Newbie with 2002 230 Signature

Well, we've taken delivery of the boat. Below there's a pic of it in the driveway at home with my lovely bride and Rusty, the truck that towed it home 135 miles with nary a problem.

But, my perusal to this point has discovered the following info as well as things that must be done. Your help is encouraged:


  • The SeaRay QC info says the boat left the factory with 22" props, but it is turning 26's now. So, I'm not at all surprised that it only hit 5000 R's.
  • The anchor and fenders are missing. Does anyone know what size it came with - both fenders and anchor?
  • The original radio has been replaced by a high-dollar Alpine system with two outboard Alpine amps, 6 Alpine speakers, and a big Kicker sub in a sealed box. The sound is awesome, although it needs some finessing to be linear as the bass was much too heavy and at least one of the Alpine speakers isn't working properly. And, the Clarion remote on the dash isn't connected to anything, although I have an Alpine hand-held remote on order and plan to connect it to the Clarion in-dash control.
  • Probably because of the Alpine system they've installed a dual-battery setup. However, both batteries are on the starboard side rather than on the port side where the Sea Ray literature, and logic, seems to say they would have been. Anyone with this boat and dual batteries able to confirm that?
  • There are a few really sharp edges that must be rounded. One is the striker for the ski locker. I can assure you that when you are in there cleaning out the locker with towels that striker is sharp. I was literally afraid to look at my arm, although when a gush of blood didn't come I finally did and found it just badly scraped and not laid open.
  • The wooden steering wheel is cracked. Does anyone have any experience refinishing these wheels?

Thanks in advance,
Gary

80-image_46a3b4d4bd2f505f55786343064818c230c42010.jpg
 
If you hit 5,000 RPM's, you're smack dab in the middle of it's spec'd WOT RPM. Those 26's sound like the correct props - don't change them.

Boats don't come with fenders and bowriders don't come with an anchor (from the factory, anyways). 6" or 8" fenders are plenty suitable for a runabout. Anchor size/kind will depend on the type of ground you're hooking into, conditions and expectations. How much anchoring do you plan on doing? For most bowriders of your size, a #10 or #13 economy, fluke anchor will work. If you're going with a name-brand, such as Danforth, a 9# will do 'ya. 3/8" rope is plenty strong, but 1/2" will feel better in your hands. Use at least 6' of chain for better results.

Regardless of the sound system, dual batteries was an original option. Is there a problem with where they are? It doesn't really matter where they are - they can be put on either side.

Typically, one manufacturer's remote will not communicate with another's head unit - hence the reason the remote on the dash doesn't work.

The UV damages the protective coating on the steering wheel - it's not uncommon to see the coating yellow and crack over time. I have never tried to refinish one - sorry, can't help with that.
 
Dennis - Thanks for the response. While 5000 is in the middle of the range, it was achieved on a day when the air temp was in the 50's and with one person in the boat, 1/2 tank of gas, no skis, no fresh water, no ice chest, nada. So, when the air temp hits 100+ and all the people and equipment get loaded I'm betting it won't even hit 4800. And, when I take it to Lake Powell the elevation change (3700' vs 1000') will exacerbate the problem. So, I'm pretty sure I'll have to change props, but won't do that until I actually test the boat myself. I'm just getting ready and exploring the options.

As for the anchor, I thought they came with an anchor, so I was mistaken. But, I guess my question is what will fit in the designated storage spot? I was hoping someone with the same boat would know. Anyway, good to know about the size of the rope. Thanks.

On the batteries, it is possible this setup came from the factory as an option. Whomever optioned this boat did a good job and included most of them, but given the layout of the wiring and the placement I'm not sure dual batteries were on the list. I'll post a pic later of the wiring, but it isn't up to SeaRay's standards in my way of thinking. And there are different sizes of wire used where I would have expected them to be the same. Plus, there's a joint between two cables with electrical tape that doesn't look … professional or factory. Further, the owner's manual with the boat shows the dual battery setup on the port side and these are on the starboard side - although the owner's manual was printed 2 years before the boat was built and doesn't even show the seatin it has an option. So, I'm thinking the 2nd battery was added as a result of the stereo, but wanted to know what y'all think.

