Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

I contacted them in the Spring and they asked me to send a pic of my boat when I inquired if they had something that would work. I got tied up on other projects and still need to send a pic to them. I am planning on this being my winter project. I will keep you posted once I follow up with them.
 
My refrigerator's decorative front beige panel has fallen off. It has a black panel underneath it which I think looks good. However that panel keeps sliding down. There doesnt appear to be a metal strip on the bottom to hold it in place like the sides or top have. I tried gorilla black tape on the bottom edge and it doesn't work. Any suggestions?
 
ArtWallach said:
My refrigerator's decorative front beige panel has fallen off. It has a black panel underneath it which I think looks good. However that panel keeps sliding down. There doesnt appear to be a metal strip on the bottom to hold it in place like the sides or top have. I tried gorilla black tape on the bottom edge and it doesn't work. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

That also happened with my prior 310....when mine slid down i used in my opinion the best glue around GOOP I put it on the lower edge pushed the panel back up and taped it, and let it dry a few hours, after that, removed the tape and never had another issue. with it.. good luck

Bill
 
Hey guys -

I've been looking for and thinking about a 2000 310 or 2000 340 for quite a while. Budget thoughts have brought me back to the 310.

I'm about to pull the trigger on the below Boat.
http://baltimoreboatingcenter.com/b...0-sundancer-baltimore-essex-maryland-5868981/
Of course I'll have it surveyed, but on the first walk through the engines sounded good, idled at 170 degrees, genes ran and the AC was cold.

The negatives were that (1) there was a soft spot in the fiberglass on the bow in front of the forward hatch, about 1 foot by one foot (they said they didn't know about it until I found it) (2) they couldn't say when the last time if ever the manifolds and risers were replaced.

Questions:
(1) What do you think of the price? What would you offer?
(2) how much do you think a fiberglass repair might run? (I'll as for a quote from the marina, but I want to double check with you guys)
(3) does 170 degrees for 350 Horizons with V Drives sound high?
(4) What else should I be thinking about?

Thanks!!!
 
170 is what my Vdrives idle at. They are 350 Horizons too. DO NOT believe the dash gauge however. Mine show running at 195 or so, but when I shoot them with an IR thermometer nothing is over 170. Your surveyor will take temp measurements at different RPMS. He will not use the dash gauge for that however. If he does, fire him on the spot.

Many Sea Rays of that era have moisture near the rode locker. It's not uncommon but your surveyor can help you scope how big. To replace? Probably a couple Gs. See if you can determine WHY it's soft. Where's the leak? That's just as important.

Horizons are fresh water cooled so risers and manifolds last a lot longer. If original, however, it's time. Your surveyor may help you determine but you won't really know without opening them up.



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BigWalmac said:
Hey guys -

I've been looking for and thinking about a 2000 310 or 2000 340 for quite a while. Budget thoughts have brought me back to the 310.

I'm about to pull the trigger on the below Boat.
http://baltimoreboatingcenter.com/b...0-sundancer-baltimore-essex-maryland-5868981/
Of course I'll have it surveyed, but on the first walk through the engines sounded good, idled at 170 degrees, genes ran and the AC was cold.

The negatives were that (1) there was a soft spot in the fiberglass on the bow in front of the forward hatch, about 1 foot by one foot (they said they didn't know about it until I found it) (2) they couldn't say when the last time if ever the manifolds and risers were replaced.

Questions:
(1) What do you think of the price? What would you offer?
(2) how much do you think a fiberglass repair might run? (I'll as for a quote from the marina, but I want to double check with you guys)
(3) does 170 degrees for 350 Horizons with V Drives sound high?
(4) What else should I be thinking about?

Thanks!!!
Click to expand...

A little pricey for 01, also the beam is 11.3.....not 11.17....nice boat though, good luck......Bill
 
I'm guess closer to 2 than 10. I've had some cracks fixed in my swim platform. Good ones. About $400 or so. So I suspect cutting out a section and replacing would be more. It's mostly labor. If the spot is just moist, just fix any wetness and let it go. "Watch it"
As they say. You don't have to replace it just because moisture was found. Now, if the integrity of the spot gets suspect, or soft, that's a different story.


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I have the same boat, sans generator. I also had a soft spot on the bow where this one is.
1) $47,900 is a pretty good price. I paid a bit less but mine has no generator and needed new canvas
2) The fiberglass repair cost m $3,000 and was done from the top. More if you go from underneath.
3) These engines run steady at 170 degrees assuming all is working.
4) Anything else, hmm, I just had a transmission heat exchanger go, see if all exchangers have ever been pressure tested, cutlass bearings had to be replaced as well.

This model is a great sea boat, and burns less gas then a 340.
 
