- Nov 26, 2006
- 7,628
- Boat Info
- 2008 44 Sedan Bridge
- Engines
- Cummins QSC-500's
Straight Drives
A buddy made it really easy for me, so yesterday and today, I replaced 200 ft of 3/4" line and 25' chain with about 85' of 3/4" line (recycled) and 150' of chain. A friend bought bulk (heavy duty) chain which matches our windlasses. A 40DB took 250', a 310 took 150', and I took 150'.
My buddy spliced the unused 85' of my rode into 150' of new chain. My first mate and I installed it today. We put in nylon tags every 30' or so to keep track. Last year, another buddy had his line wrapped in the middle of the night by a large fishing vessel who escaped single engine into the darkness. We've all worried about getting snagged ever since. We get people who cruise by the bow's of our boats to see what's going on - they think the rode drops vertically when it hits the water. With chain, it practically will.
It'll be interesting to learn how to anchor again. My greatest observation is that people think the weight of the anchor holds the boat. With chain, the problem could be worse. One must still fully set the anchor, use appropriate scope (5:1 minimum with chain), and, take into account the fact that the chain drops straight down, but in heavy wind, will stretch out and allow your boat to back up into the island if you back in with stern anchors like we do.
I plan to set the anchor firmly at least 3 times as I back in, set the stern anchors as always, then take up some slack on the bow line to keep from moving around too much as the anchor chain sags and straightens up in changing winds.
We see people anchor for the current conditions all the time - HUGE mistake. You should always anchor for any possible upcoming conditions.
Our latest overnight catastrophy occurred on a medium sized boat with an all-chain rode. The Captain relied too heavily on the weight of the chain to hold him fast. Two of our closest friends' Sea Rays got into eachother in a squall and tore the heck out of both of them - people were affected emotionally as well.
One other concern is possible noise from the chain as it moves in and out of the gear on the front of the boat during light and moderate winds.
My buddy spliced the unused 85' of my rode into 150' of new chain. My first mate and I installed it today. We put in nylon tags every 30' or so to keep track. Last year, another buddy had his line wrapped in the middle of the night by a large fishing vessel who escaped single engine into the darkness. We've all worried about getting snagged ever since. We get people who cruise by the bow's of our boats to see what's going on - they think the rode drops vertically when it hits the water. With chain, it practically will.
It'll be interesting to learn how to anchor again. My greatest observation is that people think the weight of the anchor holds the boat. With chain, the problem could be worse. One must still fully set the anchor, use appropriate scope (5:1 minimum with chain), and, take into account the fact that the chain drops straight down, but in heavy wind, will stretch out and allow your boat to back up into the island if you back in with stern anchors like we do.
I plan to set the anchor firmly at least 3 times as I back in, set the stern anchors as always, then take up some slack on the bow line to keep from moving around too much as the anchor chain sags and straightens up in changing winds.
We see people anchor for the current conditions all the time - HUGE mistake. You should always anchor for any possible upcoming conditions.
Our latest overnight catastrophy occurred on a medium sized boat with an all-chain rode. The Captain relied too heavily on the weight of the chain to hold him fast. Two of our closest friends' Sea Rays got into eachother in a squall and tore the heck out of both of them - people were affected emotionally as well.
One other concern is possible noise from the chain as it moves in and out of the gear on the front of the boat during light and moderate winds.
Last edited:
