Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Ok quick one, Aft 110 outlets not working, both ACC switches on. Am I missing something? Not an issue before. 2003 280
 
Ok quick one, Aft 110 outlets not working, both ACC switches on. Am I missing something? Not an issue before. 2003 280

ACC means accessory. These are 12 vdc circuits. For 110 you need shore power, or genset, master ac switch on panel on must show green light (polarity check), and correct voltage on the meter. Then the Outlet breaker switch on the 110 panel must be on.

If everything at the master panel is ok, then check the outlets. The 110 outlets are all gfci (at least originally), and are daisy chained. When one trips, it affects all of the outlets down stream. So plug in a light and test all of them. On those that don't work reset the breaker on the outlet.

If the problem goes away after resetting and does not come back, it may have been a one time issue. If the problem persists , or resetting does not work, you really should get a marine electrician involved. A 110 problem can cause a fire, or electrocute someone.

Henry


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Henry, Thanks. I got back down there. I figured it was a GFI just couldn't find the one for aft outlets. Finally found it or remembered it was in the cabinet in the head. Thanks for keeping me thinking.
 
My blower would not come on last night. It would sound like it was going to but wouldn't. The green lights on the switch pad would not come on either. Then I checked the anchor switch on the right switch pad and it would not come on either. Everything else works. I had to replace the rear EIM last August. Could this be happening again? Last yr it was completely dead. Last night I could hear a clicking sound when I push the switch pad buttons. Is there any kind of fuse that might do this. Also, has anybody thought of doing away with the EIM's and doing a power block with toggle switches?
 
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Anyone had the pleasure of removing a V8 with the twin 5.0 setup. Trying to mentally prepare myself.

Can it be done with engine cover still on? How bout aft bolster? Load leveler?
 
Anyone had the pleasure of removing a V8 with the twin 5.0 setup. Trying to mentally prepare myself.

Can it be done with engine cover still on? How bout aft bolster? Load leveler?

Not the 5.0, but I watched my boatyard pull the 496 out of Bella to swap out the transom assembly.

If you remove the transom seat at the hinge and disconnect the gas struts, the hatch can be pulled up nearly vertical. Before you take the gas struts off cut a couple 2x4s that will hold the hatch in place positioned so the struts can be removed (you will also want them when it comes time to re-attach them)

I tried to get the bolster off but the fasteners on the port side (above the water heater) are just about impossible to get to, let alone get a wrench on. I think (but not sure) the only way to get to them is to disassemble the battery switch breaker panel compartment. The hatch has to be tied back. We were lucky, Bella has a tow ring. I'm not sure if that was standard equipment.

Be careful getting the hatch back down. It is a multi person job. The gas struts make it very deceptive just how heavy that sucker is. You will need one really big guy (or two normal people) to lower the hatch and a third to put the 2x4s in place.

Henry
 
Thanks for the info, looks like it would work with the lid in a vertical position. Rather not mess with that or the bolster

Developed a big water leak , transom area, below the driveshaft. Can't tell where it's coming in, very very tight in there with twins, Y pipe maybe
 
I got the same thing going on. Water looked like it was dripping from on top of the y pipe coming from the input shaft but it wasnt. I take on some water when I got some people aboard. Turned out to be the upper swivel shaft seal. It was most noticeable when I put 3 guys in the back on the swim platform and you could see how wet the upper part by the steering arm get wet and drip down. Its not much water but enough to make the proper repair (Engine out, new transom assembly) when the season is over. Seemed that replacing the pin and seal was more labor intensive but the price was almost the same to get a brand new assembly and piece of mind.
 
Over the last few weeks, I've noticed I'm beginning to get water into my mid-berth, soaking the cushions. It seems to be coming from the starboard side of the boat, but not quite sure if that is because how it is sitting on a boat lift normally. No trace of water up the sides or the ceiling as I haven't been in there while raining. I also noticed just last night while changing the trash in the can that there is water around the shower sump bilge. I assume that's just where this water that's getting in is going. Any ideas on where it is most likely coming from? Years ago there was a great post on water intrusion in the 280DA and all the places to fix it, but I can't find it...
 
