New trailer questions??

[Lugnutz]

I am looking at a 270 Amberjack. It’s 27’ long and has a 10’ beam, probably 10k pounds loaded. It does not have a trailer so I am looking around for options. The boat will be used in saltwater. I want to go triple axle and brakes on all three axles for sure.

I have done some looking around and it seems like the metal and aluminum trailer prices are comparable. I know there are pros and cons to metal versus aluminum but what is the preference nowadays?

What are you guys using for suspension, leaf spring or torsion axle?

Also, any experience with yacht club trailers?

 

[William R. Thomas]

I own a 2006 270 AJ, which I purchased new. When I bought the boat, I had the dealer order a new Eagle Trailer for the boat. It is dual axle with Disc Brakes on all four wheels. I tow this behind a Chevy 1-ton Dually with the Duramax Deisel. I tow the boat twice a year, (to and from my marina) a distance of 125 mile in each direction. It is a steel trailer (Lake Erie, fresh water). I have had no problems with the trailer, and the dual axle performs great with no problems. The factory GVW of the trailer is 12,000 pounds.

 

[Dick270da]

I prefer aluminum, I've had painted and galvanized steel. I'm usually in salt water and feel there is less maintenance, I've had rust on the steel trailers. The 10' beam on the amberjack you're looking at is 1.5' over the legal limit in most states. This means trying your luck towing it or getting permits for every tow. I trailer my boat several times a month and haven't had a problem so far (9.0' beam). Triple axle with brakes on all three axles will certainly get you stopped. Go with disc brakes, they dry out faster after you launch and are virtually maintenance free, I rinse my with Salt Away after I get home and flush and clean. One problem with aluminum trailers is they flex. I have a turnbuckle that I run from the bow eye (in addition to the winch strap) that goes down to the trailer frame. This keeps the bow against the bow roller and eliminates the flexing.

 

[Gofirstclass]

Before you select a dual-axle or triple-axle, look at the weight carrying capability of both. You want to put your boat on a trailer where the weight of the loaded boat will be somewhere in the mid-range for the weight capability of the trailer. For example, if you put your boat on a triple-axle trailer and the weight of the boat is at or near the low end of the trailer's weight rating, the boat will always have a hard ride. That's because it doesn't weigh enough to sufficiently compress the springs. It will get jostled, bumped and shocked every time you tow it.

You're much better off picking a trailer that's best suited for your boat. I had a triple axle trailer with brakes on all axles and a torsion suspension for my 330 DA (14,000 lbs loaded weight) . We towed it all over the place (longest trip 300 miles each way) and the boat rode well.

By the way, triple axle trailers aren't as easy to maneuver when backing as a dual-axle trailer. There's more scuffing and wear on the tires when you're backing it, so be aware of that.

 

[Gunn]

In salt water my preference would be an aluminum trailer with disc brakes. I have a single axle galvanized trailer and it still shows rust in various places that I've had to touch up often. I have a triple axle trailer for my 280DA with surge disc brakes on two of the axles, with leaf springs that I got with the boat last fall. Over the winter I basically replaced -all- of the steel on that trailer. New leaf springs all around, new brakes all around, new surge coupler, a couple of brackets... If this were a steel trailer, it would be in the junk yard by now.

 

[Lugnutz]

I was looking at triple axles mostly for the extra stopping power and for the peace of mind in any tire blow out issues. I already planned on getting the yearly permit since it’s not a big deal in this state.

The Searay website claims the boat has a dry weight of 6800. It has the fly bridge option so I am adding another 500 lbs. to that which would make it roughly 7300lbs. Throw in the batteries, fuel, water and all the other “stuff” and my guess is that it would be pushing 10k. Which I would think would put me into the 12k range trailer.

I have read about the flex in the aluminum trailers and have seen pictures of what people have done to support it. Is that typical of all or most aluminum trailers?

 

[Dick270da]

In my experience aluminum trailers flex. I also prefer torsion axles, no springs or shackles to rust. Searay claims a dry weight of 5800 lbs on my boat. According to the local truck scales my 35' aluminum trailer weighs 1550 lbs. with a total weight of 9660 lbs., leaving 8110 lbs for the boat. It does have a/c and a genset. I had a blowout and drove slowly for about a mile until I got to a place I was comfortable changing the tire. The single load range E tire handled the load with no problem. That was over a year ago and I'm still running that tire, trailering often. My axles are rated at 5200 lbs. each, so I'm running close to max. Hope this helps!

 

[390pi]

My '92 290DA is 11,100# with the trailer. I am also oversize, but w/ 9' beam.

The "published" Sea Ray numbers are way off.

I went triple axle, with torsion axles and discs on all 6 wheels.

Trailer is steel and cost me $6k (@ cost) ordered though a Sea Ray dealer.

I would suggest getting factory detachable guides for the trailer; helps with crosswind loading.

 

[MonacoMike]

Both Magic tilt and Continental of FL make nice big boat aluminum trailers. The advice on disc brakes is spot on, but there are salt water grade, occasional salt water grade, and base models available. Be cautious not to get brakes with inadequate corrosion resistance for your use. MM

 

[shuizen]

I got my boat custom made here - http://www.texallaluminum.com/

The trailer has been good. I got a triple axle with 2 brake axles. The trailer has a GVW of 10K and the axles are rated for 13.5K.

I did brake out a tail light recently...