Official 240 Sundancer Thread

bob said:
Dave S said:
jg300da said:
Ok, it's becoming painfully obvious the more I drive this boat, that it simply does not like a lot of trim tab. If I have the tabs down to get on plane I must immediately raise them or else spend the next 10 minutes constantly tweaking them. I measured them and found they were the same size as the ones on my 300DA. This translates into a major result with the smallest of adjustments. The boat seems to be very stable on plane with both tabs retracted, but when they're both deployed it's almost as if the hull is not allowed to track properly. I'm wondering if anyone else is experiencing this?

The 260DA behaves exactly the same way. I thought I was doing something wrong on my 260DA when I first got it and tried to use the tabs in what I would call a "conventional" way such as you describe on your previous 300DA. There are two things I found over a period of time that is key on these small pocket cruisers. The first is never deploy the tabs to get on plane or it will drive you nuts (which you found out) trying to adjust the tabs. The second thing is trim your drive high enough as you come on plane to get the boat to straighten out as much as it will without the use of tabs. If you don't trim the drive high enough, the boat will lean to starboard more than it should. Once you are on plane with your drive trimmed properly, then use your tabs for the final side to side balancing.

The only exceptions to what I am saying is if you want to cruise at speeds that will take you off plane. In that situation, get up to your desired speed and then without touching the throttle start adjusting the tabs until the bow comes down..................just remember that when it's time to speed up, first retract the tabs fully or you will find the boat trying to lay over badly as you are accelerating.

Could you be a bit more specific about your terminology? When you say to "deploy" the vanes, does that mean the vanes are in the full down position prior to movement? The same goes for" retraction"--does that mean to bring them to the full down or up?

Most sources, including the SeaRay Owner's Manual, recommend putting both trim tabs to the full down position to get up on plane faster, yet you say "never" to use them.

Deploy means to put them down. Retract means to bring them up level so they have no affect at all. And all I can say Bob is you should try it both ways and you decide.

I struggled with the tabs and the drive trim for a long time and got pretty darn frustrated. It was like night and day when I learned the boats handle much better without using the tabs to come on plane. Couple that by trimming the drive up to a point where the boat levels off side to side when under plane and you will see exactly what I mean.
 
Electrical Question

Today, I get to launch my 240 for the 1st time! Last night, I installed two new batteries and checked out the boat's electrical systems and have a couple of questions you other owners can help me out with.

1) The DC circuit breakers, (located in the "entertainment center," below the main battery switch), all seem to be permamently in the "ON" position--is this normal? I realize those breakers are for the "hot battery" items such as the bilge, radio memory, etc, but shouldn't those rocker switches work between ON and OFF?

2) There are two rocker-type light switches in the V-berth, just above and to the left of the entrance to the mid-cabin. One of them appears to be a master light switch for all the cabin lights. The other switch, according to the owner's manual, lists it as a "step light." Where is this light? Can anyone tell me what it's used for?

3) Prior to the delivery of the boat, I had a Fire Boy automatic fire extinguisher installed in the engine compartment. I would assume this is tied into one of the "hot battery buss" items; however, the monitor light comes on as soon as I turn the master battery switch on. On my previous boat, that monitor light would come on only if the engine's ignition switch was switched to the ON position. Is this normal or did the boatyard screw it up?
 
Re: Electrical Question

bob said:
1) The DC circuit breakers, (located in the "entertainment center," below the main battery switch), all seem to be permamently in the "ON" position--is this normal? I realize those breakers are for the "hot battery" items such as the bilge, radio memory, etc, but shouldn't those rocker switches work between ON and OFF?

Om mine (2007) the DC breakers are below the AC breakers and they all can be turned off and on. If they are all on, all the time, my batteries will go dead unless the charger is on (AC) because the fridge would be on, as well as the pressure pump for the onboard water, which I don't want pressurized if I'm not around to monitor for leaks.
 
Re: Electrical Question

bob said:
2) There are two rocker-type light switches in the V-berth, just above and to the left of the entrance to the mid-cabin. One of them appears to be a master light switch for all the cabin lights. The other switch, according to the owner's manual, lists it as a "step light." Where is this light? Can anyone tell me what it's used for?

Om mine, the two rocker switches on the wall as you describe control different berth lights. If it is the step light, that would be under the steps where the waste basket is located.
 
Finally Received Boat

As purchased:

2007 240DA
Camper Top
Fresh Water Cooling
5.0L MI BR3 260 HP
Gel-Coat
Transom Trim Switch
Cockpit Table
Snap In Liners
Interior Runners
TV/DVD
Wet Bar with Sink
Black Hull
Butane Stove
Vaccu Flush
Macerator
Bottom Paint

The boat was in stock. About the only I might change would be to use a bigger engine. The only thing of significance that has been wrong with the boat is snaps on the top don't line up.

