Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

The small end supports are 7/8 inch SS tubing. They are 23 inches between the bends. Allow 2 inches at each end where the tubing is flattend and drilled for the screws into the transom or platform. The middles support is 1 inch tubing 24 inches long between bends with the same ends flattenwd and drilled.

Let me know if you have additional question!
 
Sundancer said:
The small end supports are 7/8 inch SS tubing. They are 23 inches between the bends. Allow 2 inches at each end where the tubing is flattend and drilled for the screws into the transom or platform. The middles support is 1 inch tubing 24 inches long between bends with the same ends flattenwd and drilled.

Let me know if you have additional question!
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Thanks so much--a friend has a huge shop....maybe I can pay him in adult beverages!
 
Sundancer said:
Chris,

I'll jump into it next week probably! I have had it out, but have to attach/unattach rams at the launch ramp. Kind of stupid, but I did fix a leak and it's nice to have that in the rear view mirror!

I'm sure it's a common problem since it all hit at once and all quit at the same time. I'll get the meter on it and check it and keep you posted. I have a SELOC manual, but it wasn't a whole lot of help OR I'm just not able to piece together the twin version of their single trim diagrams. I'm guessing it's the red wire or the block ground. I figure I have all winter to get it now! LOL!! Should be good to go next year!

Thanks again for the pointers and no hurry on the manual! I'm retired now and have ALL kinds of time! WOOHOO!!!
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I think I have the shifter manual as a PDF if you need it. I found that the switch to raise the drives gets corroded and loses contact if the boat sites. I do have a lot of the manuals scanned.
 
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Iprof said:
I think I have the shifter manual as a PDF if you need it. I found that the switch to raise the drives gets corroded and loses contact if the boat sites. I do have a lot of the manuals scanned.
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I really appreciate that! I STILL haven't looked at it. This retirement thing has really messed me up! LOL! I should get back to it the week after Thanksgiving. I kind of think it has to be on the trailer up button. I was messing around in that compartment before the trip. The drives when down and after sitting in the lake for 6 or 7 days, nothing when I needed them to come up. I just think it HAS to be related! I'll pulled the trim / tilt next week and go from there. If I need the shifter manual, I'll let you know!! THANK YOU!!!
 
1987 300 Sundancer - Hello again. Have not been on the site in a while. I could use some help.

Water is slowly leaking into the midcabin and aftcabin sump pump areas. It is actually coming in from under the fiberglass in the bottom or the side of the sump pump areas. I removed the freswater tank and found that the drain hose from the step well just outside the cabin is broken. Water from the step well (as well as water in the lip of the deck hatch cover next to the aftcabin) drains out this hose to the thru hull fitting. I think it has been this way for a few years.

My guess is that the water runs under the fresh water tank and then down under the tank (into the area that is suposed to be sealed). From there it leakes thru the hull to the two sump pumps or to the sealed area under the floor in the aft cabin. I have not opened either the floor under the fresh water tank or the floor in the aft cabin. Over the next few days I will be using a moisture meter to try to find water saturation areas. I attached pictures of the two sump pump areas, the broken drain hose from the step well and the condition of the "sealed" area under the fresh water tank.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have had this boat 32 years and would love to get a few more years out of her.
 

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Those marelon fittings and hoses that drain overboard are hitting the end of their useful life. I think Scorpio just replaced all of his due to a similar issue. It's easy to get to your tank through the floor of the side compartment above. As you do it, please take a bunch of pictures so we can learn from your investigation. I've never been in that compartment and hope I don't need to!! The wood I'm seeing in your pictures is rotted but still salvageable at this point. It looks like that will be an easy fix if you decide to remove the wood. The stringers might be wet, but those can be handled in another fashion that is pretty easy actually!

Good luck and keep posting your progress!!
 
gck said:
1987 300 Sundancer - Hello again. Have not been on the site in a while. I could use some help.

Water is slowly leaking into the midcabin and aftcabin sump pump areas. It is actually coming in from under the fiberglass in the bottom or the side of the sump pump areas. I removed the freswater tank and found that the drain hose from the step well just outside the cabin is broken. Water from the step well (as well as water in the lip of the deck hatch cover next to the aftcabin) drains out this hose to the thru hull fitting. I think it has been this way for a few years.

My guess is that the water runs under the fresh water tank and then down under the tank (into the area that is suposed to be sealed). From there it leakes thru the hull to the two sump pumps or to the sealed area under the floor in the aft cabin. I have not opened either the floor under the fresh water tank or the floor in the aft cabin. Over the next few days I will be using a moisture meter to try to find water saturation areas. I attached pictures of the two sump pump areas, the broken drain hose from the step well and the condition of the "sealed" area under the fresh water tank.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have had this boat 32 years and would love to get a few more years out of her.
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Sure would like to help here but?...
 
The LVP stuff or just a regular common vinyl?
 
I haven't done that yet. Take pics, let us know how you prepped the floor and what you used. I saw someone that had used the LVP and it looked pretty good. I worry that it might be slippery. I'm sort of leaning towards replacing the carpet but have a feeling I will be overruled on that decision!
 
I guess it depends on how thick the LVP is. If it's not too bad, it might just bend but you would need to glue it down I'm guessing. Maybe you could make the planks go the same direction as the bends so you could use the edge of the plank as the pivot or start of the bend?
 
This guy made a 90 degree bend lengthwise--patience seems key! And I agree with Sundancer that glue/adhesive will be key, too, especially at the threshold of the head since there will be less surface area along the top/bent edge, and you'll have to navigate a corner, either with a joint all the way down, or maybe notch the top edge to allow an additional perpendicular bend. At the bump/step to the v-berth, I suggest horizontal planks--you'd have to bend only one piece if you want a smooth corner between the top and front, or measure/cut so that a joint lands there and you can caulk it in a similar color for a clean finish. Looking forward to pics of whatever you end up doing!
 
Here the floor almost ready
 

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Drifter22ft said:
Here the floor almost ready
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Lookin' good! And it appears to be a little less complicated than I was assuming--slightly different model than mine, so your carpet doesn't go up the wall at the base of the head. And since you're not pulling the carpet from the v-berth step wall, you don't have to get quite as creative there, either. I'm sure a heat gun will help mold it over that bump--maybe with a little scoring underneath to angle it exactly how you want it.
 
SCORPIO said:
Well I found out that it is a Wilcox Critendon unit. They are long out of business. Looks like nobrebuild for me, time to replace the entire unit and scoop.
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Update on this:
I was able to disassemble the seacock and all that was needed were 2 small O rings that I was able to match up from a Harbor Freight assortment I carry on the boat. A little silicone grease and it was good as new.
 
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