Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

1989 Weekender 300. Does anyone know if there is a switch to run the shower sump? Mine is under the stairs and I see a float down there but I believe it is disconnected. Is there a manual switch somewhere to run this pump? Thx.
 
I have a switch in the head for the shower sump.


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H2ONUT said:
I have a switch in the head for the shower sump.


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OK, thx. Can you let me know what it's marked as? I saw two switches there the other day when on the boat - I don't think either one ran the sump but I want to know where to start my troubleshooting. Thx.
 
What are you guys using for screens on the 3 forward deck hatches? I had been using Velcro and screen material for the last several years, but they don't hold up well.
 
I am installing (4) new deck drain fittings and hoses on the cockpit of an 88-330WE. There are two thru-hulls, one strbd, one port towards the aft end of the boat.
My question is, how were they originally plumbed from the floor fittings? Would the two forward hoses go into a "t" fitting, then into the two rear fittings, then out?

Silly question, I realize, but someone's picture or input would help.
Thanks
Jim
 
1986 Sundance 300. Does anyone know if there is a switch to turn on my bilge pump that is inside my aft cabin?? I raise the float and does nothing.i want to make sure there isn't something to turn on before I replace this. This is a new boat to me so don't know if it has worked before. Thanks !!

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Float switches do go bad over time and need to be checked frequently. The connections can also get crummy and will cause it to not work. An inexpensive 12 volt test light is almost an essential to keep aboard these boats since the connections have been exposed to the elements for many years now. A fresh clean connection often solves a lot of problems.
I think your 86 is exactly the same as my early 87.
There are two toggle switches on the dash. One is marked "Forward Bilge Pump", the other is marked "Aft Bilge Pump".
Both toggle switches on the dash have "automatic" and manual" positions on them. When the switch is in the automatic position the green light next to it is lit, in the manual position (or whenever the bilge pump kicks on) the red light will be on.
The forward bilge pump is the one under your aft berth. The condensation from you AC drains in that space, and the 12 volt fresh water and 110 volt AC pumps are located in there.
If you put the dash switch in the "manual" position it should turn on. The pump should turn on when the float switch is lifted regardless of the position of the toggle switch up on the dash.
The aft bilge pump is the one all the way in the back of the bilge in a recess just forward of where the boats drain plug is. You can see it down there, but probably can't reach it to touch it or pull the float switch up to test it. You can either get something to work down there to manually lift the float switch on the aft bilge pump, or just pour enough fresh water down in there to see the float switch rise and see if it comes on.
There are two more bilge pumps on the boat.
The "Emergency Bilge Pump" which has a float switch is located between the two motors and its on higher ground than the aft one. Much easier to get to than the aft pump. There is no toggle switch for that one because it is hard wired to the battery switch and when the float switch on it kicks on an alarm will sound.
The last bilge pump is for the shower and is located under a small lift up hatch in the carpeted area outside the head and forward of the entrance to the aft berth. The water from the shower drains directly in to the recess that this pump sits in. It has a float switch, and there is also a toggle switch inside the head to control it manually. The toggle switch is located on the toilet side of the vanity inside the head.
 
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Need advice for a replacement windlass. I replaced the non working original rope only windlass that came on my boat from Sea Ray about 6 or 7 years ago with a Powerwinch model. That was a huge mistake as it has given me nothing but trouble since day 1.
It's time to stop playing around with it and replace it.
What are you guys using, and are you happy with it?
 
Thanks jvm225 for all the great info. Well turns out my bilge was cooked motor locked up. Went and bought a new one.now I'm getting no power there. Cables looked a little on the burnside..so I have to continue to play and see what my issue is. Any idea where the fuse would be for the aft bilge? Maybe it blew it and that's why I'm not getting juice? Thanks again for all your help

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mrboatfinder said:
1989 Weekender 300. Does anyone know if there is a switch to run the shower sump? Mine is under the stairs and I see a float down there but I believe it is disconnected. Is there a manual switch somewhere to run this pump? Thx.
Click to expand...

qe8yteqa.jpg


Sorry I didn't get this earier.


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JVM225 said:
Need advice for a replacement windlass. I replaced the non working original rope only windlass that came on my boat from Sea Ray about 6 or 7 years ago with a Powerwinch model. That was a huge mistake as it has given me nothing but trouble since day 1.
It's time to stop playing around with it and replace it.
What are you guys using, and are you happy with it?
Click to expand...

I installed the Lewmar V700, I am very happy with. I believe I did a write up with pictures and posted it.

Ken

I was right, just old not forgetful.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php?t=28418

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My Forward Bilge Pump has no light on it at the dash. It appears as if I have no power. Is there a fuse ???

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When you open the cabinet under the wheel, look on the backside of the head wall. There are 3 fuse busses, each has a black cover. Fuses are behind those black plastic covers
 
Are you getting good ground with the alligator clip of the test light? That can sometimes be a little tough and the light won't light without it. I usually keep an extra long length of wire handy with clips attached to both ends in case I have to use it as an extension to a good ground. I generally test the ground first before getting too deep in to things.
There is a breaker panel in the bilge mounted to the bulkhead above the batteries. On that panel there are breakers for each of the bilge pumps.
I personally have never seen one trip on my boat, but you may want to check them anyway.
Don't think I've ever blown a fuse for a bilge pump either. In fact, I don't know if there is a fuse for them at all under the dash since they have breakers in the bilge and are all wired directly to power. In other words, they work whether your batteries are turned off or on.
The fuses are located under the dash as dwana described. Wouldn't hurt to check them anyway. They probably aren't labeled. Mine aren't. But using the test light you should get power on both sides of each fuse with the batteries on. If you don't get power to both sides of any fuse, then the fuse is probably bad.
The fuse blocks go bad too over time. I've replaced mine. The clips that hold the fuses to the block are riveted in to the block and can get crudded up or loose. The fuse panels are inexpensive and relatively easy to change.
This may also be a good time to test the switch on the dash with the test light too. Make sure there is power to the switch itself, and then to the terminal for each position when the switch is placed in that position.
Honestly, I think I've only ever had one bilge pump go bad. The one for the shower. Probably because of all the soapy water or something gumming it up. But I have had several float switches bite the dust over the years. Now I keep one handy in my shed down at the dock in case I need it.
 
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thewetexpress said:
My Forward Bilge Pump has no light on it at the dash. It appears as if I have no power. Is there a fuse ???

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Not necessarily no power. Check it with your test light. Those indicator lights go bad over time too. There was a guy on ebay who sells a lot of Sea Ray parts. I know he had them because I bought a few from him a couple of years ago. I think I need a couple more myself now.
 
That switch in the head doesn't turn my pump on. I have to trace the wires, but it currently appears disconnected. Never got a key for the macerator, so I don't even know if that works or not. I can pump out in my slip so I've never even bothered to worry about it.
 
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