No chain on anchor rode - good idea?

[deeman]

I will be getting a 1999 Sundancer 270 later this week. The PO does not have any chain on his anchor rode, just braided line. There is an electric windlass, I am pretty sure it is OEM and not installed afterwards. Do some windlass’ prevent you from using chain as rode? I know the chain also helps to set the anchor with the extra weight.

Any thoughts on why chain would/should not be used?

 

[rondds]

Some Good Windlasses are all rope rodes. That is the only one that I'm aware of that is designed ONLY for rope. They do make combo rope/chain windlasses as well. If you have one of these, you cannot add chain, unless you replace the windlass...
GOOD

I cheated and added about 20" of chain just to help keep the shank weighted down. The anchor does very well in the shallow waters that we boat in - just needs a good amount of scope.

 

[Pachanga Boy]

I think it just depends on what kind of bottom you'll be anchoring in. I don't have any chain on my anchor for my Pachanga, 6 years later and I've never had a problem. I've inspected the line every season and it looks the same as the day I attached it (well maybe a little dirtier anyways:grin that said I've never anchored in anything but a flat bottom of sand or mud.
I totally understand the argument of wanting the chain in a rock or uneven bottom to prevent and wearing of the road against rocks and such, but personally I don't get the whole "you need the weight of the chain" argument. I'm not sure 2lbs of chain on the end really changes things much with a couple of tons tugging on the other end. but I'm no expert ....maybe I'm just not thinking about it from the right approach

 

[rondds]

Greg
In my case, you're probably right - a couple of lbs of chain isn't doing much...but it makes me feel better. 25' of chain REALLY does make a difference.

 

[Southpaw II]

I've had both types; with and without chain, and chain makes a huge difference because it causes the anchor to bite horizontally when the rodes pulls to set. I'm sure depth and bottom conditions are a factor, but I'll always have at least 30' of chain.

Don

 

[Happy Hour IV]

Most anchors will set better the closer the shank is to bottom. The added weight of chain forces the shank down giving the flutes a chance to dig in. Once set the chain helps to keep the anchor set by limiting any lifting motion. The same can be accomplished by adding a lot more
scope. My boat runs better with 200' of chain in the bow. If the bow can take the weight and the windlass can take the chain, chain is the way to go. I just drop the hook and get a beer when others are trying to set their all rope anchors.

If you are

 

[Pachanga Boy]

Greg
In my case, you're probably right - a couple of lbs of chain isn't doing much...but it makes me feel better. 25' of chain REALLY does make a difference.

oh don't take it as a personal attack, I hope you didn't read it that way. I agree 25' or more would definatley make difference! but I do see alot of anchors setup like yours and again I do get wanting the chain to avoid possible chaffing, that makes complete sense. but all I ever hear from people is"whoa you need about 1' of chain for that thing to help set it better" and when I ask "why" I always get a funny look and the weight argument....i don't know maybe I should just shut up and buy a chain so I don't have to hear about it anymore:lol:

p.s. sorry to thread jack deeman

 

[rondds]

oh don't take it as a personal attack,

Hell no! Much too thick-skinned for that!

 

[Big Island Lifer]

I think almost any chain will help. The questions is will you windless accept it? If you know the model or part number you could probably look it up. If you do add chain make sure it is compatible with the windless. THey require a certain size and shape chain.

 

[JimG]

I am big proponent of chain... the more the better. I have ~20 feet of chain and 150 feet of line on my Antares windlass.

 

[Gofirstclass]

Here's why chain is important as part of your rode....

If you anchor in 20' of water and there's any current or wind it will carry your boat downstream or down wind from the anchor. If you have 150' of all rope rode you'll have a 6:1 scope. Any pull on the rode will lift the rode off the bottom and may cause your anchor to pull out because the shank is being lifted. This also causes a lot of jerking at the end of the rode as the wind pushes the boat around.

If, under those same circumstances you have even as little as 15' of chain in your rode (along with 135' of rope) you still have the 6:1 scope, but the weight of the chain will make it lay on the bottom. Now, the pull on the rode is horizontal along the bottom. If the wind pushes the boat back, the weight of the chain has to be lifted off the bottom before the rode goes taut. This tends to act as a shock absorber and removes some of the shock that reaches the boat.

 

[JVM225]

The original windlass on my boat could not use chain. I'm pretty sure it was the same one the boat came with when it was new.
When it died I got one that can use a chain/rope combo. It is much better.
If I had it to do over again I would not hesitate to get a windlass that gives you the option of using some chain.
If your windlass doesn't have that ability and is in otherwise good shape, it might not be worth changing just for the sake of changing. These things aren't cheap.
You could probably put some chain on the end between the rope and anchor and just have the windlass stop at the end of the rope, then mount something on the deck to wrap some chain around.

 

[fwebster]

One of the advantages of a rope only windlass is that they nearly all free-drop, whereas a chain windlass usually powers down. That might not matter to most people, but where we are, the anchorages are crowded in summer and it is very handy to be able to locate the spot for the anchor, drop it and back away to the beach so you can set a stern anchor quickly before the wind carries you into the boat next door. As to holding power, I don't find any difference with chain or no chain, provided you let out enough line to get a decent scope for your anchor. I use a 37lb Fortress and I believe it would hold a battleship if you can get out about an 8-10:1 scope.

 

[rondds]

My experience with my "all rope" setup is similar to Frank's. I've never really had any problems with holding. It's all about scope. This day was steady 10-15knots. All that chop was wind-driven (notice the bow of my boat buried a bit in the chop). WHOLE LOTTA scope. Held fast.

 

[chandalen]

I bought a 'digger anchor' and it specifies NO chain to be used. I have had amazing results in choppy water and high wind. The mfg. 'claims' it has 300% more holding power than other anchors. I just want it to hold my boat, and it does!

 

[Big Island Lifer]

Part of the problem with some achorages is that you don't have room for 200ft of scope. That's where a chain comes in handy. I fully agree with the 10:1 scope if you have room, but if there are lots of other boats or you are in a busy area there may not be a lot of room to pay out that much line. I prefer a bigger than necessary anchor and some chain to keep me where I need to be.

My experience with my "all rope" setup is similar to Frank's. I've never really had any problems with holding. It's all about scope. This day was steady 10-15knots. All that chop was wind-driven (notice the bow of my boat buried a bit in the chop). WHOLE LOTTA scope. Held fast.

 

[deeman]

Thanks all for the great info. I agree that chain is preferable but my main question was whether some windlass would prevent you from using chain. If the windlas on the boat can handle chain it will be added.

Thanks again!