Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[Bucit]

So basically Sea Ray just shrunk the boats and maybe did not "increase" the prices?
/QUOTE]

You're kidding right? Of course they raised the prices. Older boats had bolt on swim platforms that were not included in the actual length but it was included in the overall length. Jump a few years and the swoim platform is now integrated with the hull )all one piece) so no they call it "X" feet. The actual user space became smaller and yes you do pay more for it. On top of that, the insurance is more and so is registration (if you have to register your boat).

 

[Gunn]

I have finally removed the old CRT TV/VCR integrated unit and would like to make a replacement door for that cabinet location. Does anyone know if/where I can get some of the "cherry" veneer to glue to a new plywood door? Or do you know of a place that makes these doors?

I'm a hobbyist woodworker, so have no trouble creating the door. But have never seen this type of veneer available anywhere I have shopped before. And I think I'd be hard pressed to match it perfectly using cherry plywood. If I can't match it, I'll probably just make a black door to somewhat match everything else.

 

[Gunn]

First season on my 280. Looking for ideas on which grill is best fit and mounting ideas. Considering round Magma using rod holder mount. Could place clamp on rod holder to the transom locker door. I would remove and store after use. Open to any ideas or pictures.

Here's one idea...for a rectangular Magma grill. I am also using a rod holder, but a flush mount one. I added one to each side of the transom locker door. Works great, and very versatile!

Tom

 

[Tonka Boater]

I have finally removed the old CRT TV/VCR integrated unit and would like to make a replacement door for that cabinet location. Does anyone know if/where I can get some of the "cherry" veneer to glue to a new plywood door? Or do you know of a place that makes these doors?

I'm a hobbyist woodworker, so have no trouble creating the door. But have never seen this type of veneer available anywhere I have shopped before. And I think I'd be hard pressed to match it perfectly using cherry plywood. If I can't match it, I'll probably just make a black door to somewhat match everything else.

Gary (Four Suns) had a post awhile back about his TV/entertainment center upgrade and I recall that he named a source for the cherry veneer. I thought I bookmarked the thread or the vendor site because I plan to do what you did --- however, I can't find the bookmarks. Send Gary a PM and ask where he got his then post it here for the rest of us. I don't have a need for the TV anymore with my iPad and that space could be some well needed storage.

 

[Gunn]

Gary (Four Suns) had a post awhile back about his TV/entertainment center upgrade and I recall that he named a source for the cherry veneer. I thought I bookmarked the thread or the vendor site because I plan to do what you did --- however, I can't find the bookmarks. Send Gary a PM and ask where he got his then post it here for the rest of us. I don't have a need for the TV anymore with my iPad and that space could be some well needed storage.

Thanks, I did find a post dated to 2009 that mentioned that the material was Vitricore. It was discontinued sometime in the early 2000's, but not sure exactly when. The same company then created Nuvacor, which is still used today, and they have matches for the original material. Now if only I can only get my hands on just a couple of square feet...!

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/18135-Cherry-Wood-Veneer-Surface?p=215210#post215210

http://www.nuvacor.com/default2.html

 

[themikehyde]

Has anyone wondered why both bilge pumps are at the front of the bilge? Seems like it takes almost 3" of water at the back to be able to pump anything out. I just dont like that water sitting back there so end up sponging it out.

 

[scoflaw]

Has anyone wondered why both bilge pumps are at the front of the bilge? Seems like it takes almost 3" of water at the back to be able to pump anything out. I just dont like that water sitting back there so end up sponging it out.

X2 on that one. Salt water sloshing around isn't good for anything, especially that steel oil pan.

Talked to a Rule tech yesterday. He says an inline valve causes the pump to cavitate. He suggested a vented loop. With twin 5's there is no way to get back there to install. I might jam some rubber stoppers in the thru hulls while cruising.

If the pump was by the drain plug you wouldn't be able to service it.

Looking for other options. This water has to stop

 

[jason78]

Talked to a Rule tech yesterday. He says an inline valve causes the pump to cavitate. He suggested a vented loop. With twin 5's there is no way to get back there to install. I might jam some rubber stoppers in the thru hulls while cruising.

Looking for other options. This water has to stop

There is already a loop in the bilge pump lines. You can see the loops right after they attach to the thru hull fittings. Apparently they do not work all that well. If you don't want to use inline valves, I believe Johnson Pump makes a decent bilge pump with an integrated check valve. Not sure why the Rule pumps let water back in like they do.

 

[themikehyde]

I never liked my pump hoses running from the front of the bilge to the back, then over the stringer, under the starboard engine, then up. When i was repowering last august, i reran them from the pump, over the stringer, up between the genny and holding tank, then along the genny exhaust to the thru hulls. I tested the pumps by putting then in water and it seemed to flow ok. My next change will be to replace the corrugated tubing with something less restrictive.

 

[scoflaw]

There is already a loop in the bilge pump lines. You can see the loops right after they attach to the thru hull fittings.

But it's not a vented loop with a duckbill. Rule pn #261.

Still no way to get in there to install. A duckbill is a valve, so why does that work and not an inline one?

 

[kkalsch]

I know there has probably been a thread about this ...but I could not find it. The aluminum trim piece that goes around all the storage doors in the cockpit area are starting to bubble and the paint is flaking off. The surveyor said that was common with Sea Rays and he has personal repainted them by striping the old paint off then priming them with a zinc primer and then painting them with Rustoleum epoxy paint for appliances - has anyone done that?