And, I fully agree that one brand remote won't work on another brand stereo. But, I'm hoping to change that. The dash-mounted Clarion remote has a connector that provides the output of the switches on its face. So I plan to tap into the Alpine hand-held remote and have the Carion's switches simulate button-pushes on the Alpine. Then I'll put the Alpine remote in the compartment with the Alpine head unit and be able to control it from the dash. In fact, if that approach is successful it might be useful for others on here who have changed the head unit but don't have a way to control it.
 
The "range" for that engine is 4,800-5,200. And the way you tested it is pretty much identical to "book tests". You're right that as you start putting gear and people into it (along with atmospheric conditions), the max RPM is going to drop. "Typically", I like to prop boat for the way they're going to be used MOST of the time. But changing two B3 props is a costly adventure. For what it's worth, the prop charts that I pulled up vary from stating between 24" and 26" props.

You may very well be correct on the dual battery thing. But don't base your thoughts strictly on what the manual says - often times things will change over the course of the model run and not be reflected in the manual. I will offer, though, that it would be "strange" for someone to change the location of the batteries (although not unheard of, of course). Unless there was an access issue, it's just much easier to simply add another battery to the existing location, than it is to run TWO sets of new cables.

That radio/remote stuff you mentioned... way above my pay grade! BUT, you are 100% correct that other people will find that useful!!!

There's many different brands of anchors, so make sure you get someone's exact brand of anchor, as well. However, good brands (like Danforth) will give you the dimensions on their website.
 
It is odd that the charts show 24" and 26" props and not the 22" that SeaRay's check list shows came on the boat. And, by the way, it is geared 2.2:1. Anyway, I do expect to have to re-prop. And, while I don't like the price of the props, that's not going to prevent me from getting it propped correctly. I'm finally at a point in my life where I am going to do it correctly, and in the case of props my definition of "correctly" is that it'll hit at least the bottom end of the range when fully loaded and at the extreme of temp and altitude where it'll be used. Given that, I'll say I expect it to hit at least 4800 at Lake Powell with a full load of fuel, 9 people on board (6 adults and 3 kids from 5 down), and enough gear so we can be gone all day. And, to do that it'll probably have to hit 5200 when lightly loaded here in Okiehoma. And, even if it'll wind a bit past the 5200 when lightly loaded, I'm also smart enough not to do that - at least for very long.

So, towards that end I'm researching props. And I'm reading good things about the Signature Four by 4's. Any knowledge on those? I'm not looking for max MPH, but I want it to come out of the hole NOW since I'll be pulling skiers with a loaded boat. And, I'll be pulling kiddos on tubes etc at low speed, so want max low-speed planing. Thoughts?

As for the batteries, here are links to some pics to explain what I'm talking about. (I'm confused about the picture attachment policies here. I'm apparently 26kb below the limit, whatever it is, and the "click here" to find out what the issue is doesn't work. Help! :smt100)

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s678/garylewis2/DSCN8827_zpscqlr3f1a.jpg In this one you can see both batteries and a weird connection (green arrow) between the output cable from the dual-battery switch to the input cable the factory battery switch in the gunnel. Note that the factory cable is .625 OD, while the output from the dual-battery switch is .455" OD. And, the positive cable from the rear battery (the one the green arrow is on top of) is even smaller - .375" OD. All of this tells me that this wasn't installed by the factory.

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s678/garylewis2/DSCN8831_zpszonetnr0.jpg In this pic you can see the routing of the positive cables to the dual-battery switch. Not what I'd call "up to snuff".

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s678/garylewis2/DSCN8832_zps8ra3wdqo.jpg Here you see the dual-battery switch, conveniently located below the rear seat. And the red arrow points to pair of wires (one is black and the other is tan, I think) which have been torn free from something, although I know not what. Any ideas? Also, I've realized that there's absolutely no way to jump-start this boat since there are no lugs accessible when the rear seat is down - and it is electrically operated. :wow:

The bottom line is that I have an urge to re-do the battery wiring. I want large cables to ensure I'm not losing any voltage when cranking the engine. And, I want rid of the joint in the middle of the run. Plus, I think it would be prudent to install some lugs that are accessible when the rear cover is down so at least you could rapidly charge the batteries, if not jump-start the engine. Probably under the rear seat next to the switch would be a good place for them, and they'd need screw-on covers.

So, what ideas do y'all have?
 
Sounds like you're on the right track.

