Norcold DE0061 works on DC but not AC

[Forrestkk]

Hi All,

Apologies in advance but the search removed both AC and DC from my search, so I couldn't really search for this.

Have a Norcold DE0061 that had been rock solid, but realized that the AC circuit seems to have quit. I have my dash disassembled and had the batteries off and got home from a trip and the fridge was warm. So, no idea when the AC failed.

Powered up the DC busses and it started cooling.

I haven't opened all the access panels and checked the AC plug yet, but hoping someone may have had this issue before and has a quick fix, or am in for a new fridge?

 

[White Shadow]

Check all your GFCI receptacles. Quite often the fridges are wired downstream from a GFCI. In my 320 DA the galley fridge is wired after the GFCI in the head, and the cockpit fridge goes through a GFCI in the cupboard beside it.

 

[Jaybeaux]

Just spit-balling here.....perhaps a GFIC has tripped killing power to your AC plug?

 

[Forrestkk]

Check all your GFCI receptacles. Quite often the fridges are wired downstream from a GFCI. In my 320 DA the galley fridge is wired after the GFCI in the head, and the cockpit fridge goes through a GFCI in the cupboard beside it.

Great thought, I'll check them. TY!

 

[Forrestkk]

Ok, checked the GFIs and the fridge is not on them. It has its own circuit. Pulled the fridge and checked voltage at the power module, it is good.

So, the best I can tell the Norcold power module takes in both AC and DC and then sends power to the compressor.

The only win today, which is more annoying than anything, is the last installer didn't hook up the drain line, so it is just dripping on the floor. Boy, some people.

Dropped the manual (wiring diagram attached) and some pics.

Thinking a power module swap may do the trick? It is $600, about 1/3 cost of new unit.

Normally our boat is nice, but a complete disaster at the moment...lol.

 

[White Shadow]

On my smaller Norcold fridge the DC and AC module boards were separate. I had the opposite issue where the DC stopped working. I was able to take the DC power module to a local electronics repair shop and the guy was able to fix it for $130. Actually he said to me if he can fix it, it would be $130 and if he couldn't then no charge - so it was an easy decision and luckily he could fix it. You might want to try pulling your power module and taking it to a an electronics repair shop, maybe you'll get lucky and it'll be something easy for them to fix?

 

[LMBoat]

From another thread, I posted: "I got a "Norcold 169000500 Power Supply" from Amazon and it has been working great. It was a gamble as this part # does not apply for the DE0061, but it has been working for over a year & a half with no issues." I think it was $130.

 

[Forrestkk]

From another thread, I posted: "I got a "Norcold 169000500 Power Supply" from Amazon and it has been working great. It was a gamble as this part # does not apply for the DE0061, but it has been working for over a year & a half with no issues." I think it was $130.

@White Shadow @LMBoat thx!

Both great ideas. I am going to take apart the power supply today and poke around.

 

[Forrestkk]

@LMBoat does that power supply do strictly AC or does it take both AC and DC?

 

[LMBoat]

If I remember correctly, it only does AC => DC. i had the same problem you have. It would just run on DC.

 

[Jaybeaux]

@Forrestkk Do you have both AC and DC breakers for the refrigerator? If you do, then the power supply does not convert AC to DC. Its essentially a logic box.

Jaybeaux

 

[BlueYonder]

If you have a BD35 or BD50 compressor. You probably need this power supply.

101N0510 SECOP ELECTRONIC UNIT FOR BD35F AND BD50F DC​

Available on Amazon for $289.00. Very easy to install. Will use the existing wire connections.

Test for AC power using a multimeter to make sure AC power is getting to the unit. There should be a GFI somewhere in the loop.

 

[Forrestkk]

If you have a BD35 or BD50 compressor. You probably need this power supply.

101N0510 SECOP ELECTRONIC UNIT FOR BD35F AND BD50F DC​

Available on Amazon for $289.00. Very easy to install. Will use the existing wire connections.

Test for AC power using a multimeter to make sure AC power is getting to the unit. There should be a GFI somewhere in the loop.

@BlueYonder

Definitely have AC at the box, checked that with a multimeter yesterday and that is the box I have.

I'll check out the PN above, thx!

 

[Forrestkk]

@Forrestkk Do you have both AC and DC breakers for the refrigerator? If you do, then the power supply does not convert AC to DC. Its essentially a logic box.

Jaybeaux

@Jaybeaux I do have separate breakers, but based on popping open the box and looking at the board I think it is converting based on all of the transformers and capacitor/inductors (see attached image). Thoughts?

@LMBoat had found that PN you recommended and @BlueYonder has another option.

Also, based on previous recommendations I found some PCB repair places.

Thx for all the help guys, greatly appreciated!

 

[Forrestkk]

Thanks for all the help.

Got the new PS that @BlueYonder pointed me to and voila! Working in both AC and DC now!

$289, vs. $1800 and I get to hook up the drain line. Going to T into my forward A/C condensate line that empties into the shower sump box.

Also, found a place that claims to fix all PCBs here as a backup (which thankfully I don't need) - https://gesrepair.com/