Stuff that I am adding and have ordered already:


Radio

ICOM M304 Radio (mount lower left corner) http://www.icomamerica.com/products/marine/m304/default.asp
Shakespeare 5225 XP Antenna http://shakespeare-marine.com/catalog/galaxy.pdf
Shakespeare 5187 Ratch Mount http://shakespeare-marine.com/mountshow.asp?findmount=5187
ICOM MB 69 Flush Mount Kit http://www.icomamerica.com/products/marine/m304/options.asp

GPS/Chartplotter

Garmin 545S w/o transducer 010-00602-00 (mount upper left corner) https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=150&pID=8109
Garmin GA 29 Antenna (mount fwd of compass) https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=110&pID=7650
Garmin 5XX Flush Mount Kit https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=8718
Garmin g2 2CA500L Puget Sound to Port Hardy Maps (I like maps) http://www8.garmin.com/cartography/g2vision/
Garmin B60 Tilted Bronze Thru-Hull 6 Pin Transducer- 20 Degrees http://www.starmarinedepot.com/Garmin+B60+Tilted+Bronze+Thru-Hull+6+Pin.html (exact location needs to be detemined, probably to right of existing transducer on 18 degree dead rise-nice thing about the B60 is no fairing is required)

Rod Holder


Add Searay Rod Holders on aft gunwales

Name

"Mango Mama" My wifes nickname. One way to give yourself a boat for father's day and have your wife feel good about it is to name it after her. :grin:

Other things under consideration :huh:

Auto-Leveler

Bennett Auto Leveler AC2000 (one of two things the Searay service rep recommended. He said indicators are not needed) (Wait until I see if I need) http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/autotab.htm

Heaters

Aftermarket heater (wait to see if I need here in Northwest-the other thing the service guy recommended)

Grill

Haven't decided yet


This message board has been great for helping sort through things. Thanks to everyone...

:smt038:
 
No AC? Not sure where you do your boating, but if you're going to overnight at a marina, you will find AC is a must. Just my opinion of course...

Congrats, sounds great.
 
AC in the Northwest

We have builit in AC called the Puget Sound with 50 degree waters...
 
Hey Dude,

We just bought a 2007 240 DA and we just got back a few hours ago from another great day of boating. We had pretty rough 2-4 foot seas and wind but we just took it easy and had a great day snorkeling, boat watching, and sightseeing.

Ours didn't have the exact same set up, my wife wanted the black really bad but it would have been a delay to get it. We have the pump-out potty and wish we had the set up you got.

TV! didn't know that was an option! What kind of TV and where does it go? Do you get a place to plug in at the marina?

What's "Fresh Water Cooling"?
 
Fresh Water Cooling or FWC on engines (or generators) is a system that cools the engine block and manifolds with coolant instead of raw (sea) water. This helps with corrosion and engine life. Versus a raw water cooled engine where all components are cooled with sea water.

On a FWC engine, you still use sea water to cool the risers, elbows and heat exchangers, but the key component (engine block) is coolant cooled.

FWC is more desireable in salt water, and not as critical (but still desireable) in fresh water.

If your engine is raw water cooled, there are after market kits to make it FWC.

An alternative to FWC (or even a complement), is to add a flush kit to your engine so you can run fresh water from a garden hose after each outing.

Esteban
 
Re: Finally Received Boat

The Dude said:
As purchased:


GPS/Chartplotter

Garmin 545S w/o transducer 010-00602-00 (mount upper left corner) https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=150&pID=8109
Garmin GA 29 Antenna (mount fwd of compass) https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=110&pID=7650
Garmin 5XX Flush Mount Kit https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=8718
Garmin g2 2CA500L Puget Sound to Port Hardy Maps (I like maps) http://www8.garmin.com/cartography/g2vision/
Garmin B60 Tilted Bronze Thru-Hull 6 Pin Transducer- 20 Degrees http://www.starmarinedepot.com/Garmin+B60+Tilted+Bronze+Thru-Hull+6+Pin.html (exact location needs to be detemined, probably to right of existing transducer on 18 degree dead rise-nice thing about the B60 is no fairing is required)


Other things under consideration :huh:

Auto-Leveler

Bennett Auto Leveler AC2000 (one of two things the Searay service rep recommended. He said indicators are not needed) (Wait until I see if I need) http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/autotab.htm

Heaters

Aftermarket heater (wait to see if I need here in Northwest-the other thing the service guy recommended)

Grill

Haven't decided yet


This message board has been great for helping sort through things. Thanks to everyone...

:smt038:

Hey I have the same identical setup boat wise....Ditch the GPS antenna, you do not need it. I flush mounted my 545S and it receives all 5 bars of Sat reception. Seems like Garmin did some sort of "magic" with their new line. I had bought the antenna, but did not install it. I did the GPS install myself and tested at the house and noticed full reception. I thought that was odd, then I went out on the water and never lost a sat! I would try the GPS and see how it works for you, you can always come back and install the antenna.

