New boater 3.0 I/O Merc What Maintance is required for a well kept boat?

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New Member
Sep 22, 2009
88
North FL
Boat Info
180
Engines
3.0 Merc W/ Alpha I Outdrive
Hello all I am a new boater, I purchased a 2000 Sea Ray 180 today with a 3.0 I/O Merc. I build Sportbikes for a living so mechanics are second nature but I am looking for a little very novice info. I am looking for what services I need to complete on my new (to me) boat and the frequency of these services. I am going to treat it as I do all my toys and vehicles. When I buying something new to me I totally do all services as soon as possable so I know when the last one was done so I can start a schedule. I know what the previous owner stated on when he did what but I only trust that so far, so I start fresh. I'm sure an oil and filter change is due but the other service needed I am not really sure so I come to you all for first hand info. Also, is there anything I as a novice yet very mechanically inclinded should check on my new boat that I probably missed? I read a thread on the bilge pump stating that these may not have an auto pump the poster was told to check for a float? Can someone point me in the direction of where to find this or what to look for? If I don't have an auto how often should I turn it on? Thanks, the New Guy! Also
 
First, welcome aboard! But, please fill out your signature. Take a look at the Announcements and FAQ forum - look at the "stickies" for more clarification.

The questions you ask are, as you stated, basic questions - but good ones. With your prior knowledge I don't think you want us to bore you with step-by-step stuff.

A couple of quick suggestions: Search this site - you'll find all those answers and more.

Go to Merc's site.

Check the owner's manual for your boat. If you don't have it, you can download it from Sea Ray's site... or at least you used to be able to do it.

Turn the bilge pump on and listen - you'll find it under the engine. My '00 180BR had an auto pump. Doesn't mean yours does, though. It's now 10 years old. It could be auto via a float switch or just an "all-in-one" auto pump.

When to turn it on? I think the only way I can answer that is "when you need to":smt001

It's a good boat - it was the best selling boat in America when it was produced.
 
Yeah I don't think the bilge is as much of a factor as I thought it was going to be. I went out today for an hour or so and it only took on like half a quart of water if that when I pulled the drain plug. No big deal. I changed the plugs before I went out since it breaks up a little bit at low RPM to see if I could get out the easy way but looks like I'm going to have to clean some carb's to get her back in tip top shape the previous owner hasn't used it this year and of course no sta-bil and didn't drain the bowl before he put it up. anywho will post up more later as I get into my new toy deeper.
 
the previous owner hasn't used it this year and of course no sta-bil and didn't drain the bowl before he put it up.

I'd suggest getting all of that old fuel out of there - besides being bad there's a good chance there's water in there. Does your engine have a water/fuel separator?

Getting rid of the old fuel, filling with fresh and adding some strong doses of something like Merc's Fuel System Cleaner might be all that you need.
 
I'd suggest getting all of that old fuel out of there - besides being bad there's a good chance there's water in there. Does your engine have a water/fuel separator?

Getting rid of the old fuel, filling with fresh and adding some strong doses of something like Merc's Fuel System Cleaner might be all that you need.

I was going to try some Marvel in it first but if Merc has something designed for Marine systems I will give that a try. Is that the Quiksilver Fuel System Cleaner you're reffering to? I googled and thats what I found...
 
I was going to try some Marvel in it first but if Merc has something designed for Marine systems I will give that a try. Is that the Quiksilver Fuel System Cleaner you're reffering to? I googled and thats what I found...

Quiksilver or Merc - those names are used interchangeably and are the same product. Quiksilver is just an older product - the product is now branded Mercury.

I wouldn't say the Merc has the market cornered on this product, I just don't know enough about Marvel to say. I do know it's been around for quite a while, though.
 
Quiksilver or Merc - those names are used interchangeably and are the same product. Quiksilver is just an older product - the product is now branded Mercury.

I wouldn't say the Merc has the market cornered on this product, I just don't know enough about Marvel to say. I do know it's been around for quite a while, though.