Definitely try and get the RPM's up to the upper limit, if not a bit over (with a light load). Like you said, you can control that via throttle and trim. BUT, you're not going to have any problems pulling tubers, etc - even if you keep the 26" (which I would recommend for now - until you get some time on the boat, anyways), you still have trim tabs. Are you familiar with the use of tabs?

2.2 gear ratio is the same thing I was seeing. Why the build sheet shows 22? I dunno. Could've game originally with 22's and found out that they were way too small - Probably over-revved by at least 500 - 600 RPMs (although the rev limiter would have kicked in). That is readable by a Merc computer, though -- if you were so inclined to find out. A Merc shop can hook up to the ECM and see things like fault codes and how long it was run at various RPM's.

I don't have any personal experience with the 4-blade B3 props. From what I've read, though, I wouldn't change a perfectly good, functioning 3-blade setup as the difference is very minor. BUT, if you end up going to a different pitch anyways, sure - go for it.

Ummm... yeah... that battery setup is definitely not stock. Wrong sized box (besides, Sea Ray would of used a tray), funky electrical tape connection (a bad thing), mismatched battery cables (and the small one was obviously shipped in a small package, folded on itself many times -- given the bends/creases in it). Also the battery switch is not stock. However, on that note, Cole-Hersee makes very good products - but double check that it's a "make before break" switch. But you know what... I've seen much worse!

You should be able to plug a battery pack into the 12V outlet and raise the hatch that way. Also, I "think" that the electric lift used in that boat... allows for manual access by manually lifting the sunpad about 6", and then reaching in to pull a quick-disconnect pin. But I could be wrong - some of these "finer" points tend to blend together on me from one model to another. But, sure, remote terminals would be a fine idea - I've added those a few times over the years.

No clue on that black and tan wire. Probably something the previous owner took with him. In stock form, there would have been no wires there like they are (not even hooked to something). Trace it back and see where it goes.
 
No, I'm not familiar with the use of trim tabs. I know how they work and what they do, but I've never been in a boat with them much less had a boat with them. I know these reset when the key is turned off, but don't know if they then go back to where they were when the key is turned on. Nor how far down I'll want them for coming on plane.

On reading the Merc computer, I've seen mention of a reader that one can get to do it yourself. Is this something like the OBD2 scanner for a car? I have one of those that Bluetooths to my iPhone. Can that be done for the Merc?

I'd missed that the small cable was folded in a small package. Well-spotted! Anyway, I do plan to re-do the battery cables. I'm restoring another '81 F150 and had already planned to make my own cables for it, so might as well do this in conjunction with that. I may be buying a swage tool like this one to install the connectors and then solder them as well. Plus I use heat-shrink tubing with an adhesive/sealant in it. I don't like doing things half-way. :grin:

As for the small wires, the owner's manual has a schematic, but I didn't find these wires in it. However, they run up toward the dash so I should be able to find them there.

Another question: You previously said that with a lift I won't need to get to the cleats, so the cover wouldn't have to be slotted for them. But, don't you need some lines on the boat in case the lift sinks? Also, where can I find a cover with the draw-strap you mentioned? I haven't found them yet.


Thanks!
 
Trim tabs are WONDERFUL! Once you get used to them, you'll never want a boat without them. I wasn't aware that they were self-retracting on your boat (Sea Ray doesn't add that feature, or at least not on any of the many Sea Ray's I've owner or ran). But, that could of been added, too. Regardless, they will not go back down to the previous "deployment". It'll take some getting used to, but eventually you'll be adjusting them without even thinking about it. The best advice I can give is simply think about what you want the bow to do (port tab button controls port-side bow... even though it's actually the starboard-side tab moving when you push the port button). Push the top of the button to push the bow down, push the bottom of the button (or "pull" the top of the button towards you) to raise the bow. If you're familiar with an airplane "stick, same idea - push to go down, pull to go up. There's lot's more written about tab operation, though - plenty of info through searches here on CSR and on Bennett's website (the manufacturer of your tabs).

There are no "cheap" code readers like there are for cars. There are some available - I just have never needed one (for obvious reasons) so I can't really comment on it.

I redid every battery cable in my Suburban about 6 or 7 years ago (diesel, so two batteries). I used soldered lugs - no crimping - love it. I use adhesive-lined shrink, too... good choice!

