Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

billnpat said:
First off.....Congrats Bob on your boat....:thumbsup: The only concern we had was that the port tach was running a little ahead of the starboard tach and that was fixed by a little adjustment on the port engine ,everything else was in range of others here on the forum as far as RPM, speed, etc and we were happy with that........ for our boat the 310 anyway...

Good luck...........

that's it for us.....and we are very happy with our summer breeze....
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Thank You!
Sounds like you have had a pretty trouble free experience.
I will search the forum for speeds and RPM's.
Happy New Year,
Bob
 
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ardeprint said:
Congrats Bob!!! I love mine! The only advice I would contribute is use the flush kit as aften as possible if you are in salt water. The most important advice is; use it and enjoy it!!!
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Thank You. I am taking it out of salt water to fresh water. Will probably need to replace mainfolds and risers this winter.
I do plan on using it and hopefully enjoying it also.
Bob
 
Quick question on the refrigerator. Mine only works on DC power. In other words, if I switch off the refrigerator on my DC panel it stops working even if the AC switch is turned ON (and on shore power). It has been like this since I bought the boat so I have been accustomed to "deal" with it, but it doesn't seem right.
 
try to get around to side and back of the frige. it might be as simple as someone forgot to plug it in or unplugged it for some reason.

it can be a challenge to find the outlet and cord though
 
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ardeprint said:
Quick question on the refrigerator. Mine only works on DC power. In other words, if I switch off the refrigerator on my DC panel it stops working even if the AC switch is turned ON (and on shore power). It has been like this since I bought the boat so I have been accustomed to "deal" with it, but it doesn't seem right.
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Mine is different. On the AC side it has a switch for Outlets/Refrigerator. On the DC side it has a Refrigerator switch. So when I leave the dock I turn on the DC Refrigerator switch. Works perfectly on either power source.
 
My boat is not here to check but, in all my other boats I always had a switch to change from AC to DC.
They were also located inside the box on the back panel. You might check this out.
 
ardeprint said:
Quick question on the refrigerator. Mine only works on DC power. In other words, if I switch off the refrigerator on my DC panel it stops working even if the AC switch is turned ON (and on shore power). It has been like this since I bought the boat so I have been accustomed to "deal" with it, but it doesn't seem right.
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First thing - pull the fridge, should be just 4 or so screws. Make sure it's actually plugged in. If it is, check the outlet with a meter to see if it's actually getting power. If it is, the issues lies within the fridge. If you have no power at the outlet, check the connections back to the switch. I've found that sometimes those can come loose.
 
ardeprint said:
Quick question on the refrigerator. Mine only works on DC power. In other words, if I switch off the refrigerator on my DC panel it stops working even if the AC switch is turned ON (and on shore power). It has been like this since I bought the boat so I have been accustomed to "deal" with it, but it doesn't seem right.
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Had the same problem back when and discovered plug was loose....good call by the guys....:thumbsup:
 
Does anyone with a '98 310 Sundancer have screens for the oval port and starboard port windows?

And while I'm on hatches.. All 3 of my bow window hatches don't function properly -- the twist lock functionality doesn't work... It also looks like the previous owner stripped every damn one of them. It looks like they aren't replaceable, that they are riveted. Any suggestions?
 
psubill78 said:
Does anyone with a '98 310 Sundancer have screens for the oval port and starboard port windows?

And while I'm on hatches.. All 3 of my bow window hatches don't function properly -- the twist lock functionality doesn't work... It also looks like the previous owner stripped every damn one of them. It looks like they aren't replaceable, that they are riveted. Any suggestions?
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This very common with almost all models. We have seen many owners complaining about this. Try a search for history and possible fixes. My hatches are either full open at 90 degrees or are closed. The twist lock will not hold any angle in between. Bad design, and seem they cannot be serviced. You need to replace the entire arm and they are expensive. Plus you need to drill out and replace a new revit. I just live with it.
 
What is under this hatch? PO installed a teak floor in the cabin. Looks great . I was browsing some other 98 models and saw this hatch, which is covered up by my teak. Storage? shower sump pump?
65d2326a.jpg
 
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Is that centrally located in the galley floor? If so, mine contains the shower sump and storage.
 
Uplate said:
What is under this hatch? PO installed a teak floor in the cabin. Looks great . I was browsing some other 98 models and saw this hatch, which is covered up by my teak. Storage? shower sump pump?
65d2326a.jpg
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On your '98 - that will be empty - no sumps... the sump is actually accessed from the hatch under the rear berth..

I'd love to see pictures of the teak ;)
 
psubill78 said:
On your '98 - that will be empty - no sumps... the sump is actually accessed from the hatch under the rear berth..

I'd love to see pictures of the teak ;)
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sump and storage on mine.....
 
I'd cut out that floor storage. It's huge and dry. We store cases of water and other things like that in there. Tons of room. Next time I visit my girl, I'll take some pics
 
ok this is from an old topic, but nonetheless one that was discussed quite a bit.....

So props...I had posted that I though I had 17X20 props...well when I pulled them off an cleaned them up here is what i found...
16 L 15 - L CUP N1

So I spoke to a well known prop guy on Long Island Bozzler & Sweezy, about changing out props. His concern is will my tranny push the 17 x 20 or a 4 bladed prop and still hit the WOT engine range...well, I posed the question back to Sea Ray. Apparently Sea Ray put a few different types of props on our boats...add to how the boat was equipped, Gen in the ass, size motors and think this adds to the issue.

So instead of putting on new props, asked the prop shop to be on the lookout for a set of 17 x 20 and see if I can get at a reasonable price, will then consider the experiment of trying them on for size. So as many of you have boats out of the water and you have Mag 350 MPI VD, Hurth with 1.55 ratio (this is printed on the seriel number plate that is mounted on top of the VD) curious as to what folks have and satisfaction with performance....

To refresh folks....clean bottom and moderate to light load I am pushing 18knots at around 3450 RPM....and feel my ass is sitting.

btw, moved the boat to the Anapolis MD area....see you on the water...
 
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