Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

Generator won't start. It turns over nicely but won't run. It's an Onan 4k with a ton of hours on it. Prior owner told me the original owner ran the gen alot while anchored. He claimed it has ran in the past year but smoked like a freight train. I honestly haven't put much effort into diagnosing or fixing it, just wanted to get some minor things fixed and the boat in the water to enjoy it for the summer. It's my first bigger cruiser (always had smaller open bow boats) with twins, a/c, and a generator.. Thought I'd make sure this is what I really wanted before throwing more money at it. So far I love the old ray.

From what I've read, it could be as simple as low oil or the temp sensor on the exhaust manifold.
Make sure you have enough gas in the tank thatbis feeding it. Dont ask how I know... LOL

Yes the oil level could also be an issue.

I hope your not planning on using the genny to run the ac while on the hook overnight.

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I am adding the Raymarine CAM220 IP to my 300we this weekend. Has anybody added one of these yet? Where might you have put it? I can't place it on the arch due to the hardtop. I don't use the searchlight, so I was thinking of putting it out on its mount.

any suggestions?
 
More progress on the Whaler...


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Last edited:
I cruise at 2800 and on my GPS I run 22-22.5 mph
3000 = 24
3200 = 26
3400 = 29
3600 = 31
3800 = 34
4000 = 36
4200 = 39

I have hit a best of 41.2 3 years ago but have not achieved it since.
Weekender or dancer?

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Hello guys!! Well I finally decided to take a long cruise from put in bay to lake st. Clair 80nm one way and the trip is coming up...would like to know what the best rpms are for my sundancer if you guys can give any tips at all. My usual runs at the longest are like 15nm ... I hear so many things like only use trim taps to get on plain....don't do that raise your out drives ... don't go on plain bow up for longer then an hour...please chime in with any advice

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Hello guys!! Well I finally decided to take a long cruise from put in bay to lake st. Clair 80nm one way and the trip is coming up...would like to know what the best rpms are for my sundancer if you guys can give any tips at all. My usual runs at the longest are like 15nm ... I hear so many things like only use trim taps to get on plain....don't do that raise your out drives ... don't go on plain bow up for longer then an hour...please chime in with any advice

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With an outdrive boat...

Drives fully down, tabs fully up.

Get her up to 3200 RPM.

Slowly bump the drives up, you will hear the engines change, dont trim up too high or you will cavitate. Use the tabs to level out the boat, slow adjustments, dont lay on the button. When you feel comfortable with the ride, adjust your RPMs back to 3200 and run!

I would guess youll be in the 10 to 12 gal an hour per motor and running around 28 to 30mph depending on crew, gear, fuel, water, etc...

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DA folks: is your forward bilge pump fully automatic, strictly manual, or both? (I'm targeting DA because the WE drawing appears to have a separate sump/switch for the shower, but feel free to chime in if your setup is more like mine!)

Ours is manual only via a switch in the head, but I haven't dug in to see if that's by design of the pump, design of the wiring, or missing/bad wiring. When we got the boat, the switch wiring had been cut so we restored the obvious connection and left it alone. I'd prefer it be fully automatic or hybrid rather than manual only--it just seems like a good idea in case of human error when showering/bathing. I don't like leaving the sump switch on the whole time the AC is on, either--especially since the volume of condensation/runoff from the AC varies so much. (I may be overthinking that one if this type of pump motor is built to withstand long run times regardless of volume of draw....?)

I haven't researched switch models to know what options exist, but would appreciate thoughts on pros/cons/other considerations.
 
i have a 250DA but peruse this thread for future purchases so take my input with that in mind. my forward bilge pump is manual only with a switch on the dash. i do not have a shower but do have a floor drain in the head but no switch in the head for the pump
 
DA folks: is your forward bilge pump fully automatic, strictly manual, or both? (I'm targeting DA because the WE drawing appears to have a separate sump/switch for the shower, but feel free to chime in if your setup is more like mine!)

Ours is manual only via a switch in the head, but I haven't dug in to see if that's by design of the pump, design of the wiring, or missing/bad wiring. When we got the boat, the switch wiring had been cut so we restored the obvious connection and left it alone. I'd prefer it be fully automatic or hybrid rather than manual only--it just seems like a good idea in case of human error when showering/bathing. I don't like leaving the sump switch on the whole time the AC is on, either--especially since the volume of condensation/runoff from the AC varies so much. (I may be overthinking that one if this type of pump motor is built to withstand long run times regardless of volume of draw....?)

I haven't researched switch models to know what options exist, but would appreciate thoughts on pros/cons/other considerations.
Our 89 DA is Manual/Automatic. It will come on if the AC condensate or shower water gets high enough, or I can manually turn it on at the helm or it can be turned on manually in the head while showering.
 
Our 89 DA is Manual/Automatic. It will come on if the AC condensate or shower water gets high enough, or I can manually turn it on at the helm or it can be turned on manually in the head while showering.
Ditto for my WE

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Our 89 DA is Manual/Automatic. It will come on if the AC condensate or shower water gets high enough, or I can manually turn it on at the helm or it can be turned on manually in the head while showering.

Ditto for my WE

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Sweet--glad to know I'm not in left field! Any chance either of you has pics so I can see the wiring at the bilge pump and float switch? I do have two bilge switches at the helm; we leave both in the auto position, so your situations make me think we've got a fault or break somewhere in the line for the forward one. FM prefers not to mess with electrical too much as far as installation/swapping so he's excused himself from the fixture work I've been doing, but he's a keen problem solver so tracing that wiring may be a good challenge for him!
 
Sweet--glad to know I'm not in left field! Any chance either of you has pics so I can see the wiring at the bilge pump and float switch? I do have two bilge switches at the helm; we leave both in the auto position, so your situations make me think we've got a fault or break somewhere in the line for the forward one. FM prefers not to mess with electrical too much as far as installation/swapping so he's excused himself from the fixture work I've been doing, but he's a keen problem solver so tracing that wiring may be a good challenge for him!
My dash switches control the front and rear bilge pumps. The one under the step for the shower has a switch in the head. Ill take a pic later today for you.

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My dash switches control the front and rear bilge pumps. The one under the step for the shower has a switch in the head. Ill take a pic later today for you.

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That's how mine was set up.
 
starting to replace all the electroluminescent lighting on the helm with LED's


 
I am adding the Raymarine CAM220 IP to my 300we this weekend. Has anybody added one of these yet? Where might you have put it? I can't place it on the arch due to the hardtop. I don't use the searchlight, so I was thinking of putting it out on its mount.

any suggestions?
How's it going?
 
Dammit! Forgot to take a pic... Got involved cleaning seagull crap off the canvas...

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I've been working the last 22 days straight. Many have been half days due to the heat, by the time I get done I'm not even in the mood to mess with the old girl.

I got to look at a school bus that has the same type camara placed over the drivers head. So I've decided to place mine on the underside of the arch. I should be able to see a good distance out in front of the boat, and with the IR it should help with evening boating.

Hows things going with with the old equipment?
 

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