Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

Thanks for your reply bostonboater,I did remove the starboard cabin light, but on this model there is no access. Looking like removal of porthole valance and ceiling headliner behind aft cabin door as far as I can tell. I'm not sure how this is disassembled.
 
ArtWallach said:
Long story short a few years a took off the original antenna and put a plate over the hole on the radar arch. We only watched DVD's. Skip to present day I have a brand new 21" HDTV w/DVD and I bought a new Glomex antenna. When I open the access port in the Radar arch i see a white coax that I assume is the Antenna cable. When I pull on it expecting the end of the cable going to the starboard side to be free, but the cable doesn't move. I have a tone generator. I put it on the cable end by the amplifier, but I can't hear it in the arch. I'm afraid to pull too hard on that cable, but I cant imagine what else it could be.
I plan on cutting a 4" access hole in the arch starboard of the light fixture to try to find the cable and help install the new antenna. Any thoughts on the cable I see in the arch?
Click to expand...

TV Antenna Installed. No access holes cut. I opened the port radar arch by removing the cushioned panel on the arch. It exposed the existing coax. I was able to run new coax from the new antenna on the arch and barrel connect it to the existing coax. I replaced the existing amplifier under the TV with the new one that came with the new antenna and voila! I have OTA HD TV. Woohoo!
 
On the right side of the instrument panel, lower right, a small green light comes on, i cant make out what it is because the
writing underneath it is faded.

What is that light and should i be concerned????
 
billnpat said:
On the right side of the instrument panel, lower right, a small green light comes on, i cant make out what it is because the
writing underneath it is faded.

What is that light and should i be concerned????
Click to expand...
on ours, that indicates the fire suppression in the engine compartment is active and ready in case of fire
 
It's for the automatic extinguishing system, it should be lighted on green when charged. It turns on when engine is running.
 
billnpat said:
On the right side of the instrument panel, lower right, a small green light comes on, i cant make out what it is because the
writing underneath it is faded.

What is that light and should i be concerned????
Click to expand...
Here is what it should read

Boat Dash.jpg
 
thank you......explains it well.
 
Hi all. Let me start by saying that i am an absolute newbie to boating and not mechanically inclined.. I had my boat in the water for approx 2 weeks and plugged in to shore power. I ran everything,lights,micro,central vac,etc. I didn't know what the ac converter switch was,so i never used it. Well,yesterday i went to start my engines and the starboard engine fired up,no issues,but the port side engine,well nothing. I used the emergency start switch to start it and it ran a little rough at first and then ran perfectly normal after that. Let it run for about 15mins and shut it down,tried to start it again and got the click click sound(dead battery). Finally figured out what the ac converter was for ,so i hit that switch to charge the batteries for about 5 hours. Came back later to try again and the engine would turn,but would not fire up,even with the emergency start switch. When i hit the start switch an alarm for low oil pressure comes on,but i am assuming that the low voltage or low amps could be causing that?? Any suggestions? Could this be caused by something else? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. P.S. Don't be afraid to dumb it down for me. lol
 
bshannon said:
I didn't know what the ac converter switch was,so i never used it.
Click to expand...
That switch is your battery charger. The only switches on the AC panel I leave on once I close up my boat and it's connected to shore power are the AC Converter (Battery Charger) and the Refrigerator. All DC switches are off.
 
Yep,i know that now!! lol. Thank you. Would the low battery voltage or the amps be the most likely cause for the no start?
 
Shut off the AC Convert and put a multimeter on the DC voltage scale larger than 14 volts. (mine has 10vdc, then 50vdc, so I use the 50vdc setting). Touch the probes of the meter to the battery keeping the colors the same (Red to Red, Black to Black) it should read ~12V. Repeat with the AC converter switch on ... should read ~ 13.5 VDC. If you do not see an increase when the charger is on, the charger could be bad. If the battery is extremely low or old it could be worn out and dead.
 
When you had the charger off for that length of time you may have inadvertently discharged the batteries to the point of no return.
 
New development... I tried starting the port side engine tonight and it would turnover but still wouldn't start until I gave it gas!!! It's an EFI motor so I assume having to give it gas to start is not normal or a good thing!! Any ideas???
 
bshannon said:
New development... I tried starting the port side engine tonight and it would turnover but still wouldn't start until I gave it gas!!! It's an EFI motor so I assume having to give it gas to start is not normal or a good thing!! Any ideas???
Click to expand...
I've owned my 310 since it was new and I've never touched the throttles when starting my boat.
 
IAC valve. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. Engine should run good except at idle. Sometimes you will notice engine RPM going up and down at idle.
 
Not noticing any fluctuations in rpm's at idle. I was thinking more along the lines of bad or clogged fuel filter. It's an EFI, and it's obviously not getting the right amount of gas on startup,hence the need to feed it more gas to start. Am I on the right track or am I way off?
 
Fuel injected engines do not have a choke. If you engine runs good at higher RPM's and not bogging down, I would rule out fuel filter issues. I still would take a look at you IAC. The IAC is only active at idle, and you could relate it to a choke on a carbureted engine. If your engine runs good except at idle I would suspect the IAC.
 
The only thing is it's not running rough at idle. The problem is at startup. It won't start without adding fuel. Once started, it's runs fine. Not sure what else to look at. I will look at the IAC, thank you.
 
Hey, quick question do you hear the fuel pumps coming on before the engine start? Hit the switch without starting the engines, the pumps should shut down after the system pressure is up. There is a release valve to remove air if it is trapped within the lines. You can scan or a pressure gage to see if you have the correct pressure to start the engines. Just some ideas.
 
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