Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

Question.
On the 88/89 model 300 DA, is there a separate shower sump, somewhere? Or does it simply drain into the aft bilge pump area? AC condensation drain also?
Also, What's under the cabin floor from the galley forward? Is there a hatch some where? I feel silly for asking, but don't remember ever seeing.

Ok, one more thing, I am In need of the teak air conditioner in-take vent cover. An ideas?

Thanks all.
Jim
 
My shower sump is under the cabin steps. I don't think there is anything forward on mine. There is a drain pipe from the anchor locker that runs to the opening under the forward v-berth cushion that I assume runs back to the same sump location as the shower under the steps.
 
Ok, One more thing! Has anyone figured out a better, more smooth sliding hatch, entry system for the 300DA? I cannot stand the way the rollers bind up. Ugh...

Jim
 
DOH! Missed the "DA" part. Is there a small hatch under one of the aft cabin cushions maybe?
 
Nope, just the aft bilge pump, which also contains the AC pump, seacock, strainer, drinking water pump/filter.
 
This isn't much help either!

gugu8e6e.jpg



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I have a switch in the head to turn on the pump, however it will pump on its own because of the float switch. First few showers we kept the switch on, then I figured out it will work on its own. Can you turn the pump on from a switch?


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No idea if there is a pump. There are several switches in the head, only one I know works is for the Vacuflush.
So I guess that means, I don't know.
 
On my 87 DA the pump and float switch are located under a panel outside the head, closer to the aft berth. It's just forward of the recess area of the floor in the aft berth.
It isn't in any kind of sump container, it's just in a section of the bilge where the shower drains in to.
You can either let the float switch do it's thing and empty that section when you use the shower, or you can use the toggle switch in the head to turn the pump on if you want to.
Further aft, under one of the cushions for the aft berth, is another section of bilge where the AC and fresh water pumps are located. The condensation from the AC drains in to it and there is a pump and float switch to empty out the water. You can also turn that pump on up on the dash with a toggle switch labeled "Forward Bilge Pump".
I check my float and toggle switch's regularly to make sure they are working. In the 7 or 8 years I've had the boat I've had to replace all but the one on the emergency bilge pump.

There are two pumps with float switches in the engine compartment.
The furthest one aft, back by the transom, sits the lowest and can also be controlled with a toggle switch at the helm labeled "Aft Bilge Pump".
The last bilge pump on the boat sits higher and between the motors. If you lift that flat switch an alarm will sound. That one is the emergency float switch, and unlike the other 3 pumps, there is no toggle located anywhere to control it.
 
Very good Info!
So under the carpet there must be a hatch. All the other info you've given, matches up perfectly, with my setup. And yes, I've replaced all those float switches as well.
I will start digging!
Thanks everyone.

Any suggestions on those sliding hatch rollers? The old ones were broken and really rough.

Jim
 
Hi, Pretty new to this forum. Actually pretty new to CSR. Just bought my '79 300 Weekender in Oct. last year and only had it long enough to start building a list of things I need to fix or change and things I would like to do to it. She is seaworhty and runs good, just very anxious to get her back in the water. Most of the issues I am looking at are cosmetic and will be an ongoing project. Looking forward to some ideas from other owners.
Grampa John
 
Has anyone removed their sliding cabin door? Mine is hard to open and close. It looks like standard sliding door rollers will work???


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Take off the horizontal trim piece that is above the doors. It has about 4-5 short screws. They're shorter than you might expect, so be prepared that you don't drop them. Pull the door out from the top off the frame and it will pop out of the track. Make sure to have a soft place to rest the door flat on its back. Avoid resting in such a way that it is arched underneath. It is flexible and you might break it.

Mine was a bit squeaky so I took it off and did a good cleaning of the tracks. There was two decades of debris and grime in there. I also greased the wheels. Now it's silent and free. If I don't lock it open while on the hook or underway, it will slide back and forth with the waves on its own now.

If only it were possible to replace the "glass" to something a bit darker, I'd be very happy.
H2ONUT said:
Has anyone removed their sliding cabin door? Mine is hard to open and close. It looks like standard sliding door rollers will work???


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Click to expand...
 
Thanks. Are there rollers on the top or just the bottom? I agree it needs to be darker!


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Tritone said:
Take off the horizontal trim piece that is above the doors. It has about 4-5 short screws. They're shorter than you might expect, so be prepared that you don't drop them. Pull the door out from the top off the frame and it will pop out of the track. Make sure to have a soft place to rest the door flat on its back. Avoid resting in such a way that it is arched underneath. It is flexible and you might break it.

Mine was a bit squeaky so I took it off and did a good cleaning of the tracks. There was two decades of debris and grime in there. I also greased the wheels. Now it's silent and free. If I don't lock it open while on the hook or underway, it will slide back and forth with the waves on its own now.

If only it were possible to replace the "glass" to something a bit darker, I'd be very happy.
Click to expand...

Window Tint maybe?

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There are rollers on both the top and bottom.

I would have tried tint, but the other problem is some minor crazing in a spot or two. I wish I could swap it out for new material.
 
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