newbie- explanation of 3 position "battery switch" in bilge

[True North]

I performed a search on this topic, but still had some questions please
1991 250DA 454 7.4l Bravo One
Stored and trailered, transient weekend warrior in a slip

2 batteries. Battery switch with 4 positions (Bat 1, Bat 2, OFF, BOTH)

Questions:
1) When hooked up to shore power, does it matter what positon of the battery switch is in to charge both batteries? Is there a switch in the electrical panel in the cabin that has to be "ON" for charging to occur?

2) Do you normally run the boat in one or the other position and use the other as a back up if you don't have enough juice to start?

3) My theory is that you always want to have it on BAT 1 or BAT 2 but not on BOTH when on anchor to avoid draining both batteries from lights, stereo, GPS, etc. on and not having enough juice to start the motor (I do not have a generator). Is this correct?

4) If I am off on my thinking, can someone please explain or provide scenarios why you would want to set switch to BAT 1, BAT 2, BOTH??? I typically switch to OFF when boat is in storage or on trailer.

Thanks for your assistance.

Oh, and one more non-related. I read on another post (absolutly LOVE this website by the way) about a filter that should be replaced for the head system a small cylindrical tube like structure between the head and the waste tank??? How often should that be changed and how do you know if it is working vs. clogged/full?

Thanks again for any assistance. I'm finding so much knowledge with this site and appreciate the "experts" helping out us newbies!

 

[ks65609]

True North

1) There should be a switch on your breaker panel for your on board charger (AC converter)
2) When running I leave my battery switch always in the two position
3) At anchor I alternate between battery 1 and 2 each time we are out but never leave set on two when not running without shore power.
4)When in storage I would suggest disconnecting your batteries to eliminate any draw
One of your batteries may be a deep cycle indicated by the type and cranking amps. Typically deep cycle have much higher cranking amps for a longer period of time. If you in fact do have a deep cycle battery, that would be the one to utilize when on the hook and save the cranking battery for engine fire up.

I believe you are referring to the vent filter that is normally placed in the holding tank vent line that exits through the hull. I am not sure what the normal replacement guide lines are however I replace mine at the slightest hint of any odours. They are in the area of $100 in my neck of the woods and easy to replace yourself.

Hope this helps
Ken

 

[Lazy Daze]

"When hooked up to shore power, does it matter what positon of the battery switch is in to charge both batteries?"
If you're battery charger is hooked up properly (direct to batteries) then it makes no difference as to what position the switch is in. Yes, you can turn it to off when leaving the boat (assuming your bilge pump is hooked up correctly, direct to a battery - if you ever leave it in the water, that is).

"Is there a switch in the electrical panel in the cabin that has to be "ON" for charging to occur?"
Yes, the switch (actually it's a breaker) is probably labelled "converter".

"My theory is that you always want to have it on BAT 1 or BAT 2 but not on BOTH when on anchor to avoid draining both batteries from lights, stereo, GPS, etc. on and not having enough juice to start the motor (I do not have a generator). Is this correct?"
Yes.

Typically, run the engine on one battery or the other since it will charge better and avoid a problem on the off chance that the engine is pulling the battery down. However, try to alternate the usage of each battery (from day to day) equally. One way is to use the #1 battery on odd days (of the calendar) and #2 on even.

Do a search for "fart filter" or "head filter" - that should get you plenty info. Generally, replace (or recharge) it every few years or when your nose tells you to. CHECK ON THIS: Make sure that the filter is situated such that it is on a slight incline as it leaves the holding tank, and don't wait till the last minute to do a pump out.

 

[kbsunlovers]

The boys have given you great info, here's our setup FWIW:

Position 1: House bank of 2X Trojan 6V
Position 2: 12V Deep cycle marine as starter
Both: Obvious
Off: 12V circuit is off.

I run in position (both) when underway - my house bank (P1) does not charge off the alt if I have the switch set to (P2).

I run only the House bank (P1) when on the hook. It will deliver for the weekend when running the fridge & lights. I reserve the starter.

Both banks charge when hooked to shore power and switch is off, Inverter/breaker on the panel is on. I can also use AC accessories in that configuration.

 

[AKBASSKING]

Great answer Dennis. Not to hijack the thread, but I set my boat up where the start batteries are only for starting the engines and a separate battery for the "house" battery. Charger hooked to house battery and my stbd engine has a battery isolator so when it is running it will also charge the house battery. So why would I need a battery switch?

If you dump your poop tank every time you end your weekend and add some toilet blue stuff, why throw $100 away on a filter. I have never smelled any odors. Oh I forgot I am one of the few here on CSR that actually uses the head.....:grin:

 

[True North]

Great info guys, and thanks for all the other pointers. As for using the head.....well in a boat with 2 young girls and a wife that has to get up to go potty multiple times a night, it get's used. Even in the heat of the summer, some of those nights are too cool at 4am to run out to the potty's on land! I do try to keep the rule of no solids in the tank.....but again, 2 yound girls The blue stuff and multiple pump outs keeps the orders non-existent.

Actually, my father in law is in the process of fabricating me a custome stainless steel holding tank as mine last year sprang a small leak on the last week of usage around the threads in the tank. You want to talk about a mess! But removal of the tank and a good cleaning of the bilge and good to go. Now I will have a larger tank that will virtually be indestructible.

thanks again to all the help and looking forward to our first full-season of great lakes boating.