Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[Lazy Daze]

It is not. I went in the bilge, wiring looks fine. Tapped it with a rubber mallet, it did nothing.

With the system on, try playing with the vac switch - push/pull it - see if it gets the pump to come one. Also check to see that you have power coming to the switch and/or jump the switch.

 

[trdehmer]

With the system on, try playing with the vac switch - push/pull it - see if it gets the pump to come one. Also check to see that you have power coming to the switch and/or jump the switch.

What do you mean by “vac switch”?

 

[Lazy Daze]

What do you mean by “vac switch”?

It's the thingy with the spring in it that controls turning the motor on and off. It's mounted on the vac tank. If you google for it, you'll get lot's of info.

 

[Henry Boyd]

If the duckbill valves were shot the generator would cycle. It’s been a long time since I have replaced them, so I can’t recall whether the vacuum pump chamber if physically plugged would immobilize the pumping mechanism. The other possible explanation is that the pump motor is not functioning due to an electrical fault, or failure of the mechanical components.

If a simple new generator swap out isn’t immediately in the cards you need to start with the duckbills to check for plugs. That would clear up a guuk clog question.

 

[trdehmer]

It's the thingy with the spring in it that controls turning the motor on and off. It's mounted on the vac tank. If you google for it, you'll get lot's of info.

I see the switch, doesn’t seem to change with the bathroom key on or off?

 

[Lazy Daze]

I see the switch, doesn’t seem to change with the bathroom key on or off?

"What" doesn't change? See post 6961 for some things to try/test to verify/nullify if the switch is good.

 

[trdehmer]

"What" doesn't change? See post 6961 for some things to try/test to verify/nullify if the switch is good.

Fixed it.

Now, onto the next issue(s). Marina fixed my drain plug, I think they just put sealant on the exterior as we felt it might have been leaking into the bilge a little. They also pulled my lower unit to see if they could find out why my gear lube level was dropping (couldn't figure it out). Now I see the bonding wire at the rear of the engine isn't attached to anything on the other end (its a ring terminal). Any idea where that should attach?

Also, I don't think the drain plug assembly is my leaking issue. I vacuumed out the bilge while in the boats in the water and it appears the water is coming in through the Thru Hull Transducer. Do I dare try and tighten the nut with a Channellock? I'm worried if the thing breaks on me that water will end up coming into the bilge real quick!!!

 

[bajturner]

Fixed it.

Now, onto the next issue(s). Marina fixed my drain plug, I think they just put sealant on the exterior as we felt it might have been leaking into the bilge a little. They also pulled my lower unit to see if they could find out why my gear lube level was dropping (couldn't figure it out). Now I see the bonding wire at the rear of the engine isn't attached to anything on the other end (its a ring terminal). Any idea where that should attach?

Also, I don't think the drain plug assembly is my leaking issue. I vacuumed out the bilge while in the boats in the water and it appears the water is coming in through the Thru Hull Transducer. Do I dare try and tighten the nut with a Channellock? I'm worried if the thing breaks on me that water will end up coming into the bilge real quick!!!

Gear lube: my 280 (twin Apha Is) had a problem with what I think were the transom lube fittings. I seem to remember both leaked at different times. My 300DAs BIII lowers both needed new prop seals to stop losing drive lube.

Bonding wire: Can't quite tell which one that is. Is there a label with an ID on it of any kind?

Leak: It has taken me three seasons with each boat to find all the leaks. It could be the transducer, but I would hesitate to use channelocks. I assume it is a removable type. Is the plug handy somewhere? One slow leak I found on my 300DA was the seacock / throughull for the macerator overboard discharge. What I believe happened is that seacock stays closed (by law) on inland lakes all the time, and some liquid does manage accumulate on the inboard side of it. If during winterization the seacock isn't opened (why would you since it is always closed, the mechanic said), that water freezes and damages the housing. Other sources: frost plug o-rings missing, loose clamps, freshwater system fittings.

