New Starboard mount for my new Generator

A

Arl798

New Member
Feb 26, 2011
181
Saskatchewan Canada / Key West Florida
Boat Info
400 Sea Ray Sedan Bridge
Engines
Twin Cat 3116
Today my Girlfriend sent me pictures from the installation of my new platform the Genset will sit on.

I haven't got to see it in person but sure looks a lot nicer then the rotting piece of painted wood that was bellow it, cause by the hatch overhead leaking.







Wherever you are just be thankful you are not here....It's -43F in Alberta.

 
Geeesh, and I thought our 20* was cold. You can keep those sub zero temps up there, thank you very much.

That Starboard mount looks good. Did you make that or have it done somewhere. Whoever did it did a nice job.

BTW, what the heck is that drilling machine for? Is the ice up there that thick that you need that thing to make holes for ice fishing?
 
Too late already shipping it SOUTH!!!! haha

The Westerbeke dealer that is replacing my Genset did it. $375 for Starboard and not sure what install will be but hopefully not to bad. He took the old one out so he had a template. I am pretty happy with it as well.

As for the Drill that slant oil Rig. This is how 97% of the "oil sands" in Alberta are recovered, contrary to what the media has people believing.


Gofirstclass said:
Geeesh, and I thought our 20* was cold. You can keep those sub zero temps up there, thank you very much.

That Starboard mount looks good. Did you make that or have it done somewhere. Whoever did it did a nice job.

BTW, what the heck is that drilling machine for? Is the ice up there that thick that you need that thing to make holes for ice fishing?
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That looks GREAT! I was cold last week at 20f. -43, I do not think i can truly appreciate that. Looks
great. Please post pictures when installation is done, JC
 
Good to hear from you Ari. I was in Toronto a couple weeks ago and it was pretty cold. Same week Buffalo got all the snow. Coming to Alberta in March or April. I'll look you up.

If folks could see how the oil is extracted up there they would be crying to have it imported here. Cleaner water and sand come from the process than when it was extracted. Media spin and the American ignorance keep us connected to the OPEC t1t
 
Arl798 said:
As for the Drill that slant oil Rig. This is how 97% of the "oil sands" in Alberta are recovered, contrary to what the media has people believing.
Click to expand...

I know you're lying because I don't see one dead baby seal or human with 3 eyeballs in that picture. I saw on the news ....
 
New Genny arrived...Nice and shinny


My question is...Does anyone use anti corrosion spray like the Boeing T9 or anything like that on there engines to keep them in good shape? My dealer is hesitant to put anything on it. I told him to use as much as it can handle.

 
I do not and it really isn't necessary if you keep the bilge dry. The other thing I have discovered is that no matter how good you or your mechanic is, when ever you change the impeller on thew little-bitty sea water pump, the face plate eventually leaks, primarily because you are changing it and cleaning the gasket surface blind and by feel. I don't rebuild my Westerbeke pump anymore.....I replace the whole pump. By the time you pay the labor, you have almost the cost of a new pump in the repair anyway and the new ones don't leak. New ones usually go for about 300 hours, but keeping the back side ogf the generator dry is worth it to me. I'd bet the pump leak is what ruined the rear of your original generator............
 
That and the Hatch on the 400 sedan bridge I guess is notorious for leaking and the Gen is right underneath.

Can the anti corrosion spray hurt? This thing is brand new and I wanna keep it looking that way as long as possible.

He also recommended this rubber material used for roofing and basically it is just draped over top and if any water does come through the hatch when we are backing down on fish and such then it just runs off the rubber and into the bilge rather than on top of the Gen.

fwebster said:
I do not and it really isn't necessary if you keep the bilge dry. The other thing I have discovered is that no matter how good you or your mechanic is, when ever you change the impeller on thew little-bitty sea water pump, the face plate eventually leaks, primarily because you are changing it and cleaning the gasket surface blind and by feel. I don't rebuild my Westerbeke pump anymore.....I replace the whole pump. By the time you pay the labor, you have almost the cost of a new pump in the repair anyway and the new ones don't leak. New ones usually go for about 300 hours, but keeping the back side ogf the generator dry is worth it to me. I'd bet the pump leak is what ruined the rear of your original generator............
Click to expand...
 
