No shore power light when dock has power

[Floatgoat246]

Good day all. Would anyone be able to assist me and others hopefully with this pickle I’m in. 58’ searay sedan bridge 2006 works well but suddenly at home dock which has power doesn’t make it to breaker panel. No shore power light coming on and no life of fridges/freezers, AC or anything at all other than what will run on batts.
Appreciate any advice. Thanks
(Still changed 50 amp breakers and plug on dock but nothing as it has power anyhow)

 

[ranger58sb]

There's a main 240A shorepower breaker inside the boat on the transom, toward the starboard side, just starboard of the Cablemaster tub.

If it's not that...

Confirm you have power to the pedestal?

If so, confirm you have power at the boat end of the cord?

If so, confirm you have power to the shorepower switch in the AC panel? (Could be switch gone bad.)

-Chris

 

[Skybolt]

There's a main 240A shorepower breaker inside the boat on the transom, toward the starboard side, just starboard of the Cablemaster tub.

If it's not that...

Confirm you have power to the pedestal?

If so, confirm you have power at the boat end of the cord?

If so, confirm you have power to the shorepower switch in the AC panel? (Could be switch gone bad.)

-Chris

Also make sure the stanchion is not GFCI and you are not popping the breaker when you plug in.

 

[Floatgoat246]

There's a main 240A shorepower breaker inside the boat on the transom, toward the starboard side, just starboard of the Cablemaster tub.

If it's not that...

Confirm you have power to the pedestal?

If so, confirm you have power at the boat end of the cord?

If so, confirm you have power to the shorepower switch in the AC panel? (Could be switch gone bad.)

-Chris

God bless you it seems as if a breaker somewhere gone so will let you know once I head down in morning. Thank you very much! Very hopeful as I believe they were doing electrical work and hit the shore power breaker with boat running on it. Update soon

 

[Floatgoat246]

Also make sure the stanchion is not GFCI and you are not popping the breaker when you plug in.

Unfortunately not GFCI plugs or 50A breaker but I do thank you for the support… I’m going to take off shore power head and see if crew pulled it hard and a wire came loose or something

 

[ranger58sb]

Unfortunately not GFCI plugs or 50A breaker but I do thank you for the support… I’m going to take off shore power head and see if crew pulled it hard and a wire came loose or something

So you have power to the pedestal?

If yes, do you have power to that internal breaker on the boat? If yes, problem inside boat (or maybe that breaker itself). If no, problem outside boat, maybe the shorepower cord... and you can check to see if you have power at the boat end of the cord.

-Chris

 

[ttmott]

You should have an isolation transformer also. If so don't worry about any Ground Fault circuit breakers; they won't be your problem unless there is a hard short in the shore power cable. The isolation transformer is a large white "box" located close to the cablemaster bucket.
A couple of things about power and 240 volt isolation transformers.
Your shore power cable has four conductors - L1 (black), L2 (red), Neutral (white), and Ground (green). L1 and L2 are 120 Volt each and opposing alternating current phase; If you take a voltage measurement across L1 and L2 you will get 240 Volts. If you take a voltage measurement between L1 or L2 and the white neutral you will get 120 volts.
The Neutral (white wire) is not used if you have a 240 volt isolation transformer; It should be cut off inside of that main circuit breaker next to the Cable Master bucket that @ranger58sb references.
L1 (black wire), L2 (red wire), and the green ground after that main circuit breaker terminate inside of the transformer on the primary windings. The green ground wire bonds to the transformers iron core and is isolated from all things on the boat. The bottom line here is there are no hardwire connections between the shore power and the boat's wiring.
The secondary windings (output) on the transformer have three wires - L1, L2, and Neutral. L1 and L2 like the shore power supply are each 120 volt out of phase. The neutral is a center tap on the secondary windings and gives that 120 volt when measured to either L1 or L2. That neutral is connected to the ground system on the boat; they are bonded together which is a code requirement.
OK, now Charles Industries made two types of isolation transformer options that Sea Ray used - A simple Isolation Transformer and an IsoBoost transformer. The IsoBoost product not only isolates the boat from shore power but also boost the shore power voltage when there are voltage sag issues; a valuable feature when slipped at the end of the dock and voltage has sagged to less than desired. There may be issues with the shore power supply or the transformer. if you have the IsoBoost product there may be issues with it's control circuits so get the manual out and verify the LED's on the unit are properly indicating. If they are indicating properly then the shore power through the isolation transformer are probably OK and the focus now changes to the generator transfer switches.
Here is another thing - you may not be able to use a shore power splitter (two 30 Amp to single 50 Amp) with a boat using an Isolation transformer. If the shore power 30 amp receptacles are the same Alternating current phase the transformer simply will not work - nothing will work.

 

[ranger58sb]

The isolation transformer is a large white "box" located close to the cablemaster bucket.

On the 58DB, it's on the port side of the bilge, aft of the thruster battery charger, aft and slightly to port from the thruster battery bank. (Cablemaster bucket is starboard side, aft, near where the internal 240VAC breaker is mounted.)

-Chris