrading a few items on my boat. The cabin door is the heavy lift. But there are a few items. Shift cables, carpet cleaning/replacement, camper canvass replacement etc. Thanks for your input.

 

[techmitch]

I did discover that the voltage drop was at the Relay connector. I cleaned and adjusted contacts and resolved voltage issue. I did still need to replace electric fuel pump to solve all issues. Thank you to all that assisted.

Yep, thoroughly inspect connections at relays. Sounds like you have a voltage drop issue somewhere.

Where's my prize?

 

[paul hsu]

Paul,

Thank you for your response. I will do a bit more research and will consider your recommendation. I agree with Darrenfon, your boat looks fantastic. Any additional pics and info regarding the customization you did would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking for a bit of inspiration as I'll be upgrading a few items on my boat. The cabin door is the heavy lift. But there are a few items. Shift cables, carpet cleaning/replacement, camper canvass replacement etc. Thanks for your input.

I have some pics of the boat in various stages. he cabin door is heavy, but applying graphite dry lubricant will make a big difference, without dirt sticking to the lube, Shift cables were not a major change, but I did them when I serviced the boat at the beginning of the year, since the engines were already off. My carpet was really bad, so I ripped it all out and replaced it with vinyl panels on the sides, and water resistant laminate flooring on the floors.
The carpet was stuck really well, but I used vice grips to grab/lift an edge and a pry bar to break the bond. It went pretty fast. The camper top I purchased through a local canvas guy, because they custom make it, and install it also, so you don't have to punch in the snaps as you would on the premade ones. It wound up costing about the same, but is more of a custom fit. If I had to do it over, I would ask for more windows in the back, because it is tough to see when you stern park the boat. I would also make sure there are as many opening windows with screens as possible, because it gets really hot if there is not much ventilation. That is my 2 cents worth, if you would like specific information on each part as you get to them, just let me know. I would be happy to share all I can.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Paul,

Nice looking custom dash. Here is a pic of one I made in 2008:

It was eventually replaced with ones the looked more like factory.

 

[paul hsu]

Paul,

Nice looking custom dash. Here is a pic of one I made in 2008:

View attachment 85180

It was eventually replaced with ones the looked more like factory.

View attachment 85181

I owe you a thank you then, I actually used your dash as the idea for mine, I would have kept the original gauges but some of them were not working properly, so it was cheaper to convert to vessel view than replace them. I did not realize the picture I found on google was your boat!
I had seen your picture before I needed it, then when I actually was ready to start, I searched the internet for quite a while trying to find it again!

 

[Henry Boyd]

Paul,

I also did ours because we upgraded to Smartcraft and the displays available at the time were inadequate for a complete replacement. Your implementation with the main MFD in the main space and the VV in where the tri-gauge panel was solves what I think has been one of the biggest deficiencies of the 280, ergonomically useful space for navigation displays. Well done, it clearly highlights how changes in technology can help us reimagine old products.

 

[K Ruck]

Where's my prize?

Spot on! I’ll enjoy a cold one at the dock to thank you! Cheers!