No need to wetsand - Easy gelcoat restore

[baktasht]

I learned a lot of lessons with our last boat (Sea Ray Weekender 225) on detailing and restoration. We just got a Cobalt 232 and it had lots of gelcoat oxidation and a very thick layer of mineral/water stain build-up. Check out what using the right tools does for you. I made a short video to help others who are wondering how to best get their boats to shine. NO sanding is required. It's way easier than most people think: For this boat I used the "heavy" compound, then followed with the Light+Wax compound. I'll post photos of the finished boat next week when I get some time to finish it up.

Video here:

Here is links to the list of products I use:
* Dewalt soft start high speed polisher: https://amzn.to/2JpHTkC
* 3 pack of wool pads: https://amzn.to/2BL9fh1
* 3M Heavy cut compound: https://amzn.to/2on62RF
* 3M Medium cut + Wax: https://amzn.to/32SH23M
* 3M Light cut + wax: https://amzn.to/2Jowz8v
* 3M Wax: https://amzn.to/31Mwn9q
* Wool pad cleaning tool: https://amzn.to/34fADQv

Let me know if you have any questions
Enjoy!

 

[Todd320]

For the wax, did you hand apply? You wouldn’t use a wool pad again, correct?

 

[JVM225]

I learned a lot of lessons with our last boat (Sea Ray Weekender 225) on detailing and restoration. We just got a Cobalt 232 and it had lots of gelcoat oxidation and a very thick layer of mineral/water stain build-up. Check out what using the right tools does for you. I made a short video to help others who are wondering how to best get their boats to shine. NO sanding is required. It's way easier than most people think: For this boat I used the "heavy" compound, then followed with the Light+Wax compound. I'll post photos of the finished boat next week when I get some time to finish it up.

Video here:

Here is links to the list of products I use:
* Dewalt soft start high speed polisher: https://amzn.to/2JpHTkC
* 3 pack of wool pads: https://amzn.to/2BL9fh1
* 3M Heavy cut compound: https://amzn.to/2on62RF
* 3M Medium cut + Wax: https://amzn.to/32SH23M
* 3M Light cut + wax: https://amzn.to/2Jowz8v
* 3M Wax: https://amzn.to/31Mwn9q
* Wool pad cleaning tool: https://amzn.to/34fADQv

Let me know if you have any questions
Enjoy!

Nice work!
Thanks for posting.
As a detailing junkie I love these type threads. Especially when they include pictures or videos and detailed product lists.

 

[JVM225]

For the wax, did you hand apply? You wouldn’t use a wool pad again, correct?

Todd,
Detailing has been a hobby of mine for about 50 years.
I feel like I get better results applying wax by hand to a properly corrected and prepped surface.
IMHO: A rotary machine with quality wool pads will yield the best results on gelcoat. The Dewalt featured in the video is a great machine, as is the Makita 9227 that I use. Those are two workhorse brands that you’ll see often used in body shops. For occasional use by a boat owner, I’ve heard many people say they get good results with a cheapo Harbor Freight machine too if you don’t want to invest a lot of money. I’ve never used one, but I can see that logic.
I’ve got two great orbital machines (PC 7424 & Flex 3401) that do fantastic with foam pads on automotive surfaces, but gelcoat is different.
I usually have 2 or 3 wool compounding pads on hand when I start to do a boat and 2 or 3 less aggressive wool polishing pads to follow up with. It saves time if a pad should get fouled.
The OP did a great job. Not sure if he tried it first, but I would have tried to remove that brown staining along the waterline chemically before going at it with the machine to keep my pads cleaner longer. I also try to walk around and get any other dirt or stains off the surface by hand before I start. I’ve found that Mary Kate On/Off usually works well for the brown stains and a good all purpose cleaner will usually take other stuff off.
Any quality brand compound and polish will work to get a great shine like the OP did.
Tools and technique is more important than brands. Understanding the difference between compound and polish and that neither is a wax is important too.
Think of compound to gelcoat as what heavy grit sandpaper is to wood, polish to gelcoat is what finer sandpaper is to wood and wax is to gelcoat is what a protective coat is to a smooth sanded piece of wood.
Always start with the least aggressive combo of wool pad and product needed to accomplish what you need to.
Remember that like when you sand a piece of wood, when you compound and polish gelcoat you are taking something off.
If your gelcoat is in good shape you may only need to hit it with a very fine polish and a wool polishing pad.
Putting wax over a gelcoat surface that isn’t properly corrected/prepped will result in a shine about equal to the shine you’ll get from putting a coat of varnish over a rough piece of wood.
Also, try to avoid hitting vinyl graphics/striping with the machine and pad. While it will initially clean up the vinyl it will greatly diminish it’s life. There are products out there that are applied by hand that will achieve the same results on vinyl without deteriorating it prematurely. My current favorite is made by McKee’s 37.