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Over the last few weeks, I've noticed I'm beginning to get water into my mid-berth, soaking the cushions. It seems to be coming from the starboard side of the boat, but not quite sure if that is because how it is sitting on a boat lift normally. No trace of water up the sides or the ceiling as I haven't been in there while raining. I also noticed just last night while changing the trash in the can that there is water around the shower sump bilge. I assume that's just where this water that's getting in is going. Any ideas on where it is most likely coming from? Years ago there was a great post on water intrusion in the 280DA and all the places to fix it, but I can't find it...

Here is the thread I think you were looking for. http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/6516-water-under-aft-berth-on-280DA

It could also be coming in one of the port lights. Those gaskets have been known to leak. Could also be rub rail. You will probably have to get a water hose and case of beer and start troubleshooting.
 
Here is the thread I think you were looking for. http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/6516-water-under-aft-berth-on-280DA

It could also be coming in one of the port lights. Those gaskets have been known to leak. Could also be rub rail. You will probably have to get a water hose and case of beer and start troubleshooting.

My head window had a slight leak and the water would end up around (not in) the sump pump below the garbage can. Leak was fixed and it's been good since. Watch out because if too much water sits in there it will weep up the carpet and then you will have soggy carpet in front of the step, head and fridge.
 
Thanks guys! Jason, yep that's the one. 280SeaRay posted some great info in that thread, exactly what I was trying to find.

Tom
 
Does'nt appear to be any easy way to change the Kohler impellor, without pulling the whole pump, with those 2 allenhead screws. Uglyness
 
Does'nt appear to be any easy way to change the Kohler impellor, without pulling the whole pump, with those 2 allenhead screws. Uglyness

The only time I ever removed the pump was if the impeller actually shredded on me and I have to clear the rubber pieces out of the pump and hoses. Even then, you don't remove the allen head screws, only the 4 bolts that hold the pump cover and pump in. You would also need to remove the inlet and outlet hoses.

For a regular PM change you should not have to remove the pump at all, only the 4 bolts that hold the cover on the pump. Was not the easiest thing to do but not too bad given some of the other tasks. Just rub Dawn on the impeller while pushing in and turn it until the slotted shaft lines up and it will go right in. I used to tap the start button on the front of the genny while holding on to the impeller, once I got it in, just to get the vanes seated right. The Dawn residue will hold the o-ring in place, put the cover back on and tighten the bolts. The ideal tool for this repair on the 280, given the close proximity to the holding tank, would be a ratcheting box wrench. Don't remember the bolt head size right off.
 
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Unfortunately for me only 2 of the 4 bolts will come out of the cover, black water tank is in the way
 
I can only fully remove 3 out of the 4 bolts. The last one stays in place but allows the cover to drop down and out of the way. I think most 280's are like that.
 
Does anyone know what the size of the anchor that is standard on the 280DA is? Would it be considered a Delta style? Reason I ask is I lost mine this past weekend, right at the chain/rode splice. I'm pretty certain that last link rusted away and finally gave way. :smt009 So....I need to purchase another, and new chain also. I'm looking at this 22lb. one that I've heard a lot of good things about on this forum: http://www.marinepartdepot.com/wibeshau28.html . I also need new chain...any idea what type of chain I need to be compatible with the Lofran Marlin windlass, and I good place to purchase from?
 
Does anyone know what the size of the anchor that is standard on the 280DA is? Would it be considered a Delta style? Reason I ask is I lost mine this past weekend, right at the chain/rode splice. I'm pretty certain that last link rusted away and finally gave way. :smt009 So....I need to purchase another, and new chain also. I'm looking at this 22lb. one that I've heard a lot of good things about on this forum: http://www.marinepartdepot.com/wibeshau28.html . I also need new chain...any idea what type of chain I need to be compatible with the Lofran Marlin windlass, and I good place to purchase from?

You will need to use a Kodiak 22/25lb plow anchor if you want it to seat correctly in the anchor chute. Not saying that no other anchor out there will work but many here have had problems getting various other styles/brands to fit properly on the 2000ish era cruisers. See the details I posted in Post#8 of this thread- http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/61247-Check-your-anchor-swivel

I have seen a Delta anchor "work" on a 280 but it did not seat correctly in the chute.
 
Imtra in New Bedford Ma. 508-995-7000. They have a real good price on what your looking for
 
Thanks Jason. The anchor I had was always good to me, so I want to replace it with the same. I assume it was the original one that came on the boat... Unfortunately I didn't pay much attention to its exact style, though it sure looked like a Delta. The Delta style and plow style seem to be very similar...are they basically one in the same?
 

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