 

[trdehmer]

No label of any sort on the bonding wire. There isn't much length to attach it to much down there - so I'm going to let the marina figure it out! Hopefully not half-assed.

Definatley the transducer thru hull fitting. I was able to turn it by hand maybe a quarter of a turn. Marina also said don't mess with it as water will come in quick through that if it breaks!

I think they put new seals on my gear lube fill/drain plugs. They pressure tested the system and couldn't find anything. Hopefully that's it - I've heard they can go a bit low on the first ride out of the season.

Gear lube: my 280 (twin Apha Is) had a problem with what I think were the transom lube fittings. I seem to remember both leaked at different times. My 300DAs BIII lowers both needed new prop seals to stop losing drive lube.

Bonding wire: Can't quite tell which one that is. Is there a label with an ID on it of any kind?


Leak: It has taken me three seasons with each boat to find all the leaks. It could be the transducer, but I would hesitate to use channelocks. I assume it is a removable type. Is the plug handy somewhere? One slow leak I found on my 300DA was the seacock / throughull for the macerator overboard discharge. What I believe happened is that seacock stays closed (by law) on inland lakes all the time, and some liquid does manage accumulate on the inboard side of it. If during winterization the seacock isn't opened (why would you since it is always closed, the mechanic said), that water freezes and damages the housing. Other sources: frost plug o-rings missing, loose clamps, freshwater system fittings.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Fixed it.

What was the fix?

Do you still have the "plug" that fits into the transducer hole when you remove it? It can totally be done in the water. But just in case, have a back-up plan... wax toilet bowl ring... Stay Afloat... StaPlug... etc.

I'd try turning the ring - try by hand. Nudge it with a wrench, if needed. Just "feel" it as you go.

 

[Seldom Right]

Well, its not a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, its better, a 280DA.

 

[bajturner]

Hopefully that's it - I've heard they can go a bit low on the first ride out of the season.

For sure.

 

[DWABoat]

No label of any sort on the bonding wire. There isn't much length to attach it to much down there - so I'm going to let the marina figure it out! Hopefully not half-assed.

Definatley the transducer thru hull fitting. I was able to turn it by hand maybe a quarter of a turn. Marina also said don't mess with it as water will come in quick through that if it breaks!

I think they put new seals on my gear lube fill/drain plugs. They pressure tested the system and couldn't find anything. Hopefully that's it - I've heard they can go a bit low on the first ride out of the season.

I believe they could have completely pulled your Garboard Drain out of your transom to reseal. From the factory, the Garboard Drain female receiver will have a bonding wire attached to one of the three screws (one will be a small through bolt with but on the inside). The picture of the loose end of the wire has a very small eyelet, about the size of what the throughbolt would be.
Problem is, when you remove it with the engines in the boat, it is almost impossible to replace it, so they would have just gone back with a screw and not reconnected the bonding wire.
And, yes, the lower unit can “burp” when it has been drained and re-filled.

 

[trdehmer]

That makes sense. I feel like there was a wire attached to the oil drain plug (Which goes out the drain plug) at one point.

The wire not attached leads up behind the aft cabin.

Would it be worth extending the wire and attaching to one of these bolts?

I believe they could have completely pulled your Garboard Drain out of your transom to reseal. From the factory, the Garboard Drain female receiver will have a bonding wire attached to one of the three screws (one will be a small through bolt with but on the inside). The picture of the loose end of the wire has a very small eyelet, about the size of what the throughbolt would be.
Problem is, when you remove it with the engines in the boat, it is almost impossible to replace it, so they would have just gone back with a screw and not reconnected the bonding wire.
And, yes, the lower unit can “burp” when it has been drained and re-filled.

