Newly Installed Dual Battery System; Adding LED Lights. Where do I get my Power?

[garydunmire]

Okay, so I had a marine mechanic install a dual battery system in my 99 Sea Ray 210 Signature. He installed a manual switch like a Blue Sea or something of that nature. Anyhow, I will be installing LED lights throughout the deck of the boat and am curious as to which battery, if any, I connect these lights to. Or do I connect these somewhere else? I would like them to work no matter which battery I am using. However, I can also designate batter one for the lights and everything else and battery two as my starting battery, as long as I am able to switch the battery when the motor is running. I have read many articles and found many conflicting articles. Please help. I am installing a couple utility lights, LED deck lights, and an LED drain plug light.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Lazy Daze]

You likely have one of the switches (in the electronic module) at the dash that aren't being used. Use that circuit for your lights. One of the switches might already have the logo for cockpit lights on it.

You'll need to check the manual for your particular battery switch and find out if it's a make-before-break type of switch. If it is, good. If not, bad - switch it out. Regardless of the type of switch, NEVER switch past OFF when the engine is running.

 

[Wylie_Tunes]

Gary,

Unless you are wiring up a chit-load of LEDs, you can grab their battery+ and battery- from the helm BUSS or fuse block. If you helm has an unused ACC rocker, you can terminate to its switched output and it may already be powered. The lights will operate as long as the main battery switch is on an on position, depending on its type. The drain plug light is the one wild card though. The specs very on these so you would want to know its current in amps, to make sure your helm can support its load.

As far as having one battery designated for cranking and one for house, you need to know the type of switch that was installed and how it was wired. As to moving the switch while the engine is running, again, you need to know the switch brand and model.

 

[garydunmire]

Wylie,

I am installing quite a few LED lights. I convinced my wife to let me purchase the boat, but only if I can make it romantic for our anniversary. I am a man of my word and installing quite a few to go around the boat and into the bow. I purchased a new Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block with 12 circuits and a negative bus. I figure I can hook this up somewhere so I have power and can run all the lights I want. I just want to make sure that I have power to it no matter which battery I am running, but power is killed when the battery switch is off. This way I don’t have to switch batteries while running.

Gary,

Unless you are wiring up a chit-load of LEDs, you can grab their battery+ and battery- from the helm BUSS or fuse block. If you helm has an unused ACC rocker, you can terminate to its switched output and it may already be powered. The lights will operate as long as the main battery switch is on an on position, depending on its type. The drain plug light is the one wild card though. The specs very on these so you would want to know its current in amps, to make sure your helm can support its load.

As far as having one battery designated for cranking and one for house, you need to know the type of switch that was installed and how it was wired. As to moving the switch while the engine is running, again, you need to know the switch brand and model.

 

[garydunmire]

Dennis,

Thank you very much. I think it is best if I do use a current switch. I know that in the control panel I have a switch labeled for water systems, but also have one for cockpit lighting, anchor lighting, and running lights. I will likely use the switch for the water systems as there are none on my boat. However, are the cockpit lights the instrument gauge lights or does this mean something else? If it is for lights around the boat, then this would be the light I would want to use.

You likely have one of the switches (in the electronic module) at the dash that aren't being used. Use that circuit for your lights. One of the switches might already have the logo for cockpit lights on it.

You'll need to check the manual for your particular battery switch and find out if it's a make-before-break type of switch. If it is, good. If not, bad - switch it out. Regardless of the type of switch, NEVER switch past OFF when the engine is running.

 

[Lazy Daze]

As you know, you don't have the typical "rocker switch" type switches, nor a typical bus bar under the dash. Yes, I would use the "cockpit lights" circuit (the one with a picture of a light bulb on it). It is different than the gauge lights (those are turned on anytime you turn your NAV lights on). Since I don't think your boat came with cockpit lights, it would be unused. Take a look at the output side of your electronic fuse box (again, different than a typical one). Look for a blue wire - that would be the one that would go to cockpit lights (test to be sure). If the wire isn't already exiting the box, you should be able to add a wire from that electronic box... I just haven't done it in so long that I can't offer any specific advice without having a box in front of me. However, it's probably setup (check the actual fuse location in the box) for a 10 amp circuit. Likely, more than enough for your LED's, but add them up just the same. Using this circuit will keep everything working like it does from the factory (in conjunction with your battery switch).

Oops... forgot to add... If everything can hook up as I'm envisioning, you won't need that extra fuse block or negative bus bar.

 

[Wylie_Tunes]

Wylie,

I am installing quite a few LED lights. I convinced my wife to let me purchase the boat, but only if I can make it romantic for our anniversary. I am a man of my word and installing quite a few to go around the boat and into the bow. I purchased a new Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block with 12 circuits and a negative bus. I figure I can hook this up somewhere so I have power and can run all the lights I want. I just want to make sure that I have power to it no matter which battery I am running, but power is killed when the battery switch is off. This way I don’t have to switch batteries while running.

In this case, I would likely run a new B+ for the fuse box, back to the C post of the main battery switch.

 

[Bt Doctur]

If your planning to make love on the sun deck ,we`ll bring the sun tan lotion,can we watch.
If your planning it at night ,atleast wear a life jacket lest you suck in a lot of water and drown in orgasmic bliss.
Use the second battery in conjunction with the starting battery and a battery switch and rent a hotel room for safety`s sake.