New 185 Owner. Few ?s

[/M3]

Just purchased my first boat 3 weeks ago which is a 2008 185 Sport with the 4.3L.

Few questions..

Is there a battery kill switch? Was this only an option? Myself as well as a former sea ray tech could not locate one. If not, is it recommended to install one?

Is a dual battery or accessory battery setup recommended if I want to crank some tunes for an hour or so while anchored?

Second bilge pump recommended? I've had a few people suggest it and mechanic mentioned to put it all the way in the back of the engine to collect anything that first one fails to pump out.

Where do you guys keep ice on board for drinks and stuff? The two storage areas in the bow are carpeted and do not appear to be snap on. Do you just bring a big cooler on board?

I took the boat out for the first time since the test drive this past weekend and looks like I banged up the prop pretty bad. Is this repairable or worth repairing?

Prop already had a few dings on it from previous owner but looks like i took a chunk out this weekend. It didn't seem to affect the performance to me at least. Ran it for a few hours to get back to marina after the incident.

Should I be looking into a stainless prop? If so, what is recommended?

I am not sure of what is on there now but based on the matrix it should be a 14 1/4x21.

Main use is cruising and may do some skiing down the line.

Prop pics below.

Thanks for any help.

 

[black magic]

Welcome! I'll take a swing at a few of your questions and I'm sure other will chime in with their answers as well.

Just purchased my first boat 3 weeks ago which is a 2008 185 Sport with the 4.3L.

Few questions..

Is there a battery kill switch? Was this only an option? Myself as well as a former sea ray tech could not locate one. If not, is it recommended to install one?

Is a dual battery or accessory battery setup recommended if I want to crank some tunes for an hour or so while anchored? YES, I have a dual bat setup and love the peace of mind knowing that I'll start up without issue.

Second bilge pump recommended? I've had a few people suggest it and mechanic mentioned to put it all the way in the back of the engine to collect anything that first one fails to pump out. I'm running the single unit. I can understand the extra security of the second one, but personally I'd pass.

Where do you guys keep ice on board for drinks and stuff? The two storage areas in the bow are carpeted and do not appear to be snap on. Do you just bring a big cooler on board? Have you looked under the rear bench seat? My 185 has two built-in coolers under the seats. If yours does not, it can be added. Just search the board.

I took the boat out for the first time since the test drive this past weekend and looks like I banged up the prop pretty bad. Is this repairable or worth repairing?

Prop already had a few dings on it from previous owner but looks like i took a chunk out this weekend. It didn't seem to affect the performance to me at least. Ran it for a few hours to get back to marina after the incident.

Should I be looking into a stainless prop? If so, what is recommended?

I am not sure of what is on there now but based on the matrix it should be a 14 1/4x21.

Main use is cruising and may do some skiing down the line.

Prop pics below.

Thanks for any help.

 

[/M3]

surprisingly there is no storage under the rear bench seats. such a waste of space. i will look into adding them.

 

[ZZ13]

I would replace the prop and keep the beat up one as your emergency on-board spare (if you don't already have one) to get you home should you need it. Since its just an emergency spare, I wouldn't spend the money to refurb it.

 

[/M3]

If I go with a SS prop this time around should I go with the same size? Is it easy to swap out or is a mechanic recommended? I am new to boats but pretty handy.

 

[MarkD]

I have the same year/engine combo as you. I have a few observations and comments.... I definately would add a battery selector switch and second battery. its piece of mind for you when on the hook cranking up the tunes... i have a simple setup with 2 batteries, and a selector switch. Others will tell you about the benefits of having an isolator and more elaborate setups, but for me a simple easy to install/troubleshoot system is for me. KISS is my motto. As for the prop, its fixable. I would have it fixed and use as a spare. Buy another for more piece of mind. They are 14 1/2 x 21 I believe. The 4 banger motors had the 19 pitch, the 4.3L motors all used 21P. I installed a second (backup pump) up a bit higher in the compartment. It was a 1500Gph unit. Nothing huge, just more piece of mind. Just install a second thru hull and route the hose properly and your good to go. I do not have coolers that are built in. That was a later option. I use a smaller cooler that holds maybe 12 cans of beer/soda and sandwiches. I use this only as a day boat, so its never a long duration trip. The front compartments are for towels, spare tools, an storage for the canvas. The engine room houses the fenders, life vests, 2 anchors etc... the floor storage is manly open or i put a water toy. Thats about it.... enjoy your new toy!!!

 

[dutchman]

Just an observation...............in the picture just above the prop, there is a 3" round insert (grey color). Isn't there supposed to be a fin attached to that???

 

[beernutz]

I agree with the previous posters about adding a second battery with a selector switch and combiner. I went with a Blue Seas 5511 switch and a Yandina combiner but there are lots of options in this area. The piece of mind you get is well worth the cost, plus its nice to be able to play music or use the battery while stopped without worrying about starting again.