Hello boater,

I have a 2001 Searay 310 Sundancer with twin Mercruiser 350 Mag Mpi (V-Drive) and I face some engine problems (thrust drop, rpm fluctuations, low fuel pressure in the line measured by my mechanic). He replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator, initially the problem resolved but after some time reappeared. He installed external auxiliary fuel tanks (connected on the fuel line coming out of the fuel tank) and both engines worked fine. So he concluded that probably the fuel probe in the tank is clogged. He tried to remove it but the access to the tank is very limited and he couldn't. He told me that the probe has a small filter in one side (the one in the tank) that may be blocked. His problem is that the probe seems to be metallic and unable to be removed. Also he wants to clean the tank but there is no access (no access door). Any idea? Does anybody know what the probe filter is made of and how it should be cleaned and/or replaced? (cleaning by blowing will not solve the issue since it can get blocked again if there is fuel debris)


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port or starboard?

my 310 has 2 tanks. one for each motor and the genset draws from port as well.

there is a panel on each side of the engine hatch. either one can be removed. this is how i access batteries on starboard and water heater and holding tank on port.
 
Hello everyone... I am about to buy a Sundancer 310 2002 model with 2 X 250 Mecruiser dtronic with Bravo 3s...Is this a good combination for the boat and is there anything particular I should give special attention to about the boat or the engines considering the age?Thank u in advance...
P.S. I live in Greece.
 
these boats are getting to the age that condition is more a factor of maintenance and care the unit has received .

as any sea ray i have been around, well thought out and constructed. lots of built in storage.

over the years the only problems i have had are as follows

the cabin hatch door runs on small 4 wheel trolley mounted on the door, then running in a tract. in the south west where we boat, there can be a lot of wind and it picks up dust. this get into tract and binds the plastic wheels and breaks them. this causes the wheel to break off. this causes the hatch to become hard to open and shut. not a big deal and wouldn't pass up for this alone. be aware if cabin door slides jerky or hard can be fixed. parts a bit high.
had to change out pressure relief on the hot water heater.
would have this stuff on any boat.

make sure the bellowed in the b-3's are in good shape. plan on servicing them and checking engine-drive alinement and grease u-joints and gimbal bearing(normal maintaince for any boat or i-o style drive.

look closely at the b-3 drive cases for any signs of corrosion. due to the large area of stainless steel props, if anodes haven't been changed regularly, there could be signs of drive case corrosion.

look over all the operating systems or have them checked. <any used boat you would consider, you would want to do this>

i really can't think of any glaring facts. this is a nice, snappy package. nice compromise between a smaller size for handling and creature comforts of larger boats.

personal preference plays a lot, you wouldn't unhappy with this model. nothing special or different than any engines and drives from any other boat or drive systems. the engine-drive have been well proven one the years.
 
Thanks a lot for answering and helping..i will take in mind what u said and specially about the B-3 s.. what do u mean the operating systems? .because my English isn't so fluent.
 
the operating systems would be the ancillary systems. they contribute to the operation on the boat but each is a separate part.
say your hand is a boat and each finger is separate, but they work together to make the hand function.

battery condition and charging, starter, cooling system, get-set, air condition, navigation and helm controls, fresh water system, 110 and 12 volt wiring, safety-bilge pumps, co detector,fire suppression ect.

i am sure
i have left out some. i hope this will give you an idea of where to start.

take each system and make sure all the parts of that system operate and are in good condition.

for instance the starting system. would need the key turned on, battery in good condition, drive in neutral, cables in good condition, fuel system operating.

as you can see these are separate systems, but overlap in operation, to make boat work

i hope i haven't confused you further.

best of luck garryowen
 
Interesting, 250 hp on this model. Does any one else have the 2000 31 with small engines like these? They seem to be small for the weight of this boat. It would be interesting to know fuel consumption and overall performance with this package. Or is this 2000 model really 29 ft. ?
 
Hello,

I have a 2001 310 SD with twin Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI (V-Drive).

While troubleshooting a RPM drop while on cruise speed, I found debris in the fuel boost pump screen.

My mech suggested to install an extra fuel-water separator filter with inspection bowl, between the fuel tank and the boost pump. My only doubt is that, according to the engine's service manual, no extra filter should be installed.

Has anybody faced he same problem and installed an extra filter? What type of filter? Results?


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Vida said:
Interesting, 250 hp on this model. Does any one else have the 2000 31 with small engines like these? They seem to be small for the weight of this boat. It would be interesting to know fuel consumption and overall performance with this package. Or is this 2000 model really 29 ft. ?
Click to expand...

250 hp diesels Probably have twice the torque Of my big blocks !
And probably 30% less fuel burn
 
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