Official 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 Thread

Garintheair said:
The FD501 engine was produced to Kohler specs and, while similar to other engines used in equipment, are not the same. The major differences seem to be the tapered crankshaft and governor control used on the Kohler gensets. Of course the heat exchanger and wiring harness are Kohler items only. Gaskets are common Kawasaki parts except for a couple on the spark arrestor side.

The Kawasaki carburetor is the same as on the generator; it is only "marine safe" due to the spark arrestor on the generator.

My 1995 290 was also originally salt water but looks pristine compared to the pic you posted. It looks like the PO simply let the elements have their way...
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Yep, thanks Garin, so if I read it right I can just get a new carb and the spark arrestor will be good? And yes, the good thing about the PO was he kept in trailered for most of it’s life the Gen only has 200 hrs on it which we all know can also be a bad thing machines that sit deteriorate quickly. It’s all good being in fresh water on lake Norman will help tremendously. Eating the elephant one bite at a time, I’ll post ER pictures once I get it cleaned up to my specs.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
Yep, thanks Garin, so if I read it right I can just get a new carb and the spark arrestor will be good? And yes, the good thing about the PO was he kept in trailered for most of it’s life the Gen only has 200 hrs on it which we all know can also be a bad thing machines that sit deteriorate quickly. It’s all good being in fresh water on lake Norman will help tremendously. Eating the elephant one bite at a time, I’ll post ER pictures once I get it cleaned up to my specs.
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Yes Sir. A Kawasaki carb for that engine will be the same and there are no issues with bolting it up to the original spark arrestor! Rebuild kits are also available from Kawasaki- much cheaper than Kohler- and the only thing which seems to be an issue on these carbs, other than old gas and corrosion like any carb, is the anti diesel solenoid getting stuck. I've been able to free mine and haven't had any issues with it. It does seem that the solenoid magnet is somewhat anemic on them too.

My Kohler has a whopping 28 hours on it! Can we say dock queen...?
 
Garintheair said:
Yes Sir. A Kawasaki carb for that engine will be the same and there are no issues with bolting it up to the original spark arrestor! Rebuild kits are also available from Kawasaki- much cheaper than Kohler- and the only thing which seems to be an issue on these carbs, other than old gas and corrosion like any carb, is the anti diesel solenoid getting stuck. I've been able to free mine and haven't had any issues with it. It does seem that the solenoid magnet is somewhat anemic on them too.

My Kohler has a whopping 28 hours on it! Can we say dock queen...?
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Awesome, thank you sir.
 
Garintheair said:
Yes Sir. A Kawasaki carb for that engine will be the same and there are no issues with bolting it up to the original spark arrestor! Rebuild kits are also available from Kawasaki- much cheaper than Kohler- and the only thing which seems to be an issue on these carbs, other than old gas and corrosion like any carb, is the anti diesel solenoid getting stuck. I've been able to free mine and haven't had any issues with it. It does seem that the solenoid magnet is somewhat anemic on them too.

My Kohler has a whopping 28 hours on it! Can we say dock queen...?
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Nothing wrong with hanging at the dock, my dock mates have told us the 4th is fantastic from the dock, 360 fireworks and no fuel expended!
 
Question everyone: is there a place to store the cockpit table? I have looked around the boat and I don’t see anything. I have found the storage for the short pole and I think the long one goes in the transom locker. I find it to be in the way while underway, but would like to have it while docked. It’s so big and heavy too!
 
Ted Russell said:
Question everyone: is there a place to store the cockpit table? I have looked around the boat and I don’t see anything. I have found the storage for the short pole and I think the long one goes in the transom locker. I find it to be in the way while underway, but would like to have it while docked. It’s so big and heavy too!
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It is very heavy I’m going to order a lighter version from west marine, for mine there is a slide holder in the ER just as you look in by the fuel tank.
 
