Official 240 Sundancer Thread

No, not the AC (120v), but the 12V leads that run to the batteries. These leads are part of the harness. If I change the charger, the 12V leads are not long enough to connected them to a new charger. So i thought of bypassing the harness and run them directly to the batteries (with a line fuse)
 
jellyfish said:
No, not the AC (120v), but the 12V leads that run to the batteries. These leads are part of the harness. If I change the charger, the 12V leads are not long enough to connected them to a new charger. So i thought of bypassing the harness and run them directly to the batteries (with a line fuse)
Click to expand...

I assume the "harness" you mention is the 12V wiring in smurf tubing(Split sided plastic corregated tubing).
If so, peel back that smurf tubing and see if the leads are longer and may be tie strapped back for a clean install.
 
Or just extend the cables instead of bypassing the factory wiring.
 
Hi All! I just found and joined this site. I have a 2001 240 DA. I am looking to add a couple of rod holders for so I can do some offshore trolling...the only place I can see to mount them is the rail on the trunk on the back of the boat?? Any other suggestions? Can this be done? Or should I have some installed in the hull?

Thanks, Tom
 
on my '03 240DA, i had them mounted in the gunnells. You have to cut into the fiberglass with a hole saw, but its pretty easy and looks nice when its done. I put one on each side. Looked nice too. You can also use them for boat grills when there isnt a fishing rod in them. :)

Mike
 
1. I have water surrounding the subpump under the stairs. I have had it in the shop several times with no fix and they can't figure it out. They have replaced the subpump box but that didn't do anything. Any help would be appreciated.

2. Went out this weekend and the running lights didn't work. I messed with the fuses and got them to turn on. What I discovered was that all the fuses are only pushed in half way and if you push them in all the way the circuit will short out. Has anyone experienced this?
 
Fishnut said:
1. I have water surrounding the subpump under the stairs. I have had it in the shop several times with no fix and they can't figure it out. They have replaced the subpump box but that didn't do anything. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
I had a small leak around the drain in the head. Water would collect around the sump box.
I resealed and no leak. Might not be your problem, but worth a look. Dump a gallon jug of water on floor around drain, use a flashlight under step and look for leaks.
Good luck!
 
Shining said:
I had a small leak around the drain in the head. Water would collect around the sump box.
I resealed and no leak. Might not be your problem, but worth a look. Dump a gallon jug of water on floor around drain, use a flashlight under step and look for leaks.
Good luck!
Click to expand...


Thanks, I will try that. I am thinking of removing the piece around the step and it should give me a better look. I have the newer style with a pole so I think I should be able to pull it off. My plan is to cover it with the same material that is on the first step or with the Plasdeck so that would be a good time to pull it all off.
 
MAKC said:
on my '03 240DA, i had them mounted in the gunnells. You have to cut into the fiberglass with a hole saw, but its pretty easy and looks nice when its done. I put one on each side. Looked nice too. You can also use them for boat grills when there isnt a fishing rod in them. :)

Mike
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture of your install.
 
Fishnut said:
Do you have a picture of your install.
Click to expand...
Here's a couple pics. for you.
I use them for fishing poles, grill, and sometimes flying my Jolly Roger:smt001
100_3186.jpg


pokerrun.jpg
 
Last summer I posted here, complaining about my mascerator being unable to pump effectively. Some of you reacted by "flaming" me for having such a device in the first place. I'd like to set the record straight the boat, (bought used), came from the factory that way: Porta-pottie plumbed into a mascerator. I never used it as the pump never worked satsifactorily, and if it did, it would have been past the 3-mile offshore boundary--the same as what my previous Sea Ray had. For you who boat on inland waters, it may be hard for you to understand this has been the "norm" for quite a few years--at least on a boat the size of a 240 on the ocean--that's why this was a standard installation until several years ago.

Right now, I'm resigned to the fact this pump isn't worth the hassle of repair. Also, a "no-discharge zone" has been established close by (but not within my normal cruising area). The handwriting is on the wall that eventually my area of operations will also become a no-discharge zone. So, now I'd like to convert to a more eco-friendly solution: a head with a holding tank.

Has anyone made the transition in their 240 using the vacuflush system, or any other sanitation set up? If so, what were the costs? Is this a DIY installation or should I be looking at a boat mechanic or yard to do the work?
 
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Bob I'd say it depends on how comfortable you are at swinging a hammer and drilling into gel coat. It would require you to run some tubing, modifying bulkheads, drilling holes, sealing voids, performing light electrical hook ups, installing switches and power leads. That's only if you don't have to move anything to place the holding tank. Big job but not undoable. You have to ask yourself...do I have the patients...the skill...well do I punk?
Just having fun. Knock it out, all you can do is jack everything up and have to take it to a qualified person to bail you out. Can you take the ribbing you'll get if you do mess up?
 
Wow, you make it sound like a daunting proposal. I'm probably an optimist since the installed porta-pottie already has a vent line, pump-out line and another line to the mascerator pump already installed. Thought I could just install the toilet and run the existing line to the mascerator to the vacuflush pump, then to the holding tank. I'd then have to re-route the pump-out line. Hmmm, maybe this might be more than I bargained for. Wonder how much it would cost to have it done by a professional?
 
Fishnut said:
1. I have water surrounding the subpump under the stairs. I have had it in the shop several times with no fix and they can't figure it out. They have replaced the subpump box but that didn't do anything. Any help would be appreciated.

2. Went out this weekend and the running lights didn't work. I messed with the fuses and got them to turn on. What I discovered was that all the fuses are only pushed in half way and if you push them in all the way the circuit will short out. Has anyone experienced this?
Click to expand...

1- If you have a/c on your boat check condensor drain and all the pressurised water lines going into your head and galley.

2- If your boat is still under warranty get the fuse box replaced... Sounds like a fire waiting to happen.
 
Mike straighten your antenna out before Gary sees this.(see mine, mine leans in and I haven't redone it with the shims he suggested yet). Somehow it's not on to high on my priority list.
 
RiverRat said:
1- If you have a/c on your boat check condensor drain and all the pressurised water lines going into your head and galley.

2- If your boat is still under warranty get the fuse box replaced... Sounds like a fire waiting to happen.
Click to expand...


We have already replaced the subpump and box. Air conditioning condensor line redone. I am moving on to bathroom sink and hose. I am removing the step and having the top finished with Flexiteek. So hopefully I kill two birds with one stone.

I called Searay today and they aren't answering their phones. The phone message says they are closed. I checked with a trusted source that claims they should be open. But you never know maybe they decided to mail it in. :huh:

The fuse box thing has me baffled. Something is really amiss there. For whatever the warranty is worth I'm still covered.

:smt100:wow:
 
Fishnut said:
We have already replaced the subpump and box. Air conditioning condensor line redone. I am moving on to bathroom sink and hose. I am removing the step and having the top finished with Flexiteek. So hopefully I kill two birds with one stone.


The fuse box thing has me baffled. Something is really amiss there. For whatever the warranty is worth I'm still covered.

:smt100:wow:
Click to expand...

Fish,
Anything new on these issues?
We also had water around (outside) the cabin sumpbox. I found the problem to be the blackplastic drainhose from the head/shower drain; it was cracked were it clamped to the sumpbox. I replaced it with some rubber hottub tubing I found at the local hardware store.
 
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