Arl798 said:
That and the Hatch on the 400 sedan bridge I guess is notorious for leaking and the Gen is right underneath.

Can the anti corrosion spray hurt? This thing is brand new and I wanna keep it looking that way as long as possible.

He also recommended this rubber material used for roofing and basically it is just draped over top and if any water does come through the hatch when we are backing down on fish and such then it just runs off the rubber and into the bilge rather than on top of the Gen.
Click to expand...

I have the same boat. I have an uncovered cockpit and my boat has been through many a local monsoon. Cockpit hatch has never leaked. If you keep the trough around the opening clean and the two drain lines clear, you shouldn't leak a drop. I have had engine room condensation all over the generator, dripping off it to the point it caused a big puddle on the floor. That could be confused as a leak. But I am not dunking the aft end under water either. Is that what you mean by "backing down on fish"?

I have a one year old Westerbeke replacement in mine that was bought during the 2013 Ft Lauderdale boat show mark down. It's painted white. I guess they are back to red this year.
 
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WELL...That's very interesting? I wonder if may that is it...How did you stop this from happening? Def have flooded the cockpit backing down on fish and once when we were out when we should have been drinking margaritas on the dock and waves were crashing over the sides. That day ended with me being partially electrocuted when I was holding on the the handle on the sliding door, but that's a whole other adventure.

ZZ13 said:
I have the same boat. I have an uncovered cockpit and my boat has been through many a local monsoon. Cockpit hatch has never leaked. If you keep the trough around the opening clean and the two drain lines clear, you shouldn't leak a drop. I have had engine room condensation all over the generator, dripping off it to the point it caused a big puddle on the floor. That could be confused as a leak. But I am not dunking the aft end under water either. Is that what you mean by "backing down on fish"?

I have a one year old Westerbeke replacement in mine that was bought during the 2013 Ft Lauderdale boat show mark down. It's painted white. I guess they are back to red this year.
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I can see where flooding the cockpit would bring in water faster than the hatch drain system could drain it away, resulting in overflow into the engine room. So stop doing that. Ha!

My condensation issues only are a winter thing when there is a sudden influx of warm moist atmosphere with the sea water cool (keeping the engine room air cool). Instant condensation. Right now I am trying out Franks light bulb recommendation.
 
Well I am still in Canada and won't be back to my boat till the new year so please report back how it worked out. This is all starting to make sense as I do recall seeing small ghost puddles of water in the runway between the engines and wondering how the hell it got there.
 
Arl798 said:
Well I am still in Canada and won't be back to my boat till the new year so please report back how it worked out. This is all starting to make sense as I do recall seeing small ghost puddles of water in the runway between the engines and wondering how the hell it got there.
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Anything with cool liquid still in it can be a drip source. Holding tank, fresh water tank, fuel tanks, exhaust path (port stainless exhaust elbow is a common drip point on mine), heat exchanger, fresh water lines, etc. One ultra humid and warm day recently i had them all drenched with water at the same time - which led me to start the thread you referenced. So far two bulbs are doing the trick. But haven't had a day like that other one yet to really test it out.
 
2 birds one stone....Finally a properly lit engine room and no condensation. Sounds like a solution to me.

ZZ13 said:
Anything with cool liquid still in it can be a drip source. Holding tank, fresh water tank, fuel tanks, exhaust path (port stainless exhaust elbow is a common drip point on mine), heat exchanger, fresh water lines, etc. One ultra humid and warm day recently i had them all drenched with water at the same time - which led me to start the thread you referenced. So far two bulbs are doing the trick. But haven't had a day like that other one yet to really test it out.
Click to expand...
 
I see mention of 2 bulbs but no thread referenced. In Florida you should be able to handle condensation issues with 2 50W rough service bulbs in explosion proof non-metallic fixtures..........mine cost less then $20ea.

ALso, on the hatch leaking, the inside of the gutter inder the hatch probably had a rubber seal on it from the factory. That allows the gutter around the hatch to catch the water and let it drain overboard thru the scupper without spilling over into the bilge. I tried to look up the 400DB on the SR website, but the parts function isn't working. You will need to call customer service to find out if and what size the rubber piece is. But, there hatches are not designed to be submerged and your cockpit does not have adequate scupper drains for backing down on fish. If you plan to continue doing this, you need to consider adding larger scuppers.
 
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