Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

trflgrl said:
Soooo....I've asked and gotten answers for pretty much every other battery question there is and was about ready to pull the trigger. Combining suggestions from folks in this forum as well as battery manufacturers and other strong sources, as well as the folks at ProMariner who evaluated by model/serial number, I'm going with "same size/same chemistry" since it's a single charger; ProMariner did say I could go with AGM. I plan a starting battery for the port engine (it's on its own switch), then two dual purpose to feed the starboard/house (as currently wired, can start engine and run house with that switch on setting 1, 2, or both).

But after catching an article that addressed cranking amps required per horsepower, and separate mention of carbureted engines requiring fewer cranking amps than fuel injected, I had what feels like a "duh" moment.

Why am I using group 31 batteries? They fit in the existing battery trays, but....that certainly shouldn't be the only reason, right?

Anyway, I know the literal answer is that my boating family said to get group 31, and at the time I didn't know any differently. (They also said to use deep cycle in all three positions, which I've come to understand wasn't ideal, but I can't really complain after getting 2.5 seasons out of the port battery, while the other two continue to perform with no issues.)

So, to those with carbureted 260hp Mercs, what are you using? Size? CA? CCA?

An Interstate rep suggested their 34M (800 CCA/RC 125) for port starting and their 31M (800 CCA/RC 190) for starboard/house; both are dual purpose. I suppose I could be overthinking it, but I'd really like to find a sweet spot for performance and longevity, especially if I invest in a higher grade of battery this time around (current batteries are Autocraft Marine).

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
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I have a 88 300DA and have spent as long as 6 weeks anchored out only going to shore for pump-outs. I have 2 golf cart batteries and 1 starting battery. The starting battery is connected to the generator the GC are connected to the house and both engines, yes I start off the GC batteries. When at anchor I get about 18 hrs before I have to recharge the batteries. I have a Xantrex 1000 inverter charger with a LINk 1000 to monitor the system. My GC batteries are 6 years old and I find out next week if I need to replace them. The LInk 1000 is like a mini computer it keeps track of amps in amps out discharge rate and tells me when my batteries are at 50% and need recharging. My fridge is a Norcold but 12v only no 120. When I replaced it last year I wanted 12v only it serves my needs better and uses less power on 12v than the dual voltage. I also have a 42 liter freezer that is 12 volts and gives use lots of frozen meat, chicken and even a little icecream while at anchor. I start my generator off it's own battery but can turn the battery switch to start the boat if needed but I never have done that.

I can't stress how important battery management is when on the hook, no power no food no go no a happy wife.


I read through the last 46 pages of this thread over the last two days nice to be back. I have posted how to repair or extend a swim platform and installing a new windless, I also replaced all my reading lights with LED's they have been posted her also.
I will be on here a lot more often now great to see so many 300 owners on here.

Ken
 
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dwna1a said:
T, I replaced all three of mine with AGM's Optima blue tops. Two are for the engines and one is for the house. I did AGM's for two reasons. The bluetops are lighter and require little maintenance. I can leave them on and I don't worry about the charger cooking them. All three are now 4 years old. I can't remember if you have a genset, but having the lights changed to LED's lightens the load on the house.

Remember one of my past posts, I put my WE on a weight loss program. The Optima's weigh 20% less than than a Interstate battery with the same cranking amps or deep cycle. THAT said, they do cost more.

I hope that helps.
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I do have a genset but am considering it defunct right now. New person (former traveling Westerbeke tech) has agreed to look at it/maybe take one last stab at repair but is covered up right now, and I'm not holding my breath after all the time/parts already put into it. I'm mentally prepared for the "replace it" recommendation.

We've switched key cockpit and cabin bulbs to LED and have noticed a difference in the draw down already. Got a couple more fixtures to swap to be thorough (anyone know of a dimmable bulkhead/reading light for the sleeping areas that has a white finish rather than chrome/satin nickel/brass? Been searching a while), but we're doing pretty well.

