New Sea Tech Fitting on Hot Water Heater Leaking

C

CaptMaxim

New Member
May 7, 2008
16
Woodbridge, VA (Potomac River)
Boat Info
280 Sundancer, 2002, T-5.0 Mercs, BIII's, Kohler Gen, Custom Cherry Hardwood and Interior
Engines
Twin 5.0 EFI Mercruiser with Bravo III drives
I had a problem with this elbow fitting leaking water at my hot water tank. Leaking so fast that it emptied my fresh water tank on my 2002 280 Sundancer in about 25 min. Thank god the bilge pumps work great!

I just replaced the fitting shown in the pic below with a brand new Sea Tech compression fitting that was supplied by the parts counter at my local Sea Ray dealer. As these parts aren't rocket science, I simply pushed the collar towards the fitting and slid the old one off of the inlet pipe on the hot water heater and then did the same and slid it off of the blue plastic water feed line to remove it. I looked at the tube and inspected it, no cracks, etc. I also inspected the inlet on the water heater and it's round, no cracks, etc.

I slid the new one on and then turned the pump on to the fresh water system and water is still spurting out. This time its coming from the fitting at the tank and not from the blue water supply hose.

Should I have wrapped anything around the inlet tube on the water heater like teflon tape or some other type of water sealant such as silicone to prevent this from happening? I followed the directions on the packaging as they are not difficult by any means however the damn thing is still leaking...

Any advice would be helpful.

fitting.jpg
 
I would use tape and also make sure that you tighten the fitting just enough. If you overtighten the fitting, the cap distorts and leaks occur.

Doug
 
I'll try it tonight and see how it works out. I have some teflon tape onboard so I'll give it shot.
 
I don't think teflon tape is going to help you. These fittings are designed with an O ring inside that seals against the pipe.
I just went through this on my water heater. The pipes over time tend to build a memory under the fittings and eventually start to leak. If you look at the pipe sideways you will see a slight indentation where the fitting rides. If this is in fact the case you have to cut back the pipe or replace it.
Also for these fittings to work it's been my experiance that the system has to be pressurized. When I first turned on my pump after replacing some fittings I had a couple of slight leaks that went away once the system got to normal pressure. I do not leave my pump on when I'm not at the boat so I believe It only has to pressure up that initial 1'st time to seal.
Also did you remove the fitting from the tank? If so then you should put teflon tape on the threads or some other type of sealer.
Another thing I remembered was the fitting coming off of the water heater was brass (what you slipped your elbow on) and had some crud on it. I took some 320 sandpaper and cleaned it up so it was smooth to the touch. No leaks.
Jack
 
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White teflon tape should do the trick. Make sure not to overtighten becuase those plastic fittings like to crack when over tightened which causes another leak in itself.
 
CaptMaxim said:
I had a problem with this elbow fitting leaking water at my hot water tank. Leaking so fast that it emptied my fresh water tank on my 2002 280 Sundancer in about 25 min. Thank god the bilge pumps work great!

I just replaced the fitting shown in the pic below with a brand new Sea Tech compression fitting that was supplied by the parts counter at my local Sea Ray dealer. As these parts aren't rocket science, I simply pushed the collar towards the fitting and slid the old one off of the inlet pipe on the hot water heater and then did the same and slid it off of the blue plastic water feed line to remove it. I looked at the tube and inspected it, no cracks, etc. I also inspected the inlet on the water heater and it's round, no cracks, etc.

I slid the new one on and then turned the pump on to the fresh water system and water is still spurting out. This time its coming from the fitting at the tank and not from the blue water supply hose.

Should I have wrapped anything around the inlet tube on the water heater like teflon tape or some other type of water sealant such as silicone to prevent this from happening? I followed the directions on the packaging as they are not difficult by any means however the damn thing is still leaking...

Any advice would be helpful.

fitting.jpg
Click to expand...
those fittings are design to be used without any teflon tape, but you should get two "C" clips with replacement fitting.
that "C" clip slides between white and grey part of fitting and lock water hose in correct position
 
Disregard my previous post... I didn't realize its the push type on both ends. If it was a threaded fitting connecting to the water heater teflon tape would help. But if its the compression fitting on both ends it may be best to inspect the fitting coming out of the water heater to make sure it isn't damaged/scuffed/scratched/cracked...
 
How can both ends be push type if the pipe off the heater is threaded pipe???? My heater is threaded on one end and push clip thing on the other. And yea teflon tape on the treads.

Rob
 
When you use these push on fittings, you really have to make sure that you push the hose 'all' the way into the fitting. Sometimes you may think you are in all the way, but if you try a little harder, you can get the hose to go in a little further. Then, once it bottoms out, pull it out just a little, and make sure that the gray retainer moves with the hose, so that you can put the 'C' clip inthe grove.
 