I was showed by an old redneck Harley mechanic that lives next door to my brother we were having a time with one of my 4 wheelers and carb issues. He came over with a bottle and said open that gas cap lid son. I was like whoa that stuff isn't for gas is it? He's like just watch, pours in a bit and tells me to go ride the hell out of it for ten minutes. I did and come back and it fixed it up like a champ. Since I have used it on a few carbs and had good reviews. So I keep a bottle on the fluids shelf next to the tool box. My only thought is I don't know how well it displaces water since I believe it to be developed more for land vehicles. Which yeah they get water in the tank but nothing like a boat would in my openion. So if the Merc product has an additive to get deeper into that issue it may be a better idea. I've gotta go to west marine today to get some bimini supports so I'll grab a bottle if it appears cost effective and try it out. Whats the worst that could happen I run a tank of it out it doesn't fix it and I try the Marvel? Sounds like a reason to be on the water and run two tanks of gas out of the new boat rather than one!
 
Hey on another note I did a search for boat cleaning with hard mounted carpet. couldn't find anyone speaking on this matter... I did a deep cleaning on the interior yesterday soaked the carpet scrubed it and wet vac'd out as much as i could before I blew up the old shop vac (Don't ask the new one is in the garage but missing parts back to lowes I have to go) but it's still pretty wet today any idea on how long it's gonna take to dry out? I'm leaving the bow and cockpit covers off till it drys out... I did however figure out the bilge pump is manual!
 
You're right, the Marvel isn't going to hurt anything.

But, if the gas is bad... it's bad. Nothing's going to bring it back. That's why I think the first step would be to get it out of there. Start fresh and totally eliminate the gas as a variable.

Next, the Fuel Cleaner (even a double or triple dose) is to help clean things up on the inside of the carb. Now, maybe the Marvel will be just as good for that. If you've already got it laying around, give it a try.

Supposedly products like Startron and Marine Stabil (green) will help to breakdown water and allow it to be safely burned off. I'm not sure I completely agree with that (if the water is already in there), but then I'm not a scientist, either. However, I would rely on those products to keep "phase separation" from happening in the future.

Carpet: What you've done is about the best you can do. You can try using a stiff brush to put the nap back into the carpet, but that's long shot. I've never been very successful at it.

Crank the tongue jack up high so the water drains and keep the cover off. It should dry in hours (with sun).
 
Oh yeah I totally agree on the old fuel in this case the fuel is fresh, I got lucky he stored it past empty so we simply had to throw some fresh fuel on top. On the carpet I guess I missed it raining yesterday while i had the covers off which is why it was so wet when I got up. I put the covers back on yesterday and put one of my shop fans in the boat and let it blow over night under the covers and it's dry. I went to west marine and tried to get the fuel system cleaner but all they had was quikcleen which from what i have read is just preventative not for cleaning. I think I'm going to give the marvel a try tommorow when i take it back out and go from there. Tommorow will be my first outing over 30-45 minutes. So I will try to work out some of the kinks and have a shake down cruise so to speak.
 
Just going on some of our Master Technicians recommendations, they definitely recommend this stuff for cleaning, as well. But like I mentioned, it's not like they have the market cornered on this type of product.
 
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Oh yeah yeah they make one for cleaning it's the "Fuel System Cleaner" not the "Quikleen" Two differant products by the same company. They had the quikleen at the west marine I went to and from what I read it was for preventitive... but the other product Fuel System Cleaner is for issues like mine. They just didn't have any. I ran threw 3/4 of a tank today with 1/2 a bottle of marvel and it cleaned it up alot... there's still a bit of an issue on the severe low end and it's a little cold natured starting... but I think after a fwe more tanks of gas it'll come around...
 
Okay after the ordeal with the wreck while it was in the shop awaiting the outdive to get back from the repair facility I told the shop to rebuild the carb. Well they ran a compression check before doin that and found the actual issue to be a burnt valve from a leaking joint at the riser and manifold... Sent the head out and had it reworked with all new valves... and replaced the exhaust and riser. I've only had 4 minutes use on the boat since the fix but it was running great for 4 minutes. Left the no wake zone throttled into it and it sputtered once so i turned to come back and it shut off... Towed in by a Sea Doo Ski, got it on the trailer and found that the ignition fuse blew, replaced the fuse and backed the trailer in the water and ran it for a bit no issues, ran it at home on the earmuffs no issues. Then it got too cold to take it back out and do some good testing. Looking for a warm day when i can get it back out for a bit to make sure it's all better. Only thing I can figure on the fuse at this point is they weakened it running the compression check by jumping power at the silinoid. Atleast thats what i'm hoping for, will check into wiring and make sure nothing is grounding out when the motor heats up since alot of things got moved around pulling the head.
 

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