Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

VasilisGR said:
Hello everyone... I am about to buy a Sundancer 310 2002 model with 2 X 250 Mecruiser dtronic with Bravo 3s...Is this a good combination for the boat and is there anything particular I should give special attention to about the boat or the engines considering the age?Thank u in advance...
P.S. I live in Greece.
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I have the same size boat when i originally buy the boat it was delivers with twin 7.3 MPI gazer that boat was a pig. I repower it 7 years ago with same engine and drive combinaison you have and Diesel are so much better no comparison, boat is more silent on plane, way more stronger with tons of toque. I could keep it on plane at lower speed like 16-18 MPH and we will stay there. top speed is 43 MPH. The fuel combustion is also lower than any other boat on plane I do less than 10 gallon and hour 20-25 MPH so it cost me between 19-25$ per hour notting could approach it. Big HP is what sell the boat but they mean noting.... torque is what make the boat move....Im boating since more then 20 years now and honestly i would never ever buy another boat with gazer. you could see the transformation on this post http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...avo-3-to-2x-mercruiser-D4-3L-D-tronic-bravo-3
 
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Vida said:
Interesting, 250 hp on this model. Does any one else have the 2000 31 with small engines like these? They seem to be small for the weight of this boat. It would be interesting to know fuel consumption and overall performance with this package. Or is this 2000 model really 29 ft. ?
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You are deadly wrong diesel are different animal, HP mean notting torque rules on a boat 250hp diesel is way stronger than your gazer.
 
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310sundancer said:
250 hp diesels Probably have twice the torque Of my big blocks !
And probably 30% less fuel burn
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Big block have a lot of torque so we dont talk about twice but for sure it have more torque. For the fuel on the other hand we are more talking about 1/5 of what you burn
 
Do you guys Cary a tool set onboard? Any recommendations for must haves that have come in handy?


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Yes, I carry a variety of tools in a bag. I started with a nice organized case, but it has evolved to what I need now (sockets, wrenches, hammer, etc). I also have printed out basic instructions for changing key things: impeller, etc. I also carry a lot of pull tights, leak stop, and the always necessary duct tape :)
 
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2000 310 SA 5.7 V drive oil press loss, engine removal?
Copy and Pasted from Gas Engines
Hi all. I am having a heck of a bad go with my port engine and need some questions answered. I have had some water intrusion on the inner port and starboard cylinders resulting in valve damage. At a minimum I obviously have to pull the heads and repair. When the problem raised its' ugly head, I conducted some in water trouble shooting that resulted in my conclusion that the heads were screwed up. I am capable of repairing the heads in the boat.
While running the engine I got a low oil press warning. I trouble shot this by attaching a mechanical oil pressure gauge and turned the motor over with out plugs in it and did not get any oil pressure. I am afraid the oil pump might have packed it in. The dash gauge indicated zero also throughout. I tested the sender and it seemed functional. If the pump is bad I want to pull the motor out of the boat while in the water.
1. Have I accurately determined the oil pump is shot?
2. Could a bad lifter cause low oil pressure indications?
3. By disconnecting the drive shaft and sliding it aft, will I have enough clearance to pull the engine and tranny up and out? I think it will hit rudder before enough clearance is achieved.
4. If no to 3.can I remove just the motor.?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
 
I have a friend who has an 01 Sundancer 310 with twin 5.7 mercruisers. V drive. He is having a charging problem.

The batteries are new this summer. Last weekend we were doing some work on the boat while docked and plugged into shore power. After several hours, the cabin lights started getting dim. I checked the shore power and the cord was plugged in. Then checked the breaker on the back of the boat and it was tripped. I reset it and then waited several hours and the engines would not start. We used a jump box and got them started and cruised for approximately an hour before putting her back in the slip. Turned off the engines and the batteries were okay except for the single one to the port engine. It was still low. A couple days later the same thing happened. While plugged into shore power the lights went dim and the batteries drained. I checked the converter and the LED light is on (red) and there is 14-15 votes coming out of three red wires from the bottom of the converter. I assume each wire goes to a battery. Where do I go next? The batteries are on a charger and I will check everything again this weekend. Is the converter bad? Are there other breakers somewhere that I need to check? Any help is appreciated. This is a new purchase for my friend and we are just learning about the boat.

Keith
 
if you see 14-15 volt on the charge is mean it is working so there is a problem between the controller and the batterie check current to batterie if you dont have 14-15 volt look for a bad connection damage wire or fuse
 
Auto Zone, Advance auto have battery testers that you can use to verify battery conditions. If the breaker kick out this could be an indicator that one of the battery that are connected to the charger could be defective. A bad battery will also drain the other batteries. It seem charger is OK based on your inputs. I would also check for lose connections. A few year back I had the same problem and it was the outside main breaker it was defective and thus kick out -by the time I found out it had kick out my lights were dim. If the breaker is worn it could be the problem since it would shut down the charger. The breaker should feel firm when applied. In my case it was the one found at the back platform storage area. The inside main should also be checked as well. Hope this help.
 
I just recently placed new engines. I recommend (if transmission is OK) leave the trans in place and just remove the engine. Since you had water intrusion I would pull the engine and just work it from the bottom up. Also evaluate a long block cost vs repair cost the difference is really not that much. Also the issue you want to pull the engine while in the water you might have to move the shaft, that will not be nesscesary if you leave the trans. Hope this helps
 
Vida said:
I just recently placed new engines. I recommend (if transmission is OK) leave the trans in place and just remove the engine. Since you had water intrusion I would pull the engine and just work it from the bottom up. Also evaluate a long block cost vs repair cost the difference is really not that much. Also the issue you want to pull the engine while in the water you might have to move the shaft, that will not be nesscesary if you leave the trans. Hope this helps
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Vida,thanks for the tip. I thought of that also but wasn't sure if you can reach all the bolts easily enough around the bell housing. Obviously,since you did it, it is possible. Once disconnected and as you are pulling the engine apart from the tranny, will the tranny stay in position without falling forward? I am assuming since it is still connected to the drive shaft and mounts ,it would probably stay put.Am I right?
 
Yes it will stay in place. Positives on leaving the tranny. * You can remove the engine with the boat in the water since you will not have to move the shaft. * The tranny and engine supports will assist and maintain your alignment when placing the engine back. * I would leave the engine support in place if you can by only removing the center nut on the two engine supports. Look into possible long blocks an option vs repairs. ATP Engines good source. [FONT=&quot]tony@atpengines.com tim@atpengines.com
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Vida said:
Yes it will stay in place. Positives on leaving the tranny. * You can remove the engine with the boat in the water since you will not have to move the shaft. * The tranny and engine supports will assist and maintain your alignment when placing the engine back. * I would leave the engine support in place if you can by only removing the center nut on the two engine supports. Look into possible long blocks an option vs repairs. ATP Engines good source. [FONT=&amp]tony@atpengines.com tim@atpengines.com
[/FONT]
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Vida,all sounds good.I will take my engine apart to check before I decide to go long-block or not.Thanks for the tips.
 
Had the starboard Nav light blow. Anyone know the size and where I can find them? Also, I ran my wipers for an hour or so on a bad day, now the starboard wiper won't work. How can I trouble shoot it?


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BigWalmac said:
Had the starboard Nav light blow. Anyone know the size and where I can find them? Also, I ran my wipers for an hour or so on a bad day, now the starboard wiper won't work. How can I trouble shoot it?


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Regarding wipers, had the same thing happen to me last season. Found the breaker blown. Reset and all was fine. If blown motor, difficult to replace due to location above headliner.
 
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