Norcold Fridge Replacement

bjac

bjac

Member
Jul 13, 2008
232
Kingston, Ontario, Canada
Boat Info
2004 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 350 Mag MPI 300hp w/Bravo III Drives
Hi All:

I know there are several articles on the replacement of the norcold fridge with different brands. Mine finally quite (it was a 2004 model DE0051). After several calls to different people and reading articles
herein I decided to go with a Vitrifrigo model C62is as recommended by the company rep. My question to all is this. As I am not an electrician is it as simple as disconnecting the black and red wires going to what looks like a capacitor on the Norcold, and unplugging the 110 line, then reconnecting the same lines as such to the Vitrifrigo?
I thought I would do a test so I put an ohm meter on the line I thought was 12V (red & black to the Norcold Capacitor) and it did not read 12V or anything but it tripped the 12V switch at the master control panel. I am therefore hesitant to connect to the new fridge without first asking the opinion of people that have replaced with Vitrifrigo fridges.

Thanks
Bill
 
As long as the power requirements are about the same for the replacement, then it should be a simple red to red and black to black replacement.
If the new fridge draws more power you may need a heavier gauge wire, but it is more likely that the new one actually draws less than the old so that shouldn't be a problem.
As far as tripping the "switch" (probably 12 volt breaker near helm) when you went to test it, not sure what that was all about.
Whatever caused that might be the problem, and not the fridge itself.
Make sure you are getting 12 volt power to the fridge.
A 12 volt simple test light available in most auto parts stores is all you need to see if the red wire is powered. With the 12 volt fridge breaker (switch) on, clip the alligator clip from the test light to metal, and touch the pointed tip to the 12 volt red wire going to the back of the fridge. The light in the handle of the test light should illuminate. If it doesn't, you need to trace it back and find out why. My next step would be at the 12 volt fridge breaker.
If it does illuminate, then you are good to go. Make the connections with some blade connectors, and cover them with heat shrink and you are set.
The 110 connection for the fridge is probably a regular plug and outlet.
 
Last edited:
Should be simple install. Mine went Sunday on vacation and ordered Norcold from Defender and it'll be here in Nantucket tomorrow. Was lucky to disposed of broken one at the last port.
 
Did you have to take off the cabin door to get the old one out or new one in?
 
bjac said:
Hi All:

................
I thought I would do a test so I put an ohm meter on the line I thought was 12V (red & black to the Norcold Capacitor) and it did not read 12V or anything but it tripped the 12V switch at the master control panel. I am therefore hesitant to connect to the new fridge without first asking the opinion of people that have replaced with Vitrifrigo fridges.

Thanks
Bill
Click to expand...
Use the "DC volt" function, not the "ohm" function. The "ohm" function reads resistance and will certainly blow a breaker if you try to measure voltage in the ohm position.
 
Thought I would update on the Notcold failure. Fridge was toast so After much research I decided to replace it with a Vitrifrigo model C62is. It fit prefectory into my opening. The Admiral loved it as it has an interior light unlike the Notcold. It has 3.0 cu ft of space as opposed to the Notcold 2.7. The freezer is twice as large as the Notcold and you can't even hear this baby run it is so quiet. We love this fridge and now I almost wish my deck fridge would calf so I can put another Vitrifrigo in. On my boat the old fridge came right out the doorway and the new one went right in without any problems.
Bill
 
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