I don't use a lift, myself, but for the life of me, I can't ever remember seeing anyone tieing-off from the cleats (but I can't say I've ever seen a boat on an "inflatable" lift, either). Now, maybe they're tieing off from the stern eyes and bow eye? Just have never seen it. For the strap, I think you're going to need to have it custom made that way. I don't know of any "pre-made" covers like that for your year. But, it's simply a tie-down style ratchet with a 1" webbing. Nothing special - buy the ratchet and then buy the 1" webbing by the foot and give it to the upholsterer. Heck, you might even be able to find SS ratchets - although that probably not necessary - but can't hurt.
 
re - Another question: You previously said that with a lift I won't need to get to the cleats, so the cover wouldn't have to be slotted for them. But, don't you need some lines on the boat in case the lift sinks? Also, where can I find a cover with the draw-strap you mentioned? I haven't found them yet.


Gary, I got my cover from Overton's, one of their custom fit models. Your boat is listed https://secure.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?r=view&i=74659 if the link copied correctly.
It has a draw string that pulls it tight just below the gunwale. As I said before, in don't use the straps on the lift, just sand bags to hold the cover tight.

As for dock lines… yes, you should use a couple. Lifts do leak and fall on rare occasions all it takes is a hose clamp to break and a slow leak will drop your lift over a week or two, or your kids don't get the valve fully closed.

I have bumpers on my dock, so I don't have use fenders in my own slip. I just have a pair of safety lines from the cleats to the dock so the boat doesn't drift out as soon as the lift is lowered.
 
randmhall said:
As for dock lines… yes, you should use a couple. Lifts do leak and fall on rare occasions all it takes is a hose clamp to break and a slow leak will drop your lift over a week or two, or your kids don't get the valve fully closed.
Click to expand...

So, you guys both have inflatable lifts, right? Do you know anything about what I'll call the "normal" lift (gear)? Do people usually not use tie-off lines with these? Maybe I just missed them - but I don't recall seeing lines with this type?
 
Gary,

Is your HydroHoist a newer model with alll of the framework above the water or an older model with metal bands around the tanks? The reason i ask is because mine was an older model with the bands. After about five years, the lower bands required replacement due to rust even though the bands were galvanized. If yours is an older model, i would have the lower bands inspected and replaced if necessary.

Again, very nice looking boat.
 
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For the steering wheel, try ebay, flounder pounder marine or great lakes skipper.

I use a Fortress FX-7 aluminum anchor and about six feet of rubber coated chain. The FX-7 has great holding power, is very light and works well on our lake (clay bottom). It will fit in your anchor locker. However, if you want to use the built in locker brackets, you will need to trim both sides of the anchor stock.
 
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Guys - Thanks for all of the responses. But, before I reply I really need some help with a few things:


  1. What's the policy on posting pictures here? I got pics to post before, but now the system is telling me I only have 26kb of picture storage left. Do I have to become a supporter to get reasonable storage?
  2. Is there a way to get the thread to show where the most recent post is the last one on the last page? I currently have it in "linear mode" and the most recent post shows at the top of the 1st page. This drives me bananas. :smt101
  3. Brakes: I knew that the trailer brakes weren't working very well on the trip home, and tried to add fluid but couldn't get the master cylinder open. Today I got it open and found it was dry and rusty. So, I filled it up and tried to bleed the wheel cylinders. After absolutely no luck I pulled a wheel cylinder off and found that the piston is rusted to the cylinder. So, I'm sure the other one is and that the MC is as well. Given that, do I replace the whole hydraulic surge system or go electric and put a controller on my truck? I lean to the latter as that'll give me better brakes and, I think, fewer problems. What say ye?

SeaRide - I don't know what style the lift is. Guess I'd better go out there and see. But I think it has the framework above the tanks. And, thanks for the compliment! We are thrilled that we found something so nice at a price we were willing to pay. Now, if it just runs as good as it sounds! (I'm running the stereo while the boat is in my shop and I'm working on it.)

Dennis - The boats I looked at in the marina had lines on them fore and aft. So, that's what got me thinking I should tie it. But, why can't I tie two lines to the bow eye and go to the dock on either side, and then one each on the rear tie-down points where you secure the boat to the trailer? That way the cover won't have to clear the cleats. Reasonable?

randmhall - Thanks. I appreciate you taking the time to find the cover for my boat at Overton's. As it turns out, I have the same cover bookmarked in my Evernote list of boat needs. (Surely y'all use Evernote?) However, I'm not sure I want to use sandbags as it sounds like a hassle getting the cover on and off. Is there any chance that drawstring would hold the cover when the boat is in the slip?

