New Slip - Stern in first. Stern eye bolts ?

Have you checked your outlets with a volt meter? hot to ground, hot to neutral, neutral to ground? If you have no voltage there, go to your circuit breaker panel and check power there. Work your way back with the volt meter to the shore power connection, determine at which point in your wiring where your losing the voltage.
 
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That is exactly how my 300DA was tied up for years and years. If you look in the lower corners of this picture you can see it. Even used the port carabiner to help hold the power cord tucked under the lip of the stern.

boattransom_zps9e9943f0.jpg

Sorry to bring this back to the tie down part of the thread but anyone else have pictures? Been thinking about doing this or adding a cleat inboard of the door so I can access the swim platform. Seems like lots of work and possible structural issues.
 
Sorry to bring this back to the tie down part of the thread but anyone else have pictures? Been thinking about doing this or adding a cleat inboard of the door so I can access the swim platform. Seems like lots of work and possible structural issues.


Any chance you can provide a photo of your setup as it is with crossed lines? Im having trouble visualizing it. I believe the 240 has a "trunk" like ZZ13's does, and possibly a stern shower compartment there to as does ZZ13's. I doubt that fiberglass is reinforced enough to hold a cleat.

The other question is what is your general marina situation like? Are there a lot of waves? Floating Piers? Is the marina protected from the wind? This would play a factor in the amout of strain/snatching that will be placed on the new cleat, or the stern eye bolts.
 
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Aside from big tides and real storms I don't see why stern lines need to be crossed...certainly not necessary on none tidal waters. In some cases it's probably easier to install more dock cleats in the right positions so you can get the best combination of dock lines on your boat rather than modifying the boat
 

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