Our typical weekend is late afternoon/early evening Fri through mid-day/early afternoon Sun, so with three properly charged batteries we should be ok. First Mate's even rationing his stereo usage....probably overkill, but we know a few people who have paid the price for running non-stop tunes.

Optimas....hmmmmm.... Are they 20% lighter than the Interstate marine AGMs? First Mate's the brawn of this operation for some things, so he'd appreciate the lighter weight just for installation/removal needs!

TitanTn said:
I don't have a generator. I've converted all of my lights to LED and I keep the batteries charged all the time, so I'm not too concerned with normal use. The port battery is connected directly to one battery (bypassing the battery switch), so if yours is like mine, and it sounds like it is, you should be able to start the port engine with the battery switch set to off, and I assume you could then start the starboard with the emergency toggle switch on the dash.
Click to expand...
Port's tied through one of the switches; it won't start with that one off completely. (We've used the emergency toggle once or twice, for sure!)

Iprof said:
I have a 88 300DA and have spent as long as 6 weeks anchored out only going to shore for pump-outs. I have 2 golf cart batteries and 1 starting battery. The starting battery is connected to the generator the GC are connected to the house and both engines, yes I start off the GC batteries. When at anchor I get about 18 hrs before I have to recharge the batteries. I have a Xantrex 1000 inverter charger with a LINk 1000 to monitor the system. My GC batteries are 6 years old and I find out next week if I need to replace them. The LInk 1000 is like a mini computer it keeps track of amps in amps out discharge rate and tells me when my batteries are at 50% and need recharging. My fridge is a Norcold but 12v only no 120. When I replaced it last year I wanted 12v only it serves my needs better and uses less power on 12v than the dual voltage. I also have a 42 liter freezer that is 12 volts and gives use lots of frozen meat, chicken and even a little icecream while at anchor. I start my generator off it's own battery but can turn the battery switch to start the boat if needed but I never have done that.

I can't stress how important battery management is when on the hook, no power no food no go no a happy wife.

I read through the last 46 pages of this thread over the last two days nice to be back. I have posted how to repair or extend a swim platform and installing a new windless, I also replaced all my reading lights with LED's they have been posted her also.
I will be on here a lot more often now great to see so many 300 owners on here.

Ken
Click to expand...
More hmmmmm.....interesting on doing a 12v only fridge...amongst other things....
 
Something else to remember about chargers and batteries. The recharge rate should not exceed 20% of your amperage. I have 220 amp hour so my recharge should not exceed 44 amp hours. A smart charger that has a shunt will do this regardless of the chargers out put capacity. If you read up on chargers and batteries you will find this information. A smart charger also drops the amp hours down as the battery charges. This process stops the evaporation of water from the batteries. I top my batteries up in the spring and am fine all summer and fall. If you need to add water it is because of your charger getting your batteries to hot by over charging.

Ken
 
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More hmmmmm.....interesting on doing a 12v only fridge...amongst other things....​

T, the 12v fridge puts a hurting on a house battery. Even with the genset I rarely use the 12v unless I'm on a good long run. As soon as I get anchored or tied in I try to remember to switch it back. A friend of mine taught me to freeze water bottles to keep the fridge cold.


​
 
dwna1a said:
More hmmmmm.....interesting on doing a 12v only fridge...amongst other things....​

T, the 12v fridge puts a hurting on a house battery. Even with the genset I rarely use the 12v unless I'm on a good long run. As soon as I get anchored or tied in I try to remember to switch it back. A friend of mine taught me to freeze water bottles to keep the fridge cold.


​
Click to expand...

The 12v only Norcold draws almost 1 amp less than the dual voltage. A day out with the family should not be a problem for your batteries. The fridge draws 2.7 amp hrs that's not a lot of power. I have the electric head it draws 48 amps when you press that button. I can keep everything nice and cold with the fridge set on 3.

Ken
 
my girlfriend made some progress yesterday on the new v berth.





finished out the night with some net flix on my new led smart tv with ambient lighting :)

 
Can anyone please tell me where to find some of the tambour roll covers that SeaRay used in our older boats?
 
