newbie winterizing

Gasman

Member
May 30, 2015
80
Great Lakes
Boat Info
2001 29' sun dancer sold
2000 340 sundancer
Engines
Twin 5.0 mercruiser
7.1 v-drives
Hello guys I just bought my first boat which is a 2001 290 sundancer... I'm getting ready to winterize it.... just wondering how difficult is it to do for the first time boat owner to do???? I know alot of people do it themselves.... I have watched alot of videos on how to do it doesn't seem too hard but don't want to miss something and end up paying more for repairs than it would cost to pay someone to winterize it.... I am rather handy but by no means a mechanic lol.....
 
simple ... Run pink thru all water systems and raw water side of motor. Fog motors thru TB or carb with fogging oil or mystery oil. tons of videos on YouTube on this.
 
simple ... Run pink thru all water systems and raw water side of motor. Fog motors thru TB or carb with fogging oil or mystery oil. tons of videos on YouTube on this.

Search this site for winterization and there are lots of threads about it. I do my cabin water systems (freshwater, ice maker, air conditioner, and the fresh water side of the water heater) but not the engines. If something gets messed up with the engine side, the damage is VERY expensive. If the marina screws up, they fix the problem. Maybe when I am retired I will do it myself.
 
I have a very similar boat to you and will be doing my own (first year with this boat, but not first boat)

Download the service manual for both the motor and the outdrives and review the sections for winter layup. There's a bunch of lube/greasing that should be done as part of winterization as well. I also remove the outdrives yearly to inspect the bellows, lube the gimbal bearing, etc.

I will warn you these boats can be a bit of a nightmare in the engine room. I'm still young and consider myself a smaller guy so hanging sideways/upside down to get to the drain plugs doesn't bother me but there is a lot of working by feel. For example, the cool fuel drain plug is on the port side of the engines so getting to the stbd engine block and fuel drain means reaching your hand down between the manifolds and essentially working blind.

I've done my research so let me know if I can answer any specific questions for you.
 
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Watched a few videos water systems don't seem too hard A/C little questionable..... motor a little more worried.... the "pink stuff" everyone oscor talking and is just rv anti freeze correct
 
Watched a few videos water systems don't seem too hard A/C little questionable..... motor a little more worried.... the "pink stuff" everyone oscor talking and is just rv anti freeze correct

Yes they are referring to the RV stuff. That is what I use for the fresh water systems. Some will tell you you can just blow out the lines with air and not use the antifreeze, but I don't risk it. I drain as much water as I can and then run "pink" through till it comes out the other end of all systems. That way any residual water is replaced with antifreeze. It also ensures that the toilet lines, water tank, water heater, etc all have antifreeze.

I think that the marine mechanics use a different kind of non-toxic anti freeze for the engines that has some anti-corrosion properties. That is another reason I leave that part to the pro's.
 
Watched a few videos water systems don't seem too hard A/C little questionable..... motor a little more worried.... the "pink stuff" everyone oscor talking and is just rv anti freeze correct

There are 2-kinds of pink-propylene glycol is for the engine and can also be used everywhere. This kind has rust inhibitors. The other I believe contains ethylene glycol and is fine for AC and water system. To me, it is easier to just buy the one kind.

Bennett
 
Agreed. West Marine has the anti corrosion for 5.99/gallon free shipping right to the house if you spend more than $50 so I ordered 10 gallons of it.
 
There are 2-kinds of pink-propylene glycol is for the engine and can also be used everywhere. This kind has rust inhibitors. The other I believe contains ethylene glycol and is fine for AC and water system. To me, it is easier to just buy the one kind.

Bennett

Ethylene Glycol is POISONOUS and is for engines only, never for drinking water systems. It also cannot be dumped into rivers, lakes or oceans.

Marine engine non-toxic and RV antifreeze is Propylene Glycol based. It is not poisonous. The marine non-toxic engine version has propylene glycol plus some anti rust additives. It should not be used in drinking water systems either.

Some people just use the RV stuff in the engines, but it does not fight corrosion.
 
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Bennett, sorry but that is not correct. Propylene Glycol is POISONOUS and is for engines only, never for drinking water systems. It also cannot be dumped into rivers, lakes or oceans.

Marine engine non-toxic and RV antifreeze is Ethylene Glycol based. It is not poisonous. The marine non-toxic engine version has ethylene glycol plus some anti rust additives. It should not be used in drinking water systems either.

Some people just use the RV stuff in the engines, but it does not fight corrosion.

May I ask your opinion on this stuff for potable water systems?

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/pure-...ine-water-system-antifreeze--P004_134_003_504

It says it is forumulated with a virgin nontox propylene glycol
 
Probably the most help we can provide is if you share what you plan to do specific to your boat. There are good and bad practices. Also where is your boat being stored in the winter?
 
Bennett, sorry but that is not correct. Propylene Glycol is POISONOUS and is for engines only, never for drinking water systems. It also cannot be dumped into rivers, lakes or oceans.

Marine engine non-toxic and RV antifreeze is Ethylene Glycol based. It is not poisonous. The marine non-toxic engine version has ethylene glycol plus some anti rust additives. It should not be used in drinking water systems either.



Some people just use the RV stuff in the engines, but it does not fight corrosion.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol

You are correct only if large quatities are ingested in a short amount of time. I have used it for years and know many that do likewise. If you check out the link, you will see that we all likely consume some in our daily diets. I have no problem at all with using it in my water system as I always flush it well anyway.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze

Check out this link at the bottom of page 1. It talks more about the different types of antifreeze.

http://www.splashwash.com/files/151...arine_Antifreeze_-50F_GRAS_LQ__Bulk_SDS_1.pdf

MSDS sheet for Splash -50 RV/Marine Antifreeze with propylene glycol


Bennett
 
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I just realized I had the two backwards. I modified my last post. Ethylene glycol is the poisonous one and is what automotive antifreeze is made from. It should not be used in drinking water systems.
 
Just to clear things up here, in regards to antifreeze...

Ethylene is used in the "normal" antifreeze... like what you have in a car. The terms get confusing because they all sound so much alike. The "pink" antifreezes we use around boats (and RV's) do not use ethylene. There are two basic types of pink AF...

Propylene Glycol -- Safe for BOTH engines and water systems (it's non-tox). Also has corrosion inhibitors.
Ethyl Alcohol -- Safe for ONLY water systems. No corrosion inhibitors. Basically, this is ethanol... I suppose you could get drunk on it, but there are better ways to do that!

And... Wish's comment is the best comment of the thread!
 

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