Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

Where is the spring loaded pin located? I don't think mine has that or its missing.
Mounted vertically through a piece of wood on the left wall near the back of the cubby hole. (In the photo above, just to the left of the cup holder is the hole where the pin drops in when it's stowed.
 

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How do you disengage it to shut the drawer? I think someone removed mine at some point.
 
Please excuse the dirt (it's cleaning day) and the rudimentary editing skills.
If it's just the two of us, we tend to use the pull-out console between the jump seats as our table for beverages/sundries. If there's a larger group, we leave the console stowed or pull it out only one notch (there's a spring-loaded pin to adjust), then place one of our coolers there like a peninsula. Gives more surface area for a platter of food, plates, or several beverages, but still leaves a bit of room to walk through.

With medium to tall people seated on the jumps and the transom bench, they pull in their feet but typically don't have to move their knees sideways or pull legs onto the seats to let someone pass. Using folding chairs against the helm is much more comfortable, but takes up considerably more space depth-wise, because the jump seats rest on the bump-out for the aft berth but folding chairs can't. There's always a trade off!
measured mine today. it was 28" between the jump seats and rear set lip and 81" across
 
How do you disengage it to shut the drawer? I think someone removed mine at some point.
Pull up, slide the drawer past the hole, release; the pin keeps sliding along the drawer edge 'til it aligns with the next hole. Do you want close up pics? I took that one at night and using zoom made them blurry, but I can take more in the morning.

measured mine today. it was 28" between the jump seats and rear set lip and 81" across
The WE design or the DA European might give you the most comfortable option if you do want to consider one of the larger classics.
 
yeah. have to see how things play out as to which i go with next. ideally i think i want a late 90's 300ish but really like the 80's classics too. another thing i'm looking for is a larger swim platform to mount a grill on
 
yeah. have to see how things play out as to which i go with next. ideally i think i want a late 90's 300ish but really like the 80's classics too. another thing i'm looking for is a larger swim platform to mount a grill on

The factory swim platform on my old 300 was definetly not deep enough to mount a grill on. Also, the starboard side has the swim ladder and the port has the transom door so it would be in the way on either side.
 
Pull up, slide the drawer past the hole, release; the pin keeps sliding along the drawer edge 'til it aligns with the next hole. Do you want close up pics? I took that one at night and using zoom made them blurry, but I can take more in the morning.


The WE design or the DA European might give you the most comfortable option if you do want to consider one of the larger classics.
Close ups would be great, the drawer is not that functional now. Thanks!
 
Looks like the block is there but no plunger. I always wondered what those holes were for. Someone put a clasp hook in the block and an eye in the lid to hold it closed. I always thought that was factory and half assed at that. Guess a PO got to do their worst on it. Wonder where I could get the parts to put this back to rights?
 
The factory swim platform on my old 300 was definetly not deep enough to mount a grill on. Also, the starboard side has the swim ladder and the port has the transom door so it would be in the way on either side.

yeah i thought about that. mine is the opposite. ladder on port and transom door starboard
 
I would like to add a larger platform and have a price quote but everyone I've talked to has I/O's and their platforms are mounted higher than mine is. I'm concerned it would dig in as I try to get up on plane.
 
I would like to add a larger platform and have a price quote but everyone I've talked to has I/O's and their platforms are mounted higher than mine is. I'm concerned it would dig in as I try to get up on plane.
Is your quote from SwimPlatforms.com? They were extremely helpful when I spoke to them on the phone; I'd be surprised if they haven't addressed this problem from other classic WE owners to have some real-life reports to share. Where's your current platform mounted? Think it might be possible the new one will be higher, regardless of I/O vs. inboards? If the folks you know with I/Os aren't experiencing a lot of digging, it might be ok.