I got some original material off ebay last year, exact match but pricey. Google tambour and you'll get a lot of hits. Will take some time to find a good match though.
 
Doe's any one have pics where your fresh water inlet is ? Trying to add a new pressure water regulator in the back stern and need ideas where to mount?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
My inlet is to the left of the helm down near the decking. It faces forward. I will see if I can find a pic
 
TitanTn said:
Looks great! Thanks for the pics because we're going to be doing this soon, and I like how yours turned out.
Click to expand...

remember you cant go any taller than 6", theres a ledge next to the v berth that it will hit. you can see in my pics its close to touching.
 
Hey Guys,
New member here! FINALLY finished reading all 248 pages of this thread over the weekend. I'm in the Charlotte, NC area... boating on Lake Norman for about 10 years.
Last month I made the jump from a 20' open bow into a 87 Weekender 300. Twins, genset, factory a/c, windless, in decent shape. I got a pretty good deal on the boat and (over sized) trailer - had a semi survey completed. No moisture or stringer issues in the hull. Drivetrain checked out great.
I've already got a listed of things to throw money and time into:

Currently replacing all lights with LEDS, replacing bilge pumps and floats, and a vacuflush accumulator. And installing a rear bench seat! I'm not a huge fan of the cooler seats currently installed.
Prior owner has completed some updates and rebuilds over the 10 years he owned it. Fresh water system, batteries and charger, and some of the interior has been replaced.

I've got the start of a soft spot in the upper dect at the the foremost hatch. All three hatches need rebedding, but only the front is soft. Typical anchor locker drain was stopped up and the access hatch lid is rotten.
I've got an original Benson rope only windlass that seems to be mostly working for now.

I'm hoping to get this season out of the boat, then pull it for winter and do some upgrades. I've found 4 blisters on the bottom (well sides) of the hull. None on the bottom. All can be seen in the pictures. Should I worry about these immediately or hold out until winter? Hoping to do the hatch work while its in the water this summer and not have too much down time.

Major winter issues will be all deck hardware being rebedded, major polish and wax (the entire boat is dull..approaching chalky), replacing the windlass, and getting the genset to run. It turns over currently, prior owner claims it has ran in the past year but its not a necessity for me currently.

The boat is currently sitting at my house on the trailer, I've been wet slip shopping but haven't bit the bullet yet. Yes I know the trailer is too big for the boat, but it was available and a good price. Its a 2000 Magic Tilt rated for 17,000lbs and a couple more feet than I have on it.

Any input, advice, criticism is appreciated - thanks in advance!



[URL=http://s483.photobucket.com/user/timw586/media/Weekender%20300/SR2_zpsoyrvem3w.jpg.html]








[/URL]
 
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Welcome to the hole in the water club. Nice looking boat wish I had a trailer like that.

Ken
 
I spent the day getting the boat ready to launch this Thursday. All the systems are in running order connected the batteries and they were still charged. Cleaned the sides off and waxed the sides. I noticed a water leak between the two port windows. I resealed the port marker light it was the only thing that could have leaked water like that now I have to take my carpet spot cleaner to the boat and clean the side wall. I am going to re-caulk the top side of the rub rail tomorrow and wax the underside of the hull. Going in 3 weeks early this year. I had planned on changing both gimble rings as the steering is sloppy but the marine needs the boat in now. They will pull it and do the job the end of June. Both motors have to come out and I will change all the thru hull fittings then also. Great time to paint the bilge area.

Some on had asked if the generator can come out the access door for the generator so I measured today. No way can it come out that hole with out taking it apart. The port engine needs to be removed to take it out in one assembly. Even taking it apart it still might not come out that little opening.


Ken
 
Welcome Tim. It sounds as if you found a nice old girl. You can find some of the parts you'll need on eBay, the seller is call searayguy. He has had some of the parts I've needed.

If have any questions all you'll need to do is ask. Many of us here have had the same issues from one time or another.

The genset may be something as simple as it just needs oil.
 
Pure84, what wood did you use did for the Vberth cushions? That's going to be my next project.
 
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