As for the Bennett ATC, look at these: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...758/0/0/Bennet/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0

These are the newer AC3000. I called Bennett and they should be available at the end of the summer. They discontinued the AC2000.

Heater???? What on earth for?!!? Just kidding, I'm in Miami....

Grill - I got the Magma Marine Kettle 2 Party Size....But at BoatersWorld it's 189.00 there...

Regards....
 
Went out on our first long cruise since we purchased new last Aug. 200 miles round trip. Two adults, full water, mostly full fuel tank, cruised at 28-30 mph and 4000 rpm. used 85.5 gallons of fuel for around 2.34 mpg. Not too bad, but I was hoping for closer to 3 mpg. How does this stack up to the rest of the 240's?
 
Half off;

your about dead on i normally run between 3800-4000 at about 27-30 MPH and average 2.5MPG.

Funny thing I've found since I started filling up the boat from the street using 87 gas instead of the marina 89 is I get better gas milage. Gas prices just got to high for me when they broke $3.50 a gallon so I bought a 25 gallon gas caddy and now lug it to the Gas station. Seems like everyone in my neighborhood is doing the same thing now. It takes a couple of trips to fill the Tank after the weekend fun, but I save over $20 everytime I fill the caddy up.
 
tphinney,

Thanks for the reply. I thought about the gas caddy but then we would have to drive the truck the 2 1/2 hours to the boat every weekend so I could carry the caddy. We take the car for almost 3 times the mileage compared to the truck so I'll just have to pay the marine prices for fuel.
 
The largest differential in marina/street prices I've ever seen is .50 cents per gallon. That would make the largest savings possible with the gas caddy $12.50. A far cry from $20.00. Even then, you have to hump 150 pounds of fuel around, transport it in your car to get to the marina (without spilling any), elevate it somehow to get flow into your tank, and after all that you've got 25 gallons?
Seems like a lot of trouble and potential for spilled fuel to save a few bucks. Just one guys opinion.
 
Another concern with gas caddys is that it may violate marina rules. My marina for example does not allow them.

Esteban
 
With having your boat in the driveway, I can see where it wouldn't be that much of a problem. Just getting a fill up on the way home from work then getting home and dumping it in. But, with having my boat at a marina just as estebanj stated I would get kicked out. So, I guess I'll just keep on paying the price... :huh:
 
The nearest fill up for me on the water is BaySide Marina and these jokers are charging from $.90 to $1.20 more than whats on the street. they have no competion on the upper bay so they feel they can and do charge whatever they want.

even then I still have to go about 10 miles down the bay just to fill it up, if I there at all. It used to be worth while to top the tank off and get pumped out; but now their pump out is out of service.

So being that my boat is parked on a lift behind the house. I'll do the 2 trips to the local gas station. it's really not that bad especially when I look across the channel and see my neighbor hauling a 55 Gallon drum out to his dock everytime he takes his Baja out.
 
Storage in Engine Compartment

Hi everyone!

I was wondering what people thought about storing stuff in the engine compartment. We plan an taking long trips (1 to 2 weeks) a couple times a year in the Puget Sound here in the Northwest and would like to make use of the space. My experience is with boats with outboards.

Is there any problem with storing stuff down there? Does it get too hot? :smt017:

Some stuff I know will be fine such as an extra anchor, bilge pump, tools, etc.

What about downriggers, grills, fishing rods, chairs, etc?

Does anyone have pictures of how they fits their stuff in (brackets, etc)?

I am also looking into bringing along a blow up dinghy that I would store in the sleep quarters. Where do people store the engine and fuel tank? I know alot of people store the dinghy on divits. But with our inclination to fish I don't the back of the boat taken up. Is it a big no no to put it down below? I assume so.

What about security? If you store a bunch of stuff down there, do people put locks on the engine compartment?
 
This is a great forum, I have been reading for 2+ hours all 22 pages.

I own a 2002 240 SunDancer w/a 260Hp BIII 22 pitch props.
I bought it brand new in late July 07 and now have 260 hours and keep the "Family Feud" on a trailer inside a buddy's boat barn less than 1/2 mile from the boat ramp at my home lake in Wilmington VT.

My wife & I just got back from a 3 day weekend on Lake George, NY. We stayed aboard and had a great long weekend.


I have lots of questions and recomendations and will be a regular here.

Thanks
John
 
Hey Shining

Glad to see someone here within a couple hours of me.

Have you heard anything about Sea Ray's AquaPalooza on your lake???

I Think its the 21st of July.

I have been wanting to get out your way any nice places to drop the hook?

How about Motels close to the Ramp and decent ramps?

any recomendations and tips you have would be greatly apprecaited.
 

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