Scorpio--I took pics but couldn't get them to load, so will try again when I'm at my personal computer tonight. In the meantime, I've been googling...."spring latch pin" and "pull pin" seem to yield the best results for functionality. I'm imagining removing the existing block, cutting into the back of it/drilling vertically to install something like this, then reinstalling against the cubby wall to hide the pin body. The nut/resistance piece of whatever I've got is inside the block--only the very ends are exposed, top and bottom.

https://www.pivotpins.com/products/bk-pull-pins.html
 
Both my water level indicator and waste tank indicator are inop. Does anyone know a common cause? The water level indicator on the main breaker panel doesn't light up at all. Same with the waste tank indicator mounted behind the head. Shared fuse? A switch I haven't discovered yet? Thanks in advance!
 
The water level light only works when the switch on the helm is cut on and the switch is pushed upwards at the panel.

The waste level only comes on when the vacuum system is cut on, rarely do I have enough waste in the tank to make it come on.

Now this is the way mine work, it may not be the same for you
 
The waste level only comes on when the vacuum system is cut on, rarely do I have enough waste in the tank to make it come on.
Can you give a little more detail on what "cut on" means for your system?

I have a push button on the side of the head sink that activates the macerator/pump, then a toggle switch behind the commode next to the indicator panel. The toggle switch doesn't seem to do anything, and the waste level indicators never display anything, even though we've had one full fledged "incident" and periodically the tank is half full or more, especially because I've been trying to fill it with sudsy/descaling stuff regularly. I assumed sensors or wiring are kaput, maybe even disconnected, but hadn't dug into how they're SUPPOSED to work. If there's a switch or fuse I've missed, that's a pretty darn simple fix that could make life a lot better!! (Our pump out team hangs a tag on the boat after they've serviced it; the last two pump outs, there's been no hang tag. When I spoke to the manager saying it's difficult for us to see the level, he said, "We're out of hang tags, but I'm sure they got to you." Ummm....that doesn't instill a lot of confidence!)
 

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T, the toggle switch cuts the vacuum system on for flushing. Once the switch is on the level lights show for mine.

The macerator is key activated in mine.
 
Thanks trflgrl, that does help. I think I can come up with something to put in there and get rid of the screen door clasp that's there now.

My macerator is key activated also. I have a manual head so no fancy vacuum pumps or control panels. I don't even have a waste tank level indicator. I just pull the port engine hatch occasionally and shine a flash light at the thank. When the level gets above about 3/4 I pull the pump out hose over and clean it out. One of the few perks I have where I dock is within range of the pump out hose so I can do it in my slip.

My fresh water tank lights don't seem to work but dwna1a are you saying the fresh water pump breaker has to be on in order for the indicator to work? I don't think I've ever tried doing that. This weekend I'll give it a go.
 
T, the toggle switch cuts the vacuum system on for flushing. Once the switch is on the level lights show for mine.

The macerator is key activated in mine.
Maybe that was deactivated/disconnected when the push button switch was installed. I've opened the access panel and viewed the wires before, but may need to put a mirror in there to get a better look.

Thanks trflgrl, that does help. I think I can come up with something to put in there and get rid of the screen door clasp that's there now.

My macerator is key activated also. I have a manual head so no fancy vacuum pumps or control panels. I don't even have a waste tank level indicator. I just pull the port engine hatch occasionally and shine a flash light at the thank. When the level gets above about 3/4 I pull the pump out hose over and clean it out. One of the few perks I have where I dock is within range of the pump out hose so I can do it in my slip.

My fresh water tank lights don't seem to work but dwna1a are you saying the fresh water pump breaker has to be on in order for the indicator to work? I don't think I've ever tried doing that. This weekend I'll give it a go.
That's true for mine, too.

As for the console drawer pin....I think I found it!! This one looks to be metal/plastic like mine: Window Spring Bolt

Alternately, www.houseofantiquehardware.com and other sites have all-metal ones; search "solid brass window sash spring bolt."
 
Im going to the marina this weekend and I will take the measurements of the wiper arms if you dont get a response by then. I plan on purchasing the extended zippers for my starboard canvas. It seems it has shrunk and I think this zipper will compensate properly.
 

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