New Transmission Needed??

Bryank

Member
Jul 3, 2008
455
Catawba Island, OH
Boat Info
2001 410DA
Engines
Mercruiser 8.1S Horizons
Okay fellow CSRers... bear with me as I'm not very mechanical and will try to relay this issue to you as I best understand it...

Earlier this week, I took my boat out for a 10-mile run to the Lake Erie Islands. I noticed a lot of vibration in both engines and attributed it to the engines being out of synch. I played around with the RPMs the entire ride but couldn't get the vibration to go away. Anyhow, on our way back I experienced the same thing. I immediately put a call into my mechanic and he sea trialed the boat, felt the same vibration, and hauled it out for inspection.

Turns out I apparently hit something at some point this year (though I can't recall any incident) as there was some evidence of this on both the rudder and starboard shaft. He also said that my coupler on the starboard shaft (forward of the transmission) had only one bolt remaining on it (out of four)! The others had been sheared off at some point and I just never thought to check that as a pre-inspection point when I go out. It seems that every time I would put the engine in reverse, the coupler would bang up against the face of the transmission. The quick fix (which has been done) was to put on new bolts to keep the coupler in place and reduce the vibration. Easy enough. Now I just need to check and tighten them every time before I leave the dock.

However, my mechanic is suggesting that this warrants a larger fix and I need to replace the starboard transmission. We're talking about a $15k fix and, while it would likely be covered under insurance, I'm not entirely clear why I need to go to this extreme. My first concern was time out of the water (about 2 weeks) and my mechanic said that we could do this after the season as long as I just kept an eye on the coupler/bolts. In his words, "you can't break broken" and I won't do any more damage as long as I stay on top of it. Yes, the coupler has worn away part of the face of the transmission, but there are no leaks and it doesn't appear that there is any real serious damage.

What do all of you think? My mechanic is very reputable so I'm not concerned about him trying to pull a fast one here, but I just can't seem to justify a new transmission due to this issue.

Would love your thoughts...
 
I haven't seen the damage, but here is an opinion:

See all those vertical and horizontal "ribs" on the gear case? They are there to add strength to the case of the transmission which is the part that eventually takes all the thrust of the propeller. If the coupler has rubbed the gear case then it is thinner and not as strong in the rubbed area, so you may be courting a future disaster while under way if you don't address it. While "you can't break broken" you certainly can turn broken into a disaster y ignoring it.

As far as replacing the transmission, I have to ask "why your mechanic cannot order a gasket set, a new coupler set, and a new housing then just replace the output end of the gear? PErhaps it is because this isn't an easy nor a cheap job from a labor hours standpoint; perhaps it is because this is beyond the scope of this mechanics ability (transmissions can be tricky beasts to work on and many leak fluid after being broken open), or perhaps you telegraphed your limited mechanical experience and the mechanic sees a big payday working in a warm shop to tide him over the winter......who knows.

My last point is that changing a transmission isn't brain surgery and if the work is planned properly should cost about 1/2 what you were estimated. I had to replace a transmission due to an internal failure a few years ago. It is a v-drive in a bigger diesel powered boat which means a larger transmission. The engine doesn't need to be removed. I did some of the planning and prep work and did the parts repainting, but used the lead mechanic at a Sea Ray dealer for the actual uncoupling and install. My total cost, including the new transmission, haul out, and labor was $7200.

Good luck with it............
 
Frank, thanks for your reply. As it turns out, looks like you are correct about it costing too much in labor to just replace what needs to be fixed and replacing the whole transmission is an easier solution. I am a bit concerned about the cost I am being told by my mechanic versus what you paid for yours. I'll stay on top of this and see if the estimate can be brought down (the original $15k was a "ballpark"). I'll provide an update once everything is sorted out.

Thanks again!
 
Bryan,

I went though this exact same scenario last year. I Didn't hit anything, but all of the sudden I had a violent vibration in the port side transmission. Thought it was seaweed and continued on. Once i made it to the islands put it in reverse to dock and sheared 3 of 4 coupler bolts. The shaft and coupler moved back and wore away my housing to the point i was leaking fluid out the housing.

