Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

Hey Sundancer lovers, I'm going to jump into this thread too. I'm new around here, and a relatively new owner of an 86 sundancer 300. Overall she's in pretty good shape, but I've been patching up a few areas of neglect.

Can anyone help me source the Upper folding cabin door? My lower door is in good shape, but the lower half of my upper door is completely missing. I'd even take a few really good pictures with measurements of the original door. Would someone with a 300 mind going to take a few pictures of theirs and post them here?
 
I'll go down and post Saturday or sooner if no one else does.
If anyone has found a good replacement for those rollers in the "upper" door, he is referring to, I'd sure be glad to hear.
 
speakrdude said:
I'll go down and post Saturday or sooner if no one else does.
If anyone has found a good replacement for those rollers in the "upper" door, he is referring to, I'd sure be glad to hear.
Click to expand...

I think I've got a solution for the rollers that I'll show you when I get the whole thing built. I found a computer desk (small walmart style) that had a keyboard tray on "rollers" that I'm rigging in. Looking forward to the pictures, they'll help me nail this project. Thanks!
 
Lets start with these from my photo album. If you need more, I can take some specific pictures this weekend for you.

Jim



88Sundncerpics003_zps9c5b9916.jpg






 
Thats excellent man, thank you! I'll take pics of my setup and post them for you when I get it finished. I think to make my roller idea work, I'm going to have to remove the tracks, but I'll keep good notes and let you know.
 
Don't like to double post but didn't get much feed back in its own thread.

Noticed a soft spot in the deck of my 89 300 DA in the center section just below the windshield. I sounded it with a screwdriver handle and it seems like about a one square foot area is involved. There is no açcess to this area other than by removing the head liner which would require replacing the whole thing, something we don't really want to do now. I'm thinking about installing a 12 inch hatch in that area since it is in line with the other hatches. This would provide access to the core thru the hatch opening. I can remove the rest of the bad core, dry and insert new wood and epoxy thru the gap and finish off the opening with the hatch. I've worked on the bow hatch this way and it is doable. Thoughts?
 
Does anybody know of any bone yards that would have those small Taylor 12x12 hatches? They aren't available anymore but Taylor does make a 12x12 in two different styles. I'd love for the three to match exactly.
 
How much of the hatch do you need, frame and hatch or just the hatch?
 
The whole thing would be great. What I want to do is cut out the bad area of deck, which happens to be in line between the two existing hatches, and then finish the repiar working inside the newly created deck opening. I removed bad core around my forward hatch by digging it out between the deck and inner skin. I then installed new wood using West 610 epoxy. It was a bit of work, but nothing like pulling down the head liner and working overhead with epoxy, cloth and core. If I can match the existing hatches the job will look more 'factory'.
 
Just to be sure we are on the same page, we are talking of the two hatches just forward of the windshield. One over the galley and the other over the dinette?
 
Yes, those two hatches. The soft area is in the center section between the two rails and in line with the other hatches. The source of the leak was the windshield screws. I rebedded them and leak stopped but damage to core exists.
 
I'm going down to the boat around 1 today and I will see if the boat I'm thinking of has the two hatches,
 
I replaced the upper folding portion of the cabin door on my 300 Sundancer with starboard shortly after I got the boat. A previous owner had done it with marine plywwod and stained it, but by the time I got the boat the repair looked like crap.
The starboard looks really good, and has held up great for the last 7 or so years.
 
Nether of the two Sea Rays have the smaller hatches, both only have the forward one
 
Thanks to checking for me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using Tapatalk 2
 
My forward stanchion lost it's seal about 5 years ago, I sealed it but the damage was done, a soft area about 2' by 1'. It has not changed over the last 5 years but it is soft in that area. I was thinking on drilling some 1/4' holes and blowing out what is left of the core and fill with expanding foam, not sure if non expanding would be better. Any one ever done this, I won't destroy the headliner and cut out the ceiling to fix, it just does not make sense to do it that way.

Ken
 
I repaired a soft core around the forward hatch on a 300 Weekender. Removed the hatch, Used a long, 3/4"paddle bit. chewed and chewed until I had all the soft wood, shop-vac'd out. (from all four sides) Then, left to dry out in the hot sun for a few days. Brushed in some un-thickened epoxy, followed up with super-thick epoxy and 1/2" epoxy-treated plywood, cut to fit to hatch. Rock solid!
.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,247
Messages
1,429,246
Members
61,127
Latest member
Ants84245srv
Back
Top