Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Sorry - I had a couple things on my mind as I was typing a response. Running with the fuel cap off eliminates the fuel vent from the mix... in case it is clogged - which you can still try doing. Either way, it is extremely unlikely that both of the electric shutoffs are partially failing. In case you missed it above, you DO NOT have traditional AS valves.

The first thing to do is NOT just start replacing items because some forum, somewhere, suggests it. Rarely do you get lucky and fix the issue on the first try. Check your fuel pressure - that will help narrow things down tremendously. Once you know that, we can go further.

You may have the "cool fuel three" issues that has plagued many Mercruiser motors around your model year. FYI... THAT you can go ahead and google - and also search on this forum... lot's of info about that. Or, it could be something else - but fuel pressure is a starting point.

When is the last time you changed the fuel/water separators? And what is the condition/quality of your fuel? You can take a sample from the CF3 module.

Another often overlooked item is a dirty hull bottom. It doesn't take much to cause the symptoms you are having.

 

Dennis,
Do I have fuel filters other than the fuel water separators?

Thanks,
Ed

 

Sorry, just saw this. I ran the 8 wire from the stereo located in the port cabinet just aft of the dinette, behind the facia inside the mirrored cabinet in the midship berth, drilled a hole next to the existing cable bundle through to the engine room, ran the cable along the forward engine room bulkhead from the port side to the starboard side, zip tying it to existing cable bundle along the way, routed it to the cockpit wet sink cooler drain hose, then inside the cooler storage locker along the aft edge, across and just above the locker access door, to the new remote location just forward of the locker access door and directly behind the helm seat. After successfully testing the remote, I went back and sealed the newly drilled hole between the midship berth and the engine room with JB Marine weld. Not sure if that was the best way to do it but I am very happy with the outcome. The new location is awesome for guests (primarily my daughter, who thinks she owns all rights to what music will be played) to fiddle with the stereo and not bother the Captain. And I have already enjoyed being able to easily silence distracting noise when necessary for safety and maneuvering.

 

Thank you that route may work.

 

Ed, I just noticed you have V6's... what type of fuel filter do you have? If you happen to have the one that looks like an oil filter, then that is good as it's not the "CF3" I mentioned above.

You can double check your fuel lines, but I don't believe you have another fuel filter between the tank and the F/W separator (filter).

 

Yes I have the water separating fuel filters that look like oil filters.

I am at the boat now looking everything over. Very frustrating!!
Thank You for your assistance!

 

OK, let's verify some basics...

- VERY clean hull bottom/running gear?
- You're trimming up enough?
- Dump the contents of the fuel filter into a clear, glass jar (spaghetti, for example). Observe for water.
- How old is the fuel? Smells like varnish? How dark in color?
- Take a run with the fuel cap off.

Those are all quick and easy things to do, along with not costing anything. Good to start with that.

 

Very clean hull, painted in the spring.
Trimming good.
Will dump fuel filters and observe. They were changed last year mid season
Fuel is from last season before winter layup treated with K100 before putting away for the winter.
Will run with cap off.

 

Will try running with the cap off

 

Dumped old fuel water separators and replaced with new.
Gas looked clean, smelled good, light in color.

 

You need to see what your fuel pressure is when you hit the rpm wall

 

Thank You I will check it out

 

the tracks have bolts in the engine compartment way up at the top in the back . I don't recall if there were one or two more in the cabin near the window by the rear bunk. I was never able to free the tracks, and they did not look bent when I removed them. I tried heating them, grease, hammering... nothing. I was not able to find the replacement tracks either.

 

there are a lot of posts with regards to swapping the spotlight to led. I read one where someone purchased this led bulb and supposedly it fit without modification. I purchased it but have not had a chance to install it yet. I can let you know in the next couple of weeks if it goes well. I thought it was worth a try at under 40 dollars.


PAR36 LED Work Light Xenon White 6000K(Eq 100W Incandescent lamp) Multipurpose Tractor Light Farming Industrial Offroad Lamp Outdoor Lighting Landscape Lighting(Spot)
by Handxen
20 customer reviews

| 9 answered questions




Price: $35.97

Thank you for being a Prime member. Get $70 off instantly: Pay $0.00upon approval for the Amazon Prime Rewards Visa Card. No annual fee.













Style: Spot

• 
  

 

I know that this is not for everyone, but I had a lot of problems with my gauges. Replacements were more expensive than upgrading , so I decided to go for a semi glass helm, and installed the vessel view 903. I am very happy with the results, and now have a much more usable dash full of information. I have to credit the guys at tecnografics for their help. If anyone wants info on the process or templates, let me know.
I was able to fit the axiom 12 where the old gauges were.

 

For those of you with 2002 5.0mpis, are the manifolds and risers dry joint?

 

Doubt it. All you have to do is look

 

You're right. Not dry joint. Everything i read states they started dry joint in 02 which is what year mine is.

 

Use dry-joints on your next RnR. A little more money but worth it

 

Didn't know i could switch over. Thanks