Long story short, the bearing carrier failed allowing my shaft to move freely inside the transmission case. Sorry to say that cost me a new transmission.

Now for your mechanics ballpark price he is more than double. If you need me to give you the shop use feel free to contact me.

Here last years saga...

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...nsmission-Not-a-fun-labor-day?highlight=zorba
 
Last edited:
Frank, thanks for your reply. As it turns out, looks like you are correct about it costing too much in labor to just replace what needs to be fixed and replacing the whole transmission is an easier solution. I am a bit concerned about the cost I am being told by my mechanic versus what you paid for yours. I'll stay on top of this and see if the estimate can be brought down (the original $15k was a "ballpark"). I'll provide an update once everything is sorted out.

Thanks again!

I had my STB transmission replaced as part of the purchase 2 years ago (PO paid for it). I got a brand new transmission installed for $5300. No haul out was needed, it was replaced in the water.
 
Zorba... Wow, that sucks. Glad you got it all taken care of but sounded like quite an ordeal.

I will be on my mechanic about price once the final estimate comes in. For me, it's just the deductible but I don't need my insurance dropping me!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
For this to be covered by your insurance, the adjuster is going to have to see evidence of your hardware striking an underwater obstruction. Absent that, it becomes a case of "poor maintenance" for not checking the torque on the coupler bolts.

I'm not making a judgment here, just making you aware of the way some insurance companies avoid paying claims.
 
Frank, there is evidence I hit something on both the shaft and rudder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would call your insurance company immediately. Have them pay for the haul out and have everything checked. If you hit something, I would want my shafts and props checked. The insurance company is only responsible for what ever was damaged as a result of the initial impact. They may be able to say that you did not repair the issue immediately and it caused the bolts to loosen and sheer off. Therefore, damaging the housing. Don't wait to involve the insurance company. Get on the phone and file the claim immediately.

Just my opinion
Steve
 
I would call your insurance company immediately. Have them pay for the haul out and have everything checked. If you hit something, I would want my shafts and props checked. The insurance company is only responsible for what ever was damaged as a result of the initial impact. They may be able to say that you did not repair the issue immediately and it caused the bolts to loosen and sheer off. Therefore, damaging the housing. Don't wait to involve the insurance company. Get on the phone and file the claim immediately.

Just my opinion
Steve

Good advice... I'm on this already.
 
For this to be covered by your insurance, the adjuster is going to have to see evidence of your hardware striking an underwater obstruction. Absent that, it becomes a case of "poor maintenance" for not checking the torque on the coupler bolts.

I'm not making a judgment here, just making you aware of the way some insurance companies avoid paying claims.


Is checking the coupler bolts listed as routine or preventative or routine maintenance by searay? Have same issue right now
 
I have a copy of the 1996 new product manual for Sea Ray dealers covering Palm Coast built boats. Checking the torque on the coupler bolts is a required dealer service prior to launching new boats.

I've owned this boat since 1997 and I check the coupler bolts every year.…………..but I have never found any loose.

But, I've had both shafts loose and partially removed or removed several times so I know the bolts were properly torqued when the couplers were reattached.
 
Is checking the coupler bolts listed as routine or preventative or routine maintenance by searay? Have same issue right now


I have read these posts on the coupler bolts and have checked mine quite regularly as I believe I am pretty ADD on maintenance, so I thought. On our trip out last weekend about 4 miles across Buzzards Bay i felt a sudden vibration. Stopped the boat, took a dive under against my wives wishes as I thought we had picked up a line or something. Nothing!!

Opened up the engine hatch to find 3 of the 4 coupler bolts on the star motor snapped off. I caught this early enough not too do any damage to the transmission. Called our local dealer at 1.30pm that closed at 2pm. For $10 he left the pre packed bag of 4 nuts, bolts and lock washers at the door. Thank fully, Replaced the bolts with loc- tite and back on the way with no further issues. What I thought was a weekend over was saved, thankfully.. I now added a spare bag to my parts collection.

***Note to all, check these coupler bolts regularly. ***
 

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