 

[DWABoat]

The green wires are all your Common Bonding Cables for your corrosion protection. All the metal in the drive system is bonded together to share protection from the sacrificial anode. Any aluminum not bonded to the anode, will sacrifice itself to the stainless steel in the water.
The bare stainless cable you see is a Mercury bonding cable since the two components are not well connected mechanically due to grease and rubber seals. The wire gives a positive connection. You will also have these on your outdrives. You can see one on your inner transom plate to steering arm. I had to replace mine on my older boat (89) because it broke from fatigue.

The green wires are Sea Ray wires. Ultimately, they connect to the negative, but don’t you do that. You keep green to green.

As far as your Garboard green bonding wire that is dangling, do you stay on a trailer, a lift, or in the water?

 

[trdehmer]

Stays in the water. But likely will pull it out to fix the leaking transducer.

The green wires are all your Common Bonding Cables for your corrosion protection. All the metal in the drive system is bonded together to share protection from the sacrificial anode. Any aluminum not bonded to the anode, will sacrifice itself to the stainless steel in the water.
The bare stainless cable you see is a Mercury bonding cable since the two components are not well connected mechanically due to grease and rubber seals. The wire gives a positive connection. You will also have these on your outdrives. You can see one on your inner transom plate to steering arm. I had to replace mine on my older boat (89) because it broke from fatigue.

The green wires are Sea Ray wires. Ultimately, they connect to the negative, but don’t you do that. You keep green to green.

As far as your Garboard green bonding wire that is dangling, do you stay on a trailer, a lift, or in the water?

 

[bajturner]

That makes sense. I feel like there was a wire attached to the oil drain plug (Which goes out the drain plug) at one point.

The wire not attached leads up behind the aft cabin.

Would it be worth extending the wire and attaching to one of these bolts?

Can you clarify where this bond wire goes to and from?

Is the dangling end near the garboard drain, then the wire is routed forward and disappears somewhere near or beyond the mid-cabin?

Maybe I missed this, but is there currently a garboard drain bond wire attached? I am thinking it is the drain plug bond wire. This drawing will help. Note where the bonding bus bar is.

I think this shows all of the bond wires...

 

[trdehmer]

Can you clarify where this bond wire goes to and from?

Is the dangling end near the garboard drain, then the wire is routed forward and disappears somewhere near or beyond the mid-cabin?

Maybe I missed this, but is there currently a garboard drain bond wire attached? I am thinking it is the drain plug bond wire. This drawing will help. Note where the bonding bus bar is.

View attachment 83370

I think this shows all of the bond wires...

The wire is on the starboard (Right) side of the engine running right along the fiberglass hull. The end not attached looks as though it could have reached the drain plug area. Then it runs along parallel to another green wire (attached to the back of the engine - see picture) that is right behind the aft cabin, near water holding tank. Maybe to the bonding bus bar??

 

[bajturner]

The wire is on the starboard (Right) side of the engine running right along the fiberglass hull. The end not attached looks as though it could have reached the drain plug area. Then it runs along parallel to another green wire (attached to the back of the engine - see picture) that is right behind the aft cabin, near water holding tank. Maybe to the bonding bus bar??

If there is none on the drain, that would be my bet, especially if the other end goes right behind the cabin where the bus bar is.

 

[trdehmer]

The wire is on the starboard (Right) side of the engine running right along the fiberglass hull. The end not attached looks as though it could have reached the drain plug area. Then it runs along parallel to another green wire (attached to the back of the engine - see picture) that is right behind the aft cabin, near water holding tank. Maybe to the bonding bus bar??

The wire is on the starboard (Right) side of the engine running right along the fiberglass hull. The end not attached looks as though it could have reached the drain plug area. Then it runs along parallel to another green wire (attached to the back of the engine - see picture) that is right behind the aft cabin, near water holding tank. Maybe to the bonding bus bar??

The first picture is starting at the back of the boat, the second photo is going towards the front. Follow the purple line. Both wires run right with each other. One attaches to the back of the engine, the other isn’t attached to anything....