Ted Russell said:
Question everyone: is there a place to store the cockpit table? I have looked around the boat and I don’t see anything. I have found the storage for the short pole and I think the long one goes in the transom locker. I find it to be in the way while underway, but would like to have it while docked. It’s so big and heavy too!
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On ours, the PO had replaced the OM table with a similar sized wood/teak version but I do have the same problem. It’s great to sit at, looks good and with the short leg in place provides for the large sun pad area ( not that we aver really use that). This season I’m gonna try using the small round table from the forward bunk area (forward space is permanently rigged in bunk mode) instead and keep the big table ashore for a few weeks. If this works well I’ll buy the wood/teak version of the small table.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
It is very heavy I’m going to order a lighter version from west marine, for mine there is a slide holder in the ER just as you look in by the fuel tank.
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Ours also slides into the ER. We mostly use the small round table from the cabin, and then break out the big boy when needed.
 
Garintheair said:
It looks like you'll need the complete choke kit. The part number is GM12236. You'll want to take a seat for the pricing on this one... I just went through the same on my own 5e
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So I just priced out that part number for the choke. Yikes, what other “services” are provided with the kit! $680, so obviously it bolts to the relatively in expensive carb. Service folks called me today and are getting me my cost for trim solenoids and the Gen service including R/R the carb. We'll see how that shakes out. I’ll keep everyone posted. I Love My Boat (I think)
 
Pilot290 said:
On ours, the PO had replaced the OM table with a similar sized wood/teak version but I do have the same problem. It’s great to sit at, looks good and with the short leg in place provides for the large sun pad area ( not that we aver really use that). This season I’m gonna try using the small round table from the forward bunk area (forward space is permanently rigged in bunk mode) instead and keep the big table ashore for a few weeks. If this works well I’ll buy the wood/teak version of the small table.
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Hey Pilot, the Queen and I are working on the same thing (permanently rigged) our folding insert is missing so I was going to use 1/2in plywood are permanently screw it in place. Did you put any storage under it? I’m NOT a cabinet craftsman but I was thinking some easy doors just to be able to use the space and not have it unsightly. We started using the round table as well but found that when I chef it up on the boat we run out of room fast. I’m going to go the SS plate route with some angle iron on the bottom in the ER, think Xmas tree stand. Just to give it support until we get the ER hatch repaired or switched out.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
So I just priced out that part number for the choke. Yikes, what other “services” are provided with the kit! $680, so obviously it bolts to the relatively in expensive carb. Service folks called me today and are getting me my cost for trim solenoids and the Gen service including R/R the carb. We'll see how that shakes out. I’ll keep everyone posted. I Love My Boat (I think)
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That's what I thought, too! Alas, there were no other perks to my order... As I understand it, these were only made for this application and have been out of production for quite awhile; what's out there is all there is. Not very long ago these kits were priced around $135.00. If this isn't gouging I don't know what is.

The choke assembly bolts to the governor plate with two screws-one located under your very rusty heater element base. The elements are available aftermarket for $60 or so but it is included in the choke kit. You might want to take yours completely apart-they're pretty simple when you get into them-and try to clean all of the parts of corrosion. IF it is then salvageable (I have my doubts based on the photo I saw) you might be able to get by with a heater puck alone. I actually like the 5e/7.3e generators as they are pretty simple but the chokes were a weak link mostly due to lack of cleaning and maintenance.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
Hey Pilot, the Queen and I are working on the same thing (permanently rigged) our folding insert is missing so I was going to use 1/2in plywood are permanently screw it in place. Did you put any storage under it? I’m NOT a cabinet craftsman but I was thinking some easy doors just to be able to use the space and not have it unsightly. We started using the round table as well but found that when I chef it up on the boat we run out of room fast. I’m going to go the SS plate route with some angle iron on the bottom in the ER, think Xmas tree stand. Just to give it support until we get the ER hatch repaired or switched out.
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Yes, with the folding insert in place and forward bunk made up we use the space under for the soft bags/personal gear so it’s out of the way. No doors fitted but we do have several blankets (for our Swedish ‘summer nights’) which tastefully draped, hide any untidiness.
I don’t have table storage in the ER but might look into it. Not sure where it goes though as brackets under the hatch may make it heavy and overstress the gas shocks that keep it open. I have no generator (PO removed) so I’ve now taken the mounting frame out. Might be room there, so long as it’s well clear of the precious Belts on the engine. Must say it’s nice to have access to the bilge so need to think this through.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
I Love My Boat (I think)
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When I was looking I had 3 boats to choose from 95, 96, and the 98 all in a row.