SS props are very nice too, however, I think I got a better bang for my performance buck when I added Smart Tabs than when I put a four blade stainless on my boat. YMMV.

 

[/M3]

Is there a cheaper source online to order a new prop rather than dealing locally?

Also, in the current condition is it okay to use it until i find a replacement? I did not notice any performance issues on the return back to the marina.

 

[blaster]

When u you damage or ding a prop it sometimes will be left out of balance. If servere enough this can lead to excessive vibration which can damage the bearings on the prop shaft. That being said your prop doesn't look too bad. I would clean the edges with a file paint it and keep it for a spare. Stainless steel is 5x stronger than aluminun and has thinner blades which don't flex like aluminum. Stainless will give you better top end with the same pitch and will run about 100 rpm's less then the same size aluminum prop. When choosing a prop you need to consider what you want to do with the boat. If you go down in pitch you loose top end but gain acceleration but be careful not to over rev the engine. The 4.3 should be 4400 to 4800 rpm and the best all around prop will be at the top of those limits. There are many prop shops which will let you try out a prop and exchange it if undamaged. I bought a prop from Nettles propellers in Austin TX and had no trouble exchanging for a different pitch. It may take 2 or 3 tries before you find the propper prop for your application.

 

[/M3]

Thanks for the suggestions. What is involved in changing it out?

 

[blaster]

Changing out a prop is super easy on land. I would recomend you get a floating prop wrench to keep aboard your boat. They are inexpensive and really handy when you are in the water changing a prop that spun out. Other than a wrench you also should have a little grease for the shaft so the prop won't freeze on. Any kind is better than none but I use Mercury 2-4-C grease. Make sure you buy another hub assembly if you go with a new prop. This is the removable center of the prop which provides protection from high speed impact. Make sure to first install the thrust washer then slide the propeller assembly on the shaft then the tab washer and tighten the nut. Make sure it is snug and line up the tabs with the grooves on the nut and bend them in. That's it.

 

[blaster]

BTW I see you are in south Florida. Its critical to flush with fresh water every time after running in saltwater. New manifolds and risers are a very expensive repair. Not to mention other damage.

 

[blaster]

Just an observation...............in the picture just above the prop, there is a 3" round insert (grey color). Isn't there supposed to be a fin attached to that???

That round insert is a sacrificial anode. Models without power steering will have the fin to compensate for torque from the prop.

 

[Ididntdoit]

Just a reminder - a stainless prop wont be as "forgiving" if you have another incident - typically they are much more expensive to fix and can cause severe "collateral damage" to your prop shaft/gears/coupler if you hit somthing - also if you were to slip the boat for an extended period, galvanic corrosion is worse with the dissimilar metals. you have a lite boat with a good power package - have the prop fixed and use it.

 

[blaster]

I have had personal experience with high speed impact damage in i/o and outboard motors. After a certain speed it really doesn't matter what material your prop is made of either way your lower unit will be toast. Newer props have a hub assembly which will break before gears can be twisted in the lower unit. A steel prop can take shells and sand with little to no damage while an aluminum prop will be destroyed. As to the comments about corrosion sounds right but why would you buy a boat like this and keep it in saltwater. On a trailer it is acceptable to run a raw water cooled i/o but to just leave it sit all season in saltwater? Galvanic corrosion on the leg would be the least of my worries.

 

[adamgll]

Just a reminder - a stainless prop wont be as "forgiving" if you have another incident - typically they are much more expensive to fix and can cause severe "collateral damage" to your prop shaft/gears/coupler if you hit somthing - also if you were to slip the boat for an extended period, galvanic corrosion is worse with the dissimilar metals. you have a lite boat with a good power package - have the prop fixed and use it.

Why is a stainless prop with flo torq less forgiving?

 

[MarkD]

I think he's saying since SS props are made of sturdier material; when an imact occurs the stainless will stand up better to the crash and wont absorb the impact as much as aluminum. more force gets transferred to the drive and "might" cause more damage. Thats what I have always been told. One thing for sure, stainless prop and aluminum drive will be a corrosion factor when left in the salt water or even fresh for that matter...(compared to metals that are similar i.e. alum prop and drive). You will need to insure you are running good fresh sacrificial anodes.

 

[/M3]

I keep the boat in a dry storage rack so do not have to worry about that and it always gets flushed and cleaned after use. After reading about the posts regarding the damage that can occur i have decided that for now I will have the prop fixed and continue to use it and may switch to stainless down the line when I am more comfortable with the boat.

 

[blaster]

My experience with aluminum propeller repair hasnt been good. They look perfect but are never as strong as the original. For what a repair cost it is usually better to ride out the damaged prop until is has an effect on performance then just buy a new one. I went through 4 aluminun props before I switched to stainless steel. Btw if you do have impact damage insurance will usually cover the loss. That is if you have insurance.