PS. I changed both my shift cables this spring to the new style cable from Mercrusier and the Alpha Drive shifts almost as smooth as the Bravo!! Also a common mistake is that cable that runs from the transom to the shift plate has to be free and clear -no zip ties to something else or mounted to the transom -that cable moves

 

[Henry Boyd]

I know there has probably been a thread about this ...but I could not find it. The aluminum trim piece that goes around all the storage doors in the cockpit area are starting to bubble and the paint is flaking off. The surveyor said that was common with Sea Rays and he has personal repainted them by striping the old paint off then priming them with a zinc primer and then painting them with Rustoleum epoxy paint for appliances - has anyone done that?

PS. I changed both my shift cables this spring to the new style cable from Mercrusier and the Alpha Drive shifts almost as smooth as the Bravo!! Also a common mistake is that cable that runs from the transom to the shift plate has to be free and clear -no zip ties to something else or mounted to the transom -that cable moves

The frames are powder coated aluminum. I stripped mine over the 2010/2011 winter. Once they are stripped they have to be sanded to remove the pitting (aluminum oxide). You really have to get that off, or the bubbling will come right back. Using zinc primer is not effective as a primer meant for aluminum. (Zinc Rich primer followed by an epoxy top coat is the classic marine coating system for steel). A primer meant for aluminum will provide better adhesion. I went to our local paint store and had them color match the old frame in a metal solvent based enamel. We are going into the second season and they are doing aok (including the one I stuck a big ole thumb print on).

The manufacturer of the frames is Teak Isle. They will sell you a replacement frame (or entire door) if you can get their part number (they also have an online catalog in pdf form so you can download and look up). I seem to recall the frames were like $ 55 each, but don't hold me to that. I have the contact info somewhere PM me if you want to follow that route, and I'll dig it out.

Henry

 

[Nehalennia]

Mine are doing it too and I'm thinking of removing them, ecoating them. It's perfect for aluminum and I can then powdercoat them white.
I learned about this new process from the powdercoater I used for Pietro's engine vents I made for him.

 

[Mfortune]

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why my gauge panel isn't working, but everything else works fine. I posted my question, but haven't heard a peep from this talkative group. Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?
We are going on a 60 mile trip on Friday and I'd really like to get this resolved ASAP.

 

[scoflaw]

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why my gauge panel isn't working, but everything else works fine. I posted my question, but haven't heard a peep from this talkative group. Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?
We are going on a 60 mile trip on Friday and I'd really like to get this resolved ASAP.

Must not be a common problem. Time to bust out the volt meter and the wireing diagram

 

[Nehalennia]

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why my gauge panel isn't working, but everything else works fine. I posted my question, but haven't heard a peep from this talkative group. Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?
We are going on a 60 mile trip on Friday and I'd really like to get this resolved ASAP.

This is a fast moving thread and the issue you're having is not specific to the 280DA. I think if you post the info in a new thread you can get a ton of replies to help you get back in action.

 

[scoflaw]

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why my gauge panel isn't working, but everything else works fine. I posted my question, but haven't heard a peep from this talkative group. Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?
We are going on a 60 mile trip on Friday and I'd really like to get this resolved ASAP.

Looks like that harness plugs in at the engines. Anybody been messin around back there or under the dash? Sounds like it got disconnected. Push,pull and wiggle those connections

 

[Bucit]

Did I forget to submit annual dues or something?

Since your new to the site (and your boat) you will find countless hours of good information that will save you thousands of dollars over time. The annual due of $20 or more is well worth it. You won't get faster repsonses but it does keep the site alive!

 

[Mfortune]

Thanks guys. I'll check the connections. It is just a bit weird because the only thing that happened between the night when we set anchor and leaving in the morning was that 2 adults, 3 children, and 1 jack russel actually had a peaceful nights sleep. No one even opened the engine hatch or the access panel below the dash. Oh well, it is a boat and things happen.
Bucit, I was just kidding about the annual dues = quick response. I thought it would at least stir up some response, which it did. Also, I'm not sure why you assumed I'm new to the boat or the site, I've had the boat for 4 years and been on this site since March of 2009 (you can see each persons join date in the top right of each post). Not trying to bust your chops, it is just that assumptions drive me NUTS!! You are right though, the site if full of great information and can save thousands of $$$ but more importantly to me hours and hours and hours.

 

[kkalsch]

The frames are powder coated aluminum. I stripped mine over the 2010/2011 winter. Once they are stripped they have to be sanded to remove the pitting (aluminum oxide). You really have to get that off, or the bubbling will come right back. Using zinc primer is not effective as a primer meant for aluminum. (Zinc Rich primer followed by an epoxy top coat is the classic marine coating system for steel). A primer meant for aluminum will provide better adhesion. I went to our local paint store and had them color match the old frame in a metal solvent based enamel. We are going into the second season and they are doing aok (including the one I stuck a big ole thumb print on).

The manufacturer of the frames is Teak Isle. They will sell you a replacement frame (or entire door) if you can get their part number (they also have an online catalog in pdf form so you can download and look up). I seem to recall the frames were like $ 55 each, but don't hold me to that. I have the contact info somewhere PM me if you want to follow that route, and I'll dig it out.

Henry

Thanks Henry,
I painted one last night and I used the zinc rich primer and the epoxy appliance paint-it came out ok -the epoxy paint dries real slow -so you got a thumb print and I got a few flies......