New Family Boat Will Not Start

garydunmire

New Member
Mar 15, 2016
9
Topeka, KS
Boat Info
1999 210 Signature pulled behind a 2011 Toyota Tundra
Engines
5.7 EFI
I just purchased a Sea Ray 210 Signature with a 5.7 EFI Merc with Alpha One with a shift and throttle lever that includes trim switch and ignition cutout switch. When I test rode it, it started and ran perfectly. The dealer winterized it and when completing this, they started it right up. I trailered it three hours home and put it in storage for a week. Then I went to start it and ran into my problem. When the key is turned on and the safety switch is in the “run” position, the dash beeps at me and the gauges go a little insane. The radio will not work or anything. However, if I turn the safety switch off, the radio and gauges work perfectly. When the switch is in this position, I attempt to turn the motor over and I head a clicking sound from the engine. I will then turn the switch to the run position and the gauges go crazy again, no radio, and the cluster begins to beep at me again. I replaced the battery and also replaced one of the relays (hella 12193611) and still the same problem. I switched he relay to the other and still the same old story. I am not sure if this problem is in the safety switch or what but it is driving me insane. I really want to put my new boat on the water but it is just a really big and heavy canoe at this point. Anyone have an idea or had this problem before?

 
I know you said it's a new battery, but can you put a meter on it and check the voltage? clicking makes me think bad battery or bad connection, and I've had car gauges go nuts when the ECU can't initialize from a low voltage at the battery.
 
I'm confused. When you say "Safety Switch" I assume (I know, I know...) that you are talking about the Kill switch that works with the lanyard, right?
If you pull the Lanyard the boat stops. Not sure how it's hooked up on a 210 Signature, but normally in the off/lanyard pulled/I've fallen out of my boat position the boat won't do anything.
No lights, no Radio, No crank, nothing.
If you are talking about what your wiring diagram calls the "Battery Switch" then yeah, it would operate like you said. The battery switch connects the starter and the tilt/trim pump and the ECU/EIM.
If it is going nuts when you flip/turn that switch then it's something on that side either pulling a bunch of current, or it's a direct short. 1 week probably wouldn't cause any corrosion, so I would suspect something is loose, a Ground point or something like that. Probably happened when they winterized it then driving it home moved things around.
you say they started it AFTER they winterized it? Normally you don't do that. Batteries have been put on chargers or have been disconnected, or both, the engine has been fogged so you don't want that to go away etc.
Odd that.
Anyway, look for something loose under the dash, and around where the battery is connected. Look at all the big connectors that come from the battery and the grounds.
 
DarkJester,

Thank you sir. My apologies. Let me clear a few things. I do mean the safety kill switch that normally has lanyard; although that part is missing. The boat still runs without it, just no lanyard to tug and kill the boat if something happens. When that switch is turned off, then the radio and all the gauges work great. When that witch is in the "run" position, then the electronic do not function properly; no radio, no gauges, etc.
I agree. I believe something came lose when I pulled it home. And please forgive me; I meant they started the engine AS they were winterizing the boat to get the antifreeze in the engine and lower unit.
I will search again for anything loose. I was unable to find anything thus far.
Thank you for your help!
 
Last edited:
Sangster,
Yes; I know it is in neutral. I checked this multiple times prior to seeking assistance. I did not want to look like a complete buffoon.
 
Strecker,
I did put a meter on it to make sure the new battery was as intended; 12.5 volts. The clicking appears to be coming from the fuel relay when trying to start.

I know you said it's a new battery, but can you put a meter on it and check the voltage? clicking makes me think bad battery or bad connection, and I've had car gauges go nuts when the ECU can't initialize from a low voltage at the battery.
 
bahamabreisus,

You mean by using a jumper? Please forgive me, but do I simply use a specific gauge wire and link the two posts on the back of the ignition switch to make this happen?

Try bypassing ignition switch itself. Possible bad switch
 
Are the battery cables connected to the correct posts?

Don't ask how I know, but many things on a boat will run with cables reversed. LOL

MM
 
12.5 volts is a little week for a fresh battery, it should be in the mid 13's. Your symptoms really point to a battery issue. Try putting the voltmeter on the battery and have someone hit the ignition switch. Does the voltage drop significantly? If so, you have found your problem.
 
Ah. Okay, that makes sense then.
No apologies necessary, just trying to visualize your malady.
I wasn't aware that you could put the Lanyard Kill switch into any position without the Lanyard...By design, you shouldn't.
Also, after a quick perusal of the wiring diagram/schematic I don't see the kill switch in the circuit, so I'm not sure how it is supposed to be hooked up.
BUT:
you do have two ground buss strips one under the dash and one on the Transom.
I would check both for loose stuff or corrosion.

Something is definitely odd...

Jester
 
Does the boat have a separate battery switch somewhere near the battery or engine compartment with a plastic on/off key? I had a 97' 210 Signature and the plastic main battery switch went bad on mine resulting in the same problems your having. Mine went bad while I was out on the water with my family. I ended up bypassing the switch altogether and taking it out of the boat.
 
Jester and everyone; it was the batter on/off switch itself. went bad somehow. I had the marina install a dual battery system but now have another question.

Ah. Okay, that makes sense then.
No apologies necessary, just trying to visualize your malady.
I wasn't aware that you could put the Lanyard Kill switch into any position without the Lanyard...By design, you shouldn't.
Also, after a quick perusal of the wiring diagram/schematic I don't see the kill switch in the circuit, so I'm not sure how it is supposed to be hooked up.
BUT:
you do have two ground buss strips one under the dash and one on the Transom.
I would check both for loose stuff or corrosion.

Something is definitely odd...

Jester
 

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