Also, I agree on the lines, but would rather not use the cleats. And, with four lines even if the lift sinks the boat will stay in the middle of the slip as the tie-down points on the dock are roughly half-way from where the bow eye would be when the boat is in the water and where it'll be when the lift is all of the way up.
 
SeaRide said:
For the steering wheel, try ebay, flounder pounder marine or great lakes skipper.

I use a Fortress FX-7 aluminum anchor and about six feet of rubber coated chain. The FX-7 has great holding power, is very light and works well on our lake (clay bottom). It will fit in your anchor locker. However, if you want to use the built in locker brackets, you will need to trim both sides of the anchor stock.
Click to expand...

That's the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks! What about fenders - what size will fit in the anchor locker?
 
Gary,

I have four 8" by 20" Taylormade fenders with socks. They will not fit in the anchor locker. One or two 6" by 15" fenders might fit in the anchor locker. I store the fenders in the helm storage. I originally purchased 6" by 15" fenders, which will work fine in areas with no wake action. However, they are less than ideal for rafting or areas subject to wake or wave action. Years ago, we were waked by a Master Craft during a raft up. Unfortunately, i thought the smaller fenders would be fine. They were not. So, my rubrail traded fiberglass with a friend's boat. Neither one of us were happy. DNR found the owner of the MC and he paid for the fiberglass repairs.

If you do not want a cover with slits, you can drape the dock lines under the cover or use the bow/stern eyes. If I had to do it all over again, I would have had slits sewn into the cover. Also, you may want to consider having slits with velcro sewn for the bimini top as stated in one of my earlier posts. I do not have these slits for my cover, so I end up removing the bimini top each and laying it across the rear u-shaped bench seat. This may not work for your generation of 230/240s as SR changed the design of the storage inlays running between the bench seat and console/helm storage.

As far as the propellers are concerned, a pair of 24" propellers will probably keep you right at 5,200 rpm with a full load and 90 degree heat. Once again, I would wait and see how she performs (as you stated) with the current prop set. Also, send islandhopper00 a private message regarding Hill Marine and four by four propellers. I believe he has a set for his 240 Sundancer.
 
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SeaRide - Thanks for the info on fenders. I'm hoping the 6" jobs will work for me as we don't raft and the marinas are well protected from wakes.

And, thanks for the info on islandhopper00. I sent him a PM.

But, somehow I missed your point earlier about the Bimini. So I'm glad you reiterated. I'll check today to see if it'll lay in the boat neatly and how easily that is done. Thanks!!!
 
Gary Lewis said:
Guys - Thanks for all of the responses. But, before I reply I really need some help with a few things:


  1. What's the policy on posting pictures here? I got pics to post before, but now the system is telling me I only have 26kb of picture storage left. Do I have to become a supporter to get reasonable storage?
  2. Is there a way to get the thread to show where the most recent post is the last one on the last page? I currently have it in "linear mode" and the most recent post shows at the top of the 1st page. This drives me bananas. :smt101
  3. Brakes: I knew that the trailer brakes weren't working very well on the trip home, and tried to add fluid but couldn't get the master cylinder open. Today I got it open and found it was dry and rusty. So, I filled it up and tried to bleed the wheel cylinders. After absolutely no luck I pulled a wheel cylinder off and found that the piston is rusted to the cylinder. So, I'm sure the other one is and that the MC is as well. Given that, do I replace the whole hydraulic surge system or go electric and put a controller on my truck? I lean to the latter as that'll give me better brakes and, I think, fewer problems. What say ye?

SeaRide - I don't know what style the lift is. Guess I'd better go out there and see. But I think it has the framework above the tanks. And, thanks for the compliment! We are thrilled that we found something so nice at a price we were willing to pay. Now, if it just runs as good as it sounds! (I'm running the stereo while the boat is in my shop and I'm working on it.)