Just with the styling changes alone I fell for my 98.

If you bought it correct it's worth some $$$ to fix it up compared to buying a new boat.

For all the $ I've spent in the last 3 year I know it has just added value plus having a boat I can stand up and take a shower is worth every $.

My previous 11 260 DA bought new was a bit tight
 
Little Ducky said:
When I was looking I had 3 boats to choose from 95, 96, and the 98 all in a row.

Just with the styling changes alone I fell for my 98.

If you bought it correct it's worth some $$$ to fix it up compared to buying a new boat.

For all the $ I've spent in the last 3 year I know it has just added value plus having a boat I can stand up and take a shower is worth every $.

My previous 11 260 DA bought new was a bit tight
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I liked the 98 better also, but there weren't any available for $5k lol I've put $10k into my 97 as well as plenty of sweat equity including rebuilding the 454, replacing the transom assembly and updating all the electronics. A very small punch list left. I'm not complaining...
 
HawkX66 said:
I liked the 98 better also, but there weren't any available for $5k lol I've put $10k into my 97 as well as plenty of sweat equity including rebuilding the 454, replacing the transom assembly and updating all the electronics. A very small punch list left. I'm not complaining...
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That's how I ended up with my 1995; original owner twin 4.3's- replaced In 2011 along with gimbal housings- generator, windless, a/c, hot water, new canvas and 2004 trailer. He bought the boat new in 1995 and put another $60k into it over the years.
 
Garintheair said:
That's how I ended up with my 1995; original owner twin 4.3's- replaced In 2011 along with gimbal housings- generator, windless, a/c, hot water, new canvas and 2004 trailer. He bought the boat new in 1995 and put another $60k into it over the years.
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Best way to do it if you can and have the patience. It's also the best way to learn about the systems on your boat so later on when something goes wrong you'll have an idea how to fix it.
 
HawkX66 said:
Best way to do it if you can and have the patience. It's also the best way to learn about the systems on your boat so later on when something goes wrong you'll have an idea how to fix it.
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I don't have the patience these days but I have the space, equipment and know how to repair it. I currently need to pull the port engine and remove the gimbal housing to track down a solid leak. I'm pretty sure that it's from the lower two studs on the housing. I have a clean used housing to replace it with. While I'm in there I'm going to pull the generator and replace it with another one I have. I'd rather be on the water now but such is life.

If I didn't buy this boat with trailer for under $5k I wouldn't want to spend the time and money. It is actually very clean and well equipped otherwise. I've updated some electronics and have a Garmin radar package to install also.

I do like this boat but still wonder if the 1998 and newer hulls are that much better...
 
Little Ducky said:
When I was looking I had 3 boats to choose from 95, 96, and the 98 all in a row.

Just with the styling changes alone I fell for my 98.

If you bought it correct it's worth some $$$ to fix it up compared to buying a new boat.

For all the $ I've spent in the last 3 year I know it has just added value plus having a boat I can stand up and take a shower is worth every $.

My previous 11 260 DA bought new was a bit tight
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I’m just grousing Ducky. It’s all good. I told the Queen whoever gets our boat 10 years from now will get a steal. The tech came back at $130 to fix the relays, $260 to service the GenSet and $260 to R/R the carb. So basically $130 an hour, I’m ok with that. I turned that off the carb until I can figure out the choke. I thought I had the Kohler SM but no, off thread, if you want to see something funny look up IZMO on Conan,

So until I strike gold in my back yard, Can I manually apply the choke and start it in the ER, so I’m not grinding the poor thing to death when I start it? Once warmed up it starts in seconds and I’m sure it’s going to be even better with fresh parts in it.
 
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