Robski97 said:
How can both ends be push type if the pipe off the heater is threaded pipe???? My heater is threaded on one end and push clip thing on the other. And yea teflon tape on the treads.

Rob
Click to expand...

Well for one.. you have a different model boat than I do.

Mine is not threaded coming out of the heater. It's a round piece of copper tubing that's about a two inches long. Hence the compression fitting that has been installed on it since the boat was new and since it just failed.

I redid the fitting with some clear water hose that's 5/8th and used metal hose clamps to clamp it to the blue fresh water tubing and to the copper tube coming out the heater.

Now my ShureFlo 12v pump won't create any suction to draw water out of the fresh water tank... Any ideas on that? It's a sealed as tight as can be and I'm not losing suction from around the modified setup that I redid.
 
According to my Sea Ray Dealer (Prince William Marine) they said they don't sell rebuild kits for the 3.0 gpm pumps... is that true. They were quick to give me a price on the replacement pump though... $112.
 
Shurflo states that some older pumps may/may not have available service parts any longer. They say call to verify.

Doug

Shurflo -
Phone:562-795-5200 or 800-854-3218
 
I went through this last night. Close all faucets on board, remove hose from tank at fitting, fill will approx. 20 oz. of water with pump turned off. Replace hose. Be absolutely positive all push connections are fully engaged! Turn on pump.

I have never had problem with the pump priming before, but last night when de-winterizing, this happened. (I replaced the water heater last week, so it may have something to do with every line on boat being bone-dry) Good Luck!
 
CaptMaxim said:
Well for one.. you have a different model boat than I do.

Mine is not threaded coming out of the heater. It's a round piece of copper tubing that's about a two inches long. Hence the compression fitting that has been installed on it since the boat was new and since it just failed.

I redid the fitting with some clear water hose that's 5/8th and used metal hose clamps to clamp it to the blue fresh water tubing and to the copper tube coming out the heater.

Now my ShureFlo 12v pump won't create any suction to draw water out of the fresh water tank... Any ideas on that? It's a sealed as tight as can be and I'm not losing suction from around the modified setup that I redid.
Click to expand...

in original design pump shouldn't draw water from heater.
system was designed for water pump to push cold water through tank!
there should be a check valve on water inlet on water heater, it will let cold water flow to heater, but prevent returning back to cold side of water system.
looks like something is not connected right way on your system
PS. check valve is build inside brass fitting on water heater.
fittings with and without check valve look the same from outside
 
Stealing thread for a second.....

The orange hose going into the hot water tank elbow fitting (the fitting is cream/white in color, looks to be plastic) on our 330DA was leaking. I literally touched it with my hand to see where the leak was and the hose popped off the tank fitting. I see a black O ring laying in the bilge under it.

Is the repair replace the O ring and then simply push the pipe (orange in color) back into the fitting? Or should I replace the orange pipe, add a new O ring on both end connections pushing the pipe into both end fittings? I have never replaced any of these fittings before and need advice on how to.

Thanks
 
mrsrobinson said:
Stealing thread for a second.....

The orange hose going into the hot water tank elbow fitting (the fitting is cream/white in color, looks to be plastic) on our 330DA was leaking. I literally touched it with my hand to see where the leak was and the hose popped off the tank fitting. I see a black O ring laying in the bilge under it.

Is the repair replace the O ring and then simply push the pipe (orange in color) back into the fitting? Or should I replace the orange pipe, add a new O ring on both end connections pushing the pipe into both end fittings? I have never replaced any of these fittings before and need advice on how to.

You can try that and it may work. Most of the fittings sea ray used had a c clip that installed on the ends of the fitting (it keeps the hose from popping out). Make sure you have not lost that.
Read my previous post in this thread about the pipe (orange in color) getting a memory.
Jack
Click to expand...
 
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mrsrobinson said:
Stealing thread for a second.....

The orange hose going into the hot water tank elbow fitting (the fitting is cream/white in color, looks to be plastic) on our 330DA was leaking. I literally touched it with my hand to see where the leak was and the hose popped off the tank fitting. I see a black O ring laying in the bilge under it.

Is the repair replace the O ring and then simply push the pipe (orange in color) back into the fitting? Or should I replace the orange pipe, add a new O ring on both end connections pushing the pipe into both end fittings? I have never replaced any of these fittings before and need advice on how to.

Thanks
Click to expand...

"O" ring is an internal part of the fitting.
you could try to reinstall it but most likely will leak.
you should replace fitting with new one.
to remove fitting - remove "c" clip, push in grey colored part of the fitting to release red (orange) hose, remove hose, do the same of other side of the fitting
 
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