Dennis - The boats I looked at in the marina had lines on them fore and aft. So, that's what got me thinking I should tie it. But, why can't I tie two lines to the bow eye and go to the dock on either side, and then one each on the rear tie-down points where you secure the boat to the trailer? That way the cover won't have to clear the cleats. Reasonable?

randmhall - Thanks. I appreciate you taking the time to find the cover for my boat at Overton's. As it turns out, I have the same cover bookmarked in my Evernote list of boat needs. (Surely y'all use Evernote?) However, I'm not sure I want to use sandbags as it sounds like a hassle getting the cover on and off. Is there any chance that drawstring would hold the cover when the boat is in the slip?

Also, I agree on the lines, but would rather not use the cleats. And, with four lines even if the lift sinks the boat will stay in the middle of the slip as the tie-down points on the dock are roughly half-way from where the bow eye would be when the boat is in the water and where it'll be when the lift is all of the way up.
Click to expand...

Just saw your thread. I bought a Westland Sunbrella cover through iBoats and absolutely love it. Not cheap, but a good cover. Very high quality and completely waterproof if put on correctly. It's my impression that you have to pay for an upgrade membership on this site to get more picture storage. I also had the same problem with the early posts showing up last or vice-versa. If i remember correctly, I chose hybrid mode for display of the posts. Regarding your brakes, unless you can get them to break loose, you'll probably have to replace wheel and master cylinders. Sorry, I don't have any experience with electric brakes. Welcome!
 
Thanks, I'll follow up on that cover. But, does it have slits for the cleats?

As for the brakes, I've converted to electric. The original brakes were on the front axle, but everything I've read says brakes should be on the rear axle. So, I put them on the rear and inspected all the bearings at that time. And I installed new LED lights on the trailer, added a Bull Dog connector in place of the surge one, and installed a connection box and break-away battery. With new wiring everything seems to work well, although we haven't connected the trailer to the truck yet. And, speaking of the truck, I also added a brake controller to my '81 F150 so he's now ready to properly tow the boat.

After a trip to the slip today to adjust the lift to the boat's hull dimensions, we hope to take the boat out there tomorrow. Will report back on how that goes. :grin:
 
Gary, am I correct in that you put a "normal" electric brake setup on there? I'm not saying it hasn't been done, but the better system is called Electric Over Hydraulic. In your system, you are dunking electric stuff in water. In the EOH system, the actual brakes are still the same as you originally had on the trailer, but controlled by a hydraulic unit on the trailer frame. That unit is then controlled electrically from the cab.

It would be VERY advisable to get brakes on both axles. In some states, it's required by law.

Why brakes on just the back? It would seem that, like cars, the weight of braking is transferred more to the front?
 
Dennis - I did put "regular" electric brakes on rather than EOH. My reasoning was that the hydraulic I had was totally and completely rusted, so just adding an electric solenoid to drive the master cylinder rather than the surge approach wouldn't have kept them from rusting. I am aware, however, that proper maintenance would have saved the brakes as well, but it wasn't done and they were toast.

But, I didn't make the decision w/o research. The reading I did said the electric brakes are at least as reliable when being dunked in fresh water as hydraulic. Then I talked to several people who have electric boat trailer brakes and all said they have worked better than hydraulic. Last, I talked to the guy that runs the local trailer shop, which services many boat trailers, and he said he always put electric brakes on the trailers he builds and suggests people go with them on the ones he repairs.

As for which axle, both the reading I did on-line as well as the local guy said the rear axle is typically used. And the reason usually given was that it puts the braking closer to the rear of the trailer which tends to straighten the rig more under braking than if the front axle is used. But no one discussed weight transfer, so I can only guess on that. My thinking is that with a vehicle by itself the nose goes down and the rear tries to come up, taking the load off the rear tires. But with a boat the nose can't go down as it is attached to the tow vehicle. In fact, if there is any weight transfer on the tow vehicle the tongue is likely to go up on the trailer, rather than down. So, I don't think weight transfer is a problem with trailers like on cars or trucks.

Concerning both axles having brakes, the trailer only had brakes on one axle from the factory, and even then they were only surge. So, I didn't see a need to add more brakes, just much better ones - and all the reading I've done says that electric trailer brakes are far superior to surge brakes. However, I did set things up so that adding brakes to the front axle can be easily done. I just wanted to see how the rig would stop with two wheels braking and then can add the others.

But, I do appreciate the suggestions and input. Thanks!
 
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