 

[baktasht]

For the wax, did you hand apply? You wouldn’t use a wool pad again, correct?

Forgot to add those. I just added the extra fine pad and the microfiber cloths to the description, too. I apply the was on a slow speed (600-700 rpm) with an extra fine pad. Let the wax dry for a bit (5-10 minutes usually. Or longer if it's cold). Then wipe off with microfiber cloths until you have a nice shine.

 

[boatman37]

I use the same process but use Presta products

 

[JM390]

Little tip for everyone. Take a zip tie and loop it through the hole. Leave about 2 inch circle. Start up buffer with the wool pad towards you. take the zip tie and edge into it with the zip tie. It will clean the buffer pad right up. Move it up and down like if you were using a wood lathe until pad is clean.

Also when buffing hold buffer flat on the surface. Using the edge can burn the gel coat if you aren't careful. Great job!

 

[JVM225]

Little tip for everyone. Take a zip tie and loop it through the hole. Leave about 2 inch circle. Start up buffer with the wool pad towards you. take the zip tie and edge into it with the zip tie. It will clean the buffer pad right up. Move it up and down like if you were using a wood lathe until pad is clean.

Also when buffing hold buffer flat on the surface. Using the edge can burn the gel coat if you aren't careful. Great job!

Can do the same thing with the tip of a screwdriver.

 

[baktasht]

Little tip for everyone. Take a zip tie and loop it through the hole. Leave about 2 inch circle. Start up buffer with the wool pad towards you. take the zip tie and edge into it with the zip tie. It will clean the buffer pad right up. Move it up and down like if you were using a wood lathe until pad is clean.

Also when buffing hold buffer flat on the surface. Using the edge can burn the gel coat if you aren't careful. Great job!

I've found that it's all about getting the speed set correctly on the buffer (given the diameter of the pad and compound used. With the 3M compounds, the Dewalt highspeed buffer, and the wool pads I have linked. I like to keep it at about 1000 RPM for areas that I go over slower, or around 1200-1400 RPM for areas that I go over faster.

 

[baktasht]

Weather hasn't cooperated this week for me to finish up the gelcoat restore. I'll try and get out there next week hopefully to finish up and post some updates for you guys.

 

[Todd320]

Weather hasn't cooperated this week for me to finish up the gelcoat restore. I'll try and get out there next week hopefully to finish up and post some updates for you guys.

One other question, for tight hard to reach spots, do you use a smaller tool, or same tool with a smaller pad, or just the same tool and you angle it, like in the video?

 

[baktasht]

One other question, for tight hard to reach spots, do you use a smaller tool, or same tool with a smaller pad, or just the same tool and you angle it, like in the video?

I can get into most spots with the larger wool pads. But for tighter spots I step down to a 3" pad and attach it to a drill. I use these:
https://amzn.to/2NtDPku

For really tight spots, like between metal logos and such I use a Dremel with these heads:
https://amzn.to/2BWChub

 

[NorCal Boater]

I was formally a Sea Ray owner but now have a 1985 Cobalt CM23. This mode is pretty rare with a limited production run so I felt it was worthy of a restoration/refurb. During my research I learned, from Cobalt, that their earlier models had/have a thicker gelcoat than most other boats. Rarely do you need to wet sand a Cobalt to bring back the shine.

This is my 34 year old gelcoat after cut, polish and wax. Not sure why its formatted sideways....

 

[baktasht]

I was formally a Sea Ray owner but now have a 1985 Cobalt CM23. This mode is pretty rare with a limited production run so I felt it was worthy of a restoration/refurb. During my research I learned, from Cobalt, that their earlier models had/have a thicker gelcoat than most other boats. Rarely do you need to wet sand a Cobalt to bring back the shine.

This is my 34 year old gelcoat after cut, polish and wax. Not sure why its formatted sideways....

I've never seen a CM23 in person. From photos though, they look like a gorgeous boat.

 

[NorCal Boater]

I've never seen a CM23 in person. From photos though, they look like a gorgeous boat.

Thanks. There were only 84 CM23s made over 3 years. ('83, '84 & '85) Only 15 were made in '85. There are very few left. It turns out mine ('85) was the last one made.

I'm just finishing up a 5 year restore/refurb of mine and I will be listing it for sale next spring. Mine is pretty unique with way too much done to it to list. But everything inside is new or rebuilt. All upholstery, carpet, cabinets and bulkheads are new as are all gauges and controls. Engine (383 Stroker), drive and all components new or rebuilt. All teak trim stripped and refinished. I've enjoyed it but I'll be 70 next year and it's getting to be too much for me to keep